tony357
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Posts
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Posts posted by tony357
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I have been using spa pure, and they last about 3 weeks..
Now that i read the bottle it says slow dissolving brominating tablets..
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That is the same floater i use..
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I use a floater, we just put it on the picnic table when we use the spa.. simple as that.. you can always get a board or something to set it on..
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grind back at least 4 in on each side of the crack..and at the ends, drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it from continuing.
just grind that foam off.
An epoxy resin would be best to use it will bond to any resins since you do not know what was used to originally build it..
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In that 1st pic it looks like you have a snail crawling around in your hot tub..It appears you have it boxed in, Good job....
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WOW, I aplaud the dealer also.. if he is willing to help and you can afford to be able to take his offer that would be your best bet at this point, just make sure the replacement is from a reputable co, that will be around for a while..
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You're looking for medical advise for your child on an anonymous internet message board?
Basic rule of thumb is, if the rash develops before 24 hours it's a chemical sensitivity/allergy, after 24 hours is bacterial.
Agreed..to the 1st part..
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Me too, I go solo alot been married 26 years but i can use the calm time...
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Jimkw mine has a lounge seat and it is my favorite, very relaxing and the jets are right at my shoulders and neck, good stuff..
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Those are diagnostic codes, try looking them up in the manual if you have it, if not google them..
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not quite sure of your wiring for that heater, but you could be running it on 110 with one leg disconnected..
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remove the hose from the control panel have someone push the switch as you feel for air pressure, it is a light amount of air maybe a couple inch pounds..
Also you can check the switch for an air leak, if you depress the switch and hold your finger over the end of the hose it should stay depressed, if the button works its way back up you have a leak in either the hose or switch.
here is a pic of air switch.
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Well it looks great, what did the project cost you?
just under 200.00 purchased everything from homedepot all in one shot. The most expesive product was the 1-1/4 angle trim at 2.11 ft, totaled 63.00 just for the trim..
One thing i did do to avoid capturing condensation was making the cover 1.5 inches larger than the spa's outside diameter to try and keep the wood from being saturated by condensation. relying on the insulation to hold in the heat.
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Should get a few months out of it till it starts soaking up moisture and getting excessively heavy.
I have been thinking about that, i have been toying with the idea of shrink wrapping the inside. will have to test out on left over foam to see the affects of the heat of shrink wrapping..
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Used tongue and groove cedar 1/4 thick and 2 plies of R-5 foam insulation.
glued the foam together with loctite PL300 foam board adhesive and then glued the foam to the cedar, trimmed the top and screwed and glued the trim to the cedar and then stained it. Also stained the spa with the same stain to match.
Tony.
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New to the forum, reading through i learned a few things on this forum.
I have a princess hydra-spa purchased new in 2003. I have not used it for several years and reopened it this year. I did have to replace the control unit so i replaced it with a universal hydroquip control unit.
Today i will be making a new hard cover and staining the wood around the hot tub.
Tony.
New control unit..
Floating Bromide Versus Only Adding Bromine After Use
in Hot Tub Water Chemistry
Posted
Keep your floater..