Malibuscott

I wanted to let you know that I changed the 30 amp GFCI in the sub panel and that seems to have solved the problem. It's been running now for 8 straight days without tripping (a new record). Just want to close out the thread in case someone was having a similar problem.

Thank you for the recommendation and useful information. Much appreciated.

Thank you. Is the current leakage test you're referring to something I've seen in other posts mentioning use of a megohmmeter? I will try and find someone familiar with the process. Does the fact that this problem is so consistent in terms of the heater actually working for a period of 3 days each time before it trips, make you more suspicious of the heater more so than the GFCI? Have you ever seen a GFCI breaker that tires out so consistently after 3 days of carrying a load? Thanks again

Well, crossing my fingers didn't work. It started up fine on Friday and was still working great last night (Sunday), but when I checked it again this morning (Monday) the 30 amp breaker was tripped again. You could almost set your watch by this problem. It works for 3 days and the 30 amp breaker for the heater trips. When the technician was out here on Friday he ran an Ohm meter to the heater and it appeared to be reading fine, but could that still be the likely source of this recurring problem? I thought I may have read in a previous post that if the heater had a small area of corrosion inside it might allow just enough water to seep in over time to cause it to trip. Is that the likely scenario? Should I stay focused on the heater even if the meter seems to show its good, or would you focus on the breaker? How likely is it that a bad breaker would trip at precisely the same time every three days? There is definitely a pattern here? Hmmm.

"Sound" advice (see what I did there). I appreciate the recommendation. I agree that it's not worth investing even a fraction of that cost into replacing the transducers (way too costly). I guess I was hoping to here that I might be able to replace some component within the existing transducers that would potentially get them working again, but no such luck. Thanks again

Thank you for the advice. Unfortunately, the technician replaced the board yesterday so i may now have two good ones and based on your expertise, it sounds like i may still have problems a few days from now. i appreciate the info and will let you know what happens...fingers crossed.

The technician that came out today ran an Ohm meter to both transducers and.....nothing. It looks like both may have gone out at the same time. Not sure how or why. They are probably too costly to replace (over $300 each). I have a dumb question for you. Is there any possible way to repair the existing transducers and get them working today or is a complete replacement or dead silence the only two options?

Had someone out today to look at it. It looks like when I installed the new heater relay board I mistakenly removed a yellow piece of tape that comes on the new board that apparently keeps the metal bracket that holds the board in place from coming in contact with the component under the tape. It looks like I may have inadvertently fried my new board. The technician believe that since the breaker tripped again with the new board in place that it was likely shot and would need to be changed out again. Is there any chance that the board may still be good? Hate to throw it away if there is a chance it's still functional.

I'm having a problem with my first generation Hot Springs Spaudio system. The system is installed in 2004 Grandee and the sound suddenly stopped working altogether. On the positive side, the amplifier seems to have power (solid green light) and it also seems to know when an Audio signal is coming from an attached audio source, as the amp will cycle from stand by to ready [red light to green light] when the audio starts. The cords appear to be properly connected and the wires to the transducers appear to be intact (I haven't traced them completely down the entire passage way, but I don't see any signs outside the conduit of the wires being chewed). This particular model of Spaudio uses the auxiliary control panel assessable from inside the sitting area of the spa to control the volume and tone of the system. By using the 4-button auxiliary panel and holding down the mode button while hitting the light + button the volume is supposed to increase volume and you use the mode and pump button to change the tone. I know there was a problem with many of the original auxiliary control panels from that era, but this spa has a replaced pad that is newer with black buttons. I don't have a brand new auxiliary panel handy to see if the current pad is the likely problem, but when I hold down the mode button and cycle either the light + (volume button) or pump button (mode), it definitely seems to at least cut-out the pump and light functions (as is supposed to do when the mode button is depressed). I just don't know enough about the panel to know if that also suggests that the volume is also probably working on the panel and the problem may rest elsewhere. In addition to having a LAN-like cable running between the main board and auxiliary panel, there is a separate grey cable that ties into a small bridge on the control board (auxiliary) for the audio system. While the connection seems tight, I'm not sure if the problem rests at the board, auxiliary pad, amp, or elsewhere??? Any recommendations as to what might be the likely cause or how best to diagnose the problem? It seems unlikely to me that both transducers would somehow fail simultaneously. I'm stumped. Any ideas? Thanks

The sub panel does contain a separate 30 amp and 20 amp breaker as you mentioned. The 30 amp side definitely controls the heater. When it trips roughly every 2.5-3 days for unknown reasons the heater turns off, but the circulation pump and ozonator continue to function (as they run off the 20 amp breaker). I don't see any outward signs of corrosion on the heater, but as the second owner I have to assume the heater may be the original one from 10 years ago and perhaps the likely source of the problem. Does the fact that it works fine for 3 days each time before tripping before tripping suggest that it migh be something else or have you seen occasions where the damage is intermittent like that. In addition to being connected into the heater relay board, I noticed that the 6kw no fault heater also has a pressure switch, control thermostat, and highlimit thermostat connection to the main control board. Is it unlikely that those other three connections could be the root of the problem? Thanks

I'm having a problem with my 2004 Hot Springs Grandee spa in which the 30 amp GFCI subpanel breaker trips every 2.5 to 3 days. Here's a little bit about my spa in terms of what I've attempted to rule out thus far and some recent maintenance I have done AFTER the problem started. I recently replaced all of the filters and installed new ozonator tubbing and a new ozone injector. I just replaced the heater relay board, as there was quite a bit of dark black soot along the upper portion of the board primarily under the metal bracket that rests across the front of the board in addition to inside cover of the IQ 2020 cover where the heater relay board is located. When I removed the old heater relay board, the plastic area behind the board appeared melted in at least one place (not the relay board itself, but the black plastic it rests up against) where the heat must have built up over time. After installing the new heater relay board, the heater once again fired up immediately (as it has done before) and after roughly 2.5 to 3 days of maintaining its set operating temperature, the 30 amp breaker trips and the heater goes off. I was under the impression that most heater related problems would likely cause a more immediate response in terms of the breaker tripping. Is it possible that ithe heater might be the likely cause and only tripping every few days? I've also checked the wiring to the GFCI. they appear tight and im not seeing anything visually with the wires to the GFCI or heater relay that would suggest a connection related problem per se. Any suggestions as to the likely cause? Thanks