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abc123

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Posts posted by abc123

  2. Pump Leak , Hot Spring Classic

    in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas

    Posted

    Classic

    Model F

    Serial # F461386

    Built in the last quarter of 1996

    Dedicated 20amp to the panel

    Part number 13 on the picture of the pump ( vclamp) is pushing out water. Not constant just on off on off. The jets work. I just noticed the water level went down 4 inches rather quick so I went looking for a leak.

    I want to know if this sounds like a fix by changing O-rings or is this a larger problem?

    Thanks for your time!

  8. Hot Spring Wall Fitting Nut

    in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas

    Posted

    Classic
    Model F
    Serial # F461386
    Built in the last quarter of 1996
    Dedicated 20amp to the panel

    While getting another part I decided to replace the wall fitting nut on my hot tub since the tab was broken off. I am unsure if it takes a special tool to remove since it has holes in it or not. I tried unscrewing with just my hand and that's not going to work. I haven't brought any tools into the picture yet not wanting to break it.

    Any tips on how to get this off?

  10. Hot Spring Air Control Valve Leaking Water

    in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas

    Posted

    Classic
    Model F
    Serial # F461386
    Built in the last quarter of 1996
    Dedicated 20amp to the panel

    The knob area on top of the hot tub is leaking water. It seems to be coming from under the bezel. I see a blow up of all the parts inside, Would I be able to find out what the most likely part or parts need to be changed?

    This is the big knob on the same side as the control panel of the hot tub.

    Thanks in advance for any help.

  13. Hot Springs Classic F Hot Tub - Time To Start Saving Money For A Heater?

    in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas

    Posted

    You don't need a heater, just a new thermistor O-ring, or possibly a new heater-body, if the old one has cracked along the seam that runs the length of the heater body- across both thermistor threads.

    I got my O-Ring yesterday. $1 with shipping! :) Now would I want to remove the heater from the hot tub to change it? I guess the removal of the thermistor will give the water an escape route. I read that you can use a cork to close up the hose for minimal water loss. I ordered both O-Rings thinking that the other is the same age. Should I go ahead and change them both, or wait for a leak. Any tips on how to go about this? The chemicals are perfect now, with the help of this website! I am probably close to empty and refill time if that would be best.

  14. Hot Springs Classic F Hot Tub - No Jets

    in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas

    Posted

    I think that is the seal cup. It is a copper cup which goes in behind the seal - inside the very bowels of the pump - and helps to dissipate heat if the pump is run dry or with only a small amount of water going through. You can check - put some of the pieces into ketchup or salsa. Let them soak a few hours, and pull them out and wash them. If they look like copper - it is because they are!

    I soaked my pieces in ketchup last night :) they are the color of copper without the shine, my friend says they are copper. They are already getting the green back on them.

    You can run the pump for years without that heat sink - as long as you don't let it run dry. If the seal does begin to leak, you will want to rebuild or replace the pump. Watch it closely, because as was posted above, if the seal leaks, it tends to flood the motor and damage the bearing, if not the whole motor.

    If you do choose to rebuild the pump, the new seal plate eliminates the copper piece, and comes with a new seal design which is much better. It looks like it is leaking, or has leaked in the past. That 'foot' had to be rusted away by something, and the pump shows a 'calcium beard' which is a trail left behind by leaking tub water. Watch it as you run the jets and see if anything is getting wet around the dish rack.

    I did turn the jets on and it is leaking a little. We have decided to go ahead and rebuild the pump. Is there such a thing as a rebuild kit for this pump? Davidpsalt told me above to also check the bearing while I have it apart, and I am guessing a few seals, and whats this part that used to be copper called? is that called a seal plate? Is there a place that gives me a list if there is no kit?

    Your heater has been discontinued - as well as the housing. If that fails, you can very easily replace it with a new heater which is the same design as they put into the brand new spas. Same temp probes go right in, and it has a PDR feature which resets by simply shutting down the power for a minute or two.

    I saw the new heater when I first started searching my problem. I think you have to decide before getting a heater in the future if needed that you will have to decide then if you want 110 or 230 (I thought that was 220 but I checked my paper :) ) We dont want to make that choice yet, we are still thinking of changing it over.

