KevinNH

My Tiger River Siberian (2000) is leaking in a couple of spots. Pretty much in the middle of the tub is where the first drips showed up. Early in the winter of 2014 I bumped one of the drainpipes while shoveling snow, and it started to leak there also. I have not had an opportunity to attempt a repair until now. I took the tub off the deck, and right now it is up on its side. I have removed the outer urethane in a couple of areas with a claw hammer, and then removed some of the foam with a pressure washer. Now that I can see some of the tubing, my concern is: how am I going to see where it was leaking? Unless a crack in the tubing is large, I can't imagine how I will find it. I am considering laying the tub back down, filling it and adding some dye to the water. Hopefully that would stain the foam? It leaked most when the circ pump was running, making another issue; I have no way to run the circulating pump in its current location. Someone with more electrical knowledge than I have could probably wire enough 110 to run the pump. I have new cover, new circ pump, and everything else works fine. Kind of hate to give up on it. Any advice members of the group can provide would be much appreciated. Kevin

I am finally ready to try to repair the above discussed hot tub. I have it off the deck and on its side. I have removed the outer urethane in a couple of areas with a claw hammer, and then removed some of the foam with a pressure washer. Now that I can see some of the tubing, my concern is: how am I going to see where it was leaking? Unless a crack in the tubing is large, I can't imagine how I will find it. I am considering laying the tub back down, filling it and adding some dye to the water. Hopefully that would stain the foam? It leaked most when the circ pump was running, making another issue; I have no way to run the circulating pump in its current location. Someone with more electrical knowledge than I have could probably wire enough 110 to run the pump. Any advice members of the group can provide would be much appreciated. Kevin

That would make sense. How did the repair go? Did you put the tub on its side, or jack it up and work from underneath?

I have a follow-up question re: Hot Springs/Tiger River Foam. In another post a tub owner, facing an in-foam repair was advised that the tub would weigh "a lot" more because the foam would act like a sponge and would absorb a lot of water, therefore making the tub very difficult to lift for a repair. Speaking with a tub "expert" in my area, he said that Hot Springs uses closed cell foam, rather than open cell foam like many other tub manufacturers use. He said that the closed cell foam does not absorb water like the open cell. So my question is...is he correct?, and if so will the foam still be likely to freeze if it does not absorb water? He even spoke of weep holes in the bottom of the foam? Just throwing this out there... Kevin

Did I make it clear that I would be running the tub through the winter (with the leaks) and adding water as needed? I did not plan to leave it full and off. My guess is that you understood my plan, and are suggesting that I must drain and winterize it to prevent further damage. Is that correct?

My Tiger River Siberian (2000) is leaking in a couple of spots. Pretty much in the middle of the tub is where the drips show up. The water level drops about an inch a week. It takes about five minutes to top it off. For reasons that are not important here, I cannot attempt a proper in-foam repair this fall. What are the major concerns going into winter (in NH where we will see temps as low as 20 below or maybe lower)? I know the foam is not as good an insulator when it is wet, and I have wondered about the ice build up under the deck it sits on. Is there a risk of further damage caused by the cold weather? I have tried the fix-a-leak products (two brands) and they made the leaks considerably less, but have not completely stopped them.

I am on the wrong forum. I should have been on Hot Tub/Spa chemistry. Does the same apply?

Gotcha! Thanks again!

Thank you. I will order a kit as you suggest. It is hard for a newbie to know what to do. When I take a sample to my spa store, they dip a strip in it, and slip the strip into a "reader" (??) and give me a print out telling me what to add and how much. They also sold me the test strips I have been using. Given the spa store method for checking levels, should I go back there for monthly tests?

Thank you. I don't have a bromine feeder (that I know of...), but I do have an ozonator. I will check again and add hydrogen peroxide at the rate recommended. I have a lot to learn. I have read a lot of the posts on this forum, but it is still confusing to me.

I am relatively new to hot tub chemistry, and seem to be able to get things right most of the time, but right now, my Bromine level is at the highest level on the test strip. I am using a chlorine based plan. All my other levels are great. What does this mean, and how do I deal with it?

Got it all done and the new pump is running fine. Thanks for all the help. Kevin

Hopefully these are the last questions. Finally had a minute to look at the new pump and the tub connections, hoses and wiring. First question: tub has 3 blade type connection points on the board for the wiring from the old pump. The new wire (which did come connected to the pump) has two blade type and one screw type. The green wire from the pump wire is a screw type connector. Next to the green blade connector on the tub board is an unused screw ("shared" with the next blade connector to the right). Can I just connect the new wire with the screw rather than cut it and put on a female blade connector? Second question: The new pump also came with a short (3") piece of hose. The first piece of "horizontal" water line is that same length until in goes into the first of several connectors, back-flo valve (?) and more connectors. (It would be very hard to stop the water flow on that side with pliers. All the pipe sections are only about 3" long). I suspect it would be a good idea to replace that 3" section of pipe with the new one that came with the pump?

As I mentioned, I have the pump (and heater of course) shut off until I can get to do the pump swap out. I assume that is wise? I would be concerned the pump would fail, and the heater would overheat and shut down. Am I correct, or should I leave it running? Is there an issue of possibly damaging the hoses with the pliers? I have vice grips. Same thing?

I was hoping someone told me I just had to take the pump apart, clean out junk, and off it would go, like new. I knew better. Waiting for a day off to get the new one installed. Ran the old one long enough yesterday to be sure my chlorine was okay, while it is shut down. I suppose I could just drain it, but I had just drained and cleaned the tub 3 weeks ago. I hope I can find a couple of corks. I might have to empty a couple of wine bottles. Wonder what I could do with the wine???

Sounds good. Thanks again. Kevin

The directions I have read say to disconnect the power cord from the panel and then from the pump. Attach to the new pump and then back to the panel. Is there a reason I would not just disconnect from the pump and reconnect to the new pump and not do anything with the panel connection?

Buying the OEM replacement pump. Hot Springs 74427. Not big on aftermarket items in general. thank you.

Can I get a review for Nature2 Spa Stick Mineral SanitizerI have a Tiger River Sibeian.

Thank you. I guess that is what I expected. I have read some of the installation instructions online for installing a replacement pump. Is it as easy as it sounds?

My 2000 Hot Springs Siberian circ pump is intermittantly cavatating and rumbling. It is pumping water, but is quite noisey. (Not sure if spell check is on or available, so I am sorry if my spelling is incorrect.) What should I check first?