KAT_Irish

Thanks a million for your feedback, it's most helpful. I'm glad I learned my PH lesson the hard way on the above ground pool as opposed to on the inground. My question is really about the hayward / other automated chem control systems. Duke, I've heard mixed reviews, so I appreciate your take on it.

I am planning on having an in-ground pool installed this coming spring (2013). My current plan will see the instillation of a Hayward Pro Logic (P8) system with salt generator. I am also considering installing their chemical automation system such as the Ph and ORP / sense and dispense system, and this is what I’m hoping someone can provide me with feedback on as I don’t know how effective this automated system is. I currently have an above ground chlorine pool with a copper core heater. Due to poor maintenance on my side the heater core has started to corrode. I will not be using this heater on the new pool. I will be installing a new Hayward natural gas heater which too will be controlled by the Pro Logic system. I am contemplating the chemical automation system to try and avoid similar issues with the new pool and heater; I also hope to reduce the time I need to spend maintain the water. Any feedback is greatly appreciated

Thanks for the reply. A quick question so. If I am to use SI as an indicator, what should I aim for -0.1? or do you recomend ignoring SI and just focus on TA and PH?. I am under the impression that if all is well balanced in the hot tub the SI should be close to 0, however you state differently. How do you recomend I proceed, what should I monitor to ensure well balanced water. Currently: CH 220 Alk 70 PH 7.5 CYA 40 Chl, typically between 1 and 3ppm. Thanks again

Thank you for the reply and clarity, it’s a great help. My CYA is high, according to my dealer, because of a cleaner I used in the tub to rid of a thick grease type stain they occurred above the waterline on initial fill and before the tub was used. One employee recommended the cleaner; however after using it, another told me it was not a good idea. TDS now at 1,200 and CYA is at 40 as a result. I don’t mind using the lithium for now as opposed to bleach. I think I’ll continue on this path for the moment. My PH now seems to have stabilized at about 7.5 however I do have some light scaling in the tub (fine sandy feeling on walls and seats that easily rubs off). I assume this is due to too high Calcium Hardness (CH) approx. 220. I need to drain my tub this weekend to bring down my TDS (before the really cold / freezing weather sets in – Canada), I anticipate this will also bring down my CH. When I refill I think I’ll aim start out with the following and see if I can keep my PH stabilized around 7.5: CH: 150; Al: 80; PH 7.5; and, CYA 40. Thanks again for your invaluable input.

I understand that Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) and Saturation Index (SI) provide good indicators of the overall health and quality of your spa water. What I would like to know is: 1- Is there a way of measuring / determining TDS at home? I can't seem to find an affordable solution to accomplish this. 2- Can you reduce TDS without draining your spa? 3- Do TDS have a significant impact on your SI? After approximately 2 weeks of modest use (1 hour per day on average) my readings are as follows: TDS approx. 600ppm (according to water test lab at spa store) SI approx. -0.05 (very happy with this

Confusion has set in so I apologise as this question has been asked and answered many different ways, however I’ll raise my concern regardless. I have my spa 4 weeks as of Dec 1 2012 I’m using a Taylor K-2006 test kit and my results are consistent with those from my dealer who tests my water. I follow my dealers’ instructions for adding chemicals to the water to control PH, however drift up always occurs in short order. My PH continually rises quite a bit above 8.0, based on what it can take to get the PH to below 8 I’m guessing I may be as high as 8.4 at times. Recently I noticed what I’m guessing is scale buildup in the spa. Dry powered feeling above and below the water line on spa surfaces that will rub off. The water however is crystal clear. I want to ensure my PH remains between 7.2 and 7.8. From what I’ve read on this forum it’s recommended that I lower my TA to a point below which my spa manufacturer and retailer recommend. I’ve been told that damage resulting from a TA below 100 is not covered under warranty. I’ve also read that a low TA can cause damage (corrosion) to the spa (acrylic) surface and jets (stainless, plastics and whatever) so the notion of lowering my TA below 100 scares me. I have a swimming pool with a copper core heater. I have had corrosion issues with the heater and I don’t want to head down the same path with my new spa. I’m just making note of a bad experience with no real relevance to the spa issue (asides from me being a dumb ass). My numbers typically are as follows for a 2,000L (528 gallon) tub at 101oF and I’m using Lithium as my sanitizer: PH: 8.0+ TA: 100 Calcium / Hardness: 110 CY: 30 Sanitizer level is usually between 1 and 3 as I also use a UV system Combined chlorine recently measured 0.8 TDS 600 I recently read that it would help keep my PH in check if I increase my calcium hardness to about 200ppm and adjust my TA to about 120. Can anyone please shed some light on my concern about low TA, provide insight on the recommendation that I was provided with respect to hardness, and or just point me in the right direction. Very much appreciated