    The new heater resets with powering down for a min or two... is that not what I did by unplugging when the water was cold and plugging it back in on my old heater?

  16. Hot Springs Classic F Hot Tub - Time To Start Saving Money For A Heater?

    in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas

    Posted

    Thanks for getting back to me so fast !

    I hear no clicking and the body of my heater seems ok, I did happen to try and check that since I read about one splitting at the seam. I will however go check that better after wiping it off so I can see under there. My LED is not flashing.

    Now do I have to find an O-Ring for this heater, or can I run to home depot and get one? I see one online for this heater for .68

  17. Hot Springs Classic F Hot Tub - Time To Start Saving Money For A Heater?

    in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas

    Posted

    I had been noticing this month that the control panel is getting a little harder to use, normally I go out and push the button for ten mins and let it run so I can test my water. Lately I have been having to press either of the buttons a few times before they respond. Four days ago I went out and my water was almost warm, I left it alone after unplugging the power, and searched Google for Classic F Jets work but no heat. I ran into something about the circulation pump, and I had forgotten to see if the water was circulating. I went out yesterday plugged it back in and saw the water circulating. Left it plugged in this time. Today I found something about the Hi-Limit Thermistor, so I went out to find it and see if I could see anything that looks odd about it so I might know if its having a problem. I noticed a white crust on the outside of one of the Thermistor, So I took a picture of it. I am not sure what one is what so the one with the white crust on it is the one at the far end. I also noticed that the plugs on the other end of the wire are very loose and floppy. Heater going bad or Thermistor going bad? After I took the photo I decided to feel the water and it is warm again. Did I reset something by unplugging ?

    Also this link has a photo of the other side of the wires, I see bare covered wires on one of the plugs does this need to be addressed? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/itsmeab4u/Hot%20Tub/IMG_20120727_144750.jpg

    IMG_20120727_144636.jpg

  18. Fixed hot tub and now getting water chemistry straight!

    in Hot Tub Water Chemistry

    Posted

    OK I tested it again today after running it with the top off again.

    Used a 10 ml sample and 15 drops so I did this:

    .5 x 15 = 7.5 ppm

    7.5 ppm x 2.25 = 16.875 does that number get rounded up?

    I will run it again tomorrow with the lid off. the floater is out.

    I think what happened is it was low and I started the floater (two tabs) almost closed, first little while I turned it more open slow. My number was falling and I went out one day all my two tabs in the floater were gone. So I put more tabs in about 5 or 6 of them and I opened it more than just the little bit I had been doing. Then there was a personal emergency for a few days, so it got ignored. Next time I tested it it was high. That's my best guess of what happened :)

  19. Fixed hot tub and now getting water chemistry straight!

    in Hot Tub Water Chemistry

    Posted

    Chlorine (Free, Combined) Test

    1. Rinse and fill large comparator tube to desired mark

    with water to be tested.

    NOTE: For 1 drop = 0.2 ppm, use 25 mL sample.

    For 1 drop = 0.5 ppm, use 10 mL sample.

    2. Add 2 dippers R-0870. Swirl until dissolved. If free

    chlorine is present, sample will turn pink.

    NOTE: If pink color disappears, add R-0870 until

    color turns pink.

    3. Add R-0871 dropwise, swirling and counting after

    each drop, until color changes from pink to

    colorless.

    4. Multiply drops in Step 3 by drop equivalence (Step 1).

    Record as parts per million (ppm) free chlorine (FC).

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    I used 10ml sample

    My drops in step 3 were 25 so I don't count the last drop and multiply 24 by 2.25?

  23. Fixed hot tub and now getting water chemistry straight!

    in Hot Tub Water Chemistry

    Posted

    I just watched a movie on how to do it so I need to do that over, it looked purple to me so I kept going till it looked blue to me. I see in the movie now i should have counted till purple. So I am going to redo it in the am since i don't remember what number i was on when i thought it was purple.

    How do I like it? At first i was a little scared of the beast :) but I will get the hang of it i'm sure, like purple to me means blue :)

    Ask me how I like it next month, takes me a while to get used to new things!

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