sking43

That is part, if not all the problem. Your current meter is rated to 225K btus. Your pool heater alone requires 400K. What your looking for on the sticker is the minimum inlet pressure in WC. Your water column cannot fall below that number while the heater is firing. Well, the inlet pressure when the heater attempts to fire is equal to what the sticker says it is supposed to be..... 2.5 inches water column. At this point I will wait for the new gas meter to see if that really is the limitation. As I posted earlier..... current home has 3 X 100k BTU furnaces, + 80k BTU water heater, + kitchen gas range that at certain times in the winter all fire concurrently without any apparent problem. If there is a way I can upload video here, you could see what I measured with my rudimentary manometer....... Anyway I do appreciate the input and comments!

Here is your post... http://www.poolspafo...ndpost&p=151938 Thank you Pool Clown, apparently there are some nuances to navigating this place that I need to learn ! I will go take the cover off the burner box again and look more closely at the burner directly beneath the igniter to be absolutely sure it is not clogged in some way.

Hi Scott....... line from the meter to the heater (hey, that rhymes!) is 1.5 inch diameter yellow polysomething (probably polyurethane I would think), and about 15 to 20 linear feet if I could the bends. It is pretty close to the heater in other words. I did visually inspect the gas orifices, no obvious sign of being clogged. If there is something else I should be looking for please let me know. There is an orifice in the gas valve and it has a "NG" sticker on it for natural gas. The gas meter says "225" on it, PSE&G will come replace it with a larger one in 3 weeks. I am suspicious that the pressure setting on the current meter is just at 7.5 inches of water, and the heater may want slightly higher than that (despite the sticker on the heater manifold cover that says it requires 2.5 inches water column.... which is exactly what I measured when the unit attempted to light). regards Steve

Brand spanking new Jandy Zodiac LXi heater, 400 k BTU/hr will not light. Help! On initial system start up the pool company guy said “didn’t anyone tell you that you needed to increase the size of the gas meter?”. My current home has 3 X 100k BTU furnaces that all run simultaneously in the winter, plus a 6 burner gas range to I have done some troubleshooting while I wait for the gas company to install the next size larger meter (in about 3 weeks). Here’s what I can tell you – FIRST – I am mechanically inclined although my degree in chemical engineering may reverse any advantage that may have due to hubris. Gas supply pressure to the heater is 7.5 inches water column, measured at the crud trap and also at the test port on the inlet side of the gas valve. Heater is correctly wired at 240 VAC supply. Water flow valve works correctly (open circuit with no flow, closed circuit with flow). Igniter glows red when system attempts to fire (I opened manifold box, took out igniter and watched to see what happened with gas supply “off”, of course…. I did notice that the hex nuts on the igniter were just barely finger tight – really no torque on them at all. I applied a careful amount of torque when reinstalling the igniter.) There are no obvious spider nests or other insects that have taken up residence in the burner throats. Gas valve works; solenoid clicks open about 30 or so seconds into the firing sequence, stays open for 6 or 7 seconds, then closes. System cycles 3 times before shut down as it is supposed to do. Gas pressure at burner manifold is 2.5 inches water column when the gas valve opens – exactly what the sticker on the manifold says it is supposed to be. Burner throat pressure is 1.0 inches water column when forced draft fan is running. About the only thing I did not yet check carefully are the wires to/from the flame rollout sensor – reading some other posts here I see someone had a problem where the wires to this sensor were cracked and correcting that got the heater to fire. Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated !

This is a test. I tried to write about 500 words here yesterday, but it looks like I did something wrong and it did not post........ So if this works I'll enter it again

Greetings to all, I have a brand-spanking-new Jandy Zodiac LXi 400,000 BTU/HR heater that has never worked. Pool installation company says "gas meter too small" but I have my doubts as there are 3 X 100,000 BTU/Hr furnaces in the house plus a 6 burner gas range and they have all been "on" in winter months. I am an engineer by training so you can consider me to be "handy". Here is what I know so far: - correct 240VAC power to the unit. - water switch operates correctly (closes when there is water flow, open when no flow - yes, I have an ohm meter and know how to use it.....) - Gas line pressure 7.5 inches water column into the heater and at inlet to gas valve - Manifold pressure 2.5 inches when gas valve opens and heater attempts to light (this is the required pressure according to the sticker on the air plenum cover) - induces draft fan (blower works fine, pressure in the burner throat is the required 1.0 inches of water column) - ignitor glows red hot when control calls for it to attempt to light. No visible evidence of damage on ignitor surface (some high temperature discoloring but no white corrosion or evidence of a crack) - start sequence - blower comes on (seems to have one speed, I read in earlier posts where perhaps some other models have a blower with more than 1 speed); about 30 seconds later you can hear the gas valve solenoid open (and confirmed by manometer using the pressure tap on the burner side of the valve), valve stays open for about 6 or 7 seconds, the flame never lights; then unit cycles 3 times until it kicks out with the ignition alarm code on the LCD. When the gas valve opens, you can smell the methyl mercaptan so I know there is gas getting in to the combustion chamber. But no flame, not never (so far). I looked inside the burner tubes and did not see any evidence of spider webs or insects. The only thing I have not done after reading some posts here, is to inspect the flame sensor wiring. When I checked the ignitor I was a little surprised to find the hex nuts finger tight - it took just a turn of my fingers to get them off, so the ignitor did not seem to be very snug on its mount. Anyway after I put it back in after checking it, I did tighten the nuts carefully (not so tight as to crack the ignitor base) and still the until did not fire. Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated as I wait for the gas company to install a new meter in about 3 weeks..... which I do not really expect to solve the problem.