rjordan390

Thanks, There is a pool sales store close to me. I'll take a look at the oval pools with supports. I have an area that would be perfect for an oval pool. I'll try and convince my nephew to view that possibility. But he will have the final say as he will be paying for it.

My nephew in law put in a 14 foot round pool last season and for next season wants to put in a bigger one. We discussed placing an oval shaped pool between two sheds. Problem is that, he was told by fellow employees that oval pools are more difficult to maintain. I believe that is bad advice. What are the pro's and con's of each?

Will this type of Filter (which I believe is a micron filter) collect algae and hold it on the pleats. I have what appears to be light brown algae on the bottom of my pool which I think is dead algae. I attached a homemade vacumn to the suction side of my pump to collect it but I wonder if all i am doing is recirculating it. I also syphoned some of this into a 5 gallon bucket and let it sit in the sun for a few hours and checked it later. I could not see any light brown algae; just dirt. Your opinon please?

Thank you, I'll have to be careful about the searches I do on pool subjects.

It appears that 10 ppm free chlorine is the standard for shocking pools. For instance, if the combined chlorine tests at 0.5, then 10 times that amount is 5 ppm. So why add additional shock treatment to bring it to 10 ppm free chlorine? The shock instructions on the HTH product do not appear to account for the amount of CC and the proper dose and I did not put enough in during the evening and the combined chlorine increased. When I tested the next day, my CC went to 2 ppm to 2.5 ppm, testing twice. So my original CC must have been 1.5 ppm. Knowing that the family members will want to use the pool later that day, I shocked again at 10 am at 30 ppm; 5 ppm over what was needed because it was a sunny day. The result at 3 pm was 3 ppm FC and 0.5 CC. Much better then what it was. Now I feel confident that when I shock treat in the evening, most of the CC will be gone when I use the following formula: Example only; substitute your own volume & math figures. (a) 2400 gals. X 8.34 (weight of 1 gal.) = 20,016 lbs. of water. ( 1,000,000 / 20,016 = 49.96 ppm that 1 lb. of chemical will represent in the pool. © Take your combined chlorine result (say 0.5 ppm) and multiply by 10 = 5 ppm and divide that by 49.96 = .0.10 lbs. This tells you how many lbs. of available chlorine you will need to get to 5 ppm. (d) Most if not all package shock treatments have less then 100% available chlorine. So you need to divide the lbs. needed by the amount of percentage available chlorine stated on the package. (example) if 0.10 lbs are needed; / by 52% = 0.19 lbs. or 3.07 ounces. This will give you the final result that you must weigh out of the package. If need be, you can convert lbs to ounces by X 16. Thoughts anyone?

Thanks, Will do as you suggest. I'll have to look into how to shock with ordinary bleach.

Thanks Legsonearth & Waterbear, This is helping my knowledge of pool care.

Thanks, Right now, my setup does not support a skimmer ( I think). Its a small 14 foot diameter Intex pool. I have a cheap pump with a large cartridge in it (about 4 inch by 8 inch). But next season, I am stepping up to a larger pool about 28 feet long by 14 to 16 foot wide and this will probally have the means to allow for a skimmer. The sock idea has me wondering because the granules are an acid. Won't the sock disintergrate after a short use? I have a few fine mesh bags that I could use and place the bag in a floater and then remove it when the family wants to use the pool. But I will only do this if I cannot get my cya values up to where they should be. I just started to use the trichlor tablets. My most recent test result for cya indicated less then 30 ppm using Taylors K 2006 cya test. I am going to wait a week and test again before I use cya granules.

I purchased this product thinking I may need it dispite my choice of using trichlor tablets. But I been advised that it will take almost a week before the granuales dissolve. Being that it is an acid, how does one deal with the problem of these granuales getting stuck on their feet and not knowing it. Does this product come in liquid form?

It appears my pool water is close to being where it should be. A little more fine tuning and I think I'll be there. pH is 7.4, FC is 4.0 ppm, CC is 0.5, Alk is 140 ppm, CH is 170 ppm, its low but I am working on it and Saturation index is 0.00. The CYA appears less then 30 ppm, which might be understandable because I shocked the pool a few days ago. The black dot did not disappear while tittrating but increased in size. The test does not read lower then 30 ppm. I am using 1 and 3 inch tablets that have stabilizer. The 1 inch tablets were placed in my filter and the 3 inch tablet was placed in a floater. After my FC test result of 4.0 & CC result of 0.5, I removed the floater. Comments appreciated.

Thank you, Very good information.

Thanks, I assume CC stands for Combined Chlorine. I have to do a search to see exactly what that means.

I am awaiting my Tayor test kit K-2600. Until then, I would like to hear if there is a preferance to the time interval between adding chemicals for the following: pH, Sanitizing, Alkalinity and Cya. The manufacturer of the Cya suggests when using its product to wait 48 hours before adding chlorine. Do you agree? What about the other parameters? Is there a recommended time interval between applications. I live in the northeast and my tapwater pH is 7.15, General Hardness is 120 ppm and Carbonate hardness is 40 ppm. I think the general hardness needs to be converted to alkalinity but I do not know the formula.

Can someone clearify what test kits are really testing. I have the Taylor FAS-DPD pool kit K-2006 pn order. When I test for calcium, am I testing for elementary calcium or calcium as calcium carbonate? The basic chlorine test kit that I have now only tests for total chlorine. Will the Taylor kit give me both a total chlorine and free chlorine as a result?

Thanks, I'll purchase an alkalinity test kit and perhaps a calcium kit because I am getting a much bigger pool for next season; so I will be looking at something about 22 to 25 feet long by about 14 feet wide be it square or oval. This will be an above ground pool. I and my nephew in-law have already determine that the pump is junk. So acquiring needed materials now helps the pocketbook later. We are going to stay with our existing pool until the season is over. I'll check out the water balance threads too.