dodgefate

Check the wires to the motor, if there is any splices, disconnect em clean em and reattach. After the motor kicks on then shuts off does the relay on the board also do the same thing? If it is drawing to many amps it might be overloading the relay and kicking it off. Also if you have everything hooked up and CARFULLY use something to turn the relay on and hold it will it run? You can try to clean the contacts in the relay like cleaning an old set of points in a car. Lastly, I know on my spa if there is a loose connection, even thought the motor is grounded from the board, between the motor housing and the board housing it will kick it off like that.

Check to see if there is voltage where the spa lights connect to the board when the switch is turned on. also, I think the harness is a three wire connector with two wires. With the new board the wires might need to be switched. just a guess though

Hi all, long time reader first time poster here. Thank you in advance for looking at my question. Background: Let me start off by saying I would love to do things the right way and replace everything. but I dont have the money to do so as when I did when I purchase my spa. Approximately 10 years ago I purchase a Dreammaker X400 spa that was a floor model (and got a great price on it). When I moved to my current residence (approximately 5 years ago), I had let it sit upside down for about a year until I could acquire a used cover for it as mine had went bad. Then about 4 years ago I finally found a semi-good cover for it, placed it on my porch and set it up. I noticed the top side controller was bad at this time and replaced it. About 2 years ago, as my replacement cover deteriorated, I began to have a problem where the pump would cycle on and off rapidly. After investigating (and having some decent knowledge in electronics) I found that the relay, on the circuit board, that controls the pump motor was overheating and causing this. To make a temporary repair to fix this, I installed a cooling fan on the circuit board housing, drilled some vent holes, and set it to pull the hot air out while pulling cold air over the relay. I also installed an exhaust fan on the outside of the access panel to help pull out hot air and pull in cold air. When I went to start it the next season the pump motor wouldn't turn and the cover was shot so I let it sit. Fast Forward to this week... I got a new cover that fits for free. I went to start it up and forgot the motor was stuck. I took the motor out and did a half asses job rebuilding it. Then the shaft seal for the wet end started to leak. Attempting to get to it was murder and inturn I ruined the impeller as it was frozen on there. I noticed the motor shaft was really rusted and pitted. I think, but am not sure that the impeller seals on the shaft seal and not the motor shaft its self. Lastly, when testing everything I noticed that the temp down button on the top side controller was being activated some how. I found that water had dripped inside the cable leading to the circuit board.... I brought the topside controller and cable inside to dry out. So here are my questions: 1. Could I get away with just buying a wet end and use it on the badly pitted shaft after I do a proper rebuild on the motor (the threads for the impeller are still spotless)? 2. Does the shaft seal for the wet end seal on the impeller some times or is it always on the shaft (it looks like it could possibly seal in the impeller If I had to guess I would say I am 90% sure of this)? 3. Could the motor relay that was overheating have been caused by the motor rusting up inside and placing a bigger load then anticipated on the relay? 4. If after I get it up and running and have the same temperature lowering button activation problem where do I start the topside controller or the circuit board (both passed a visual inspection and I did not see any burnt out components)? Thank you for reading and any help is greatly appreciated!