singletrack

I have worked on coast spa's for 8 years with the GECKO-S class pac's. what you have is the little red light of death, the ones I worked on the hi-limit sensor was a foam strip with some metal type tape that was hard wired to the board. you cant test or replace it the only thing to do is change it. I took the coast spa factory course and had the change to ask the GECKO rep herself when she gave that part of the course and her answer was to change the board We too encounter this often, the high limit "strip" can be bought seperately. De solder the old one and solder a new one. OK, I can do that. Worth a shot, eh? Any idea where I can buy the strip?

I would take the pump out and test it for operation. May of toasted the pump. what brand electronics?, some balboa boards have a red light thats normal, but some geko boards have a red light that means the high limit is tripped, or OH Its a Gecko S class board. The red LED flashes then turns off. I pulled the connector for the pump, its a Flowmaster XPE2. There are 4 wires, red, green black and white. Could I just try powering the pump with an external 120V AC source? Not sure which wire is which though...

I have a 8 or 9 year old Nordic Crown II. I didn't realize it had developed a leak at one of the heater unions, and came home to a tub 2/3rds full and powered down. The water was too low to reach the filter intake, so I assume it pumped til dry then something kicked in to shut it off... I refilled the tub but it won't turn back on. I hear a click of a relay, then nothing. I opened the spa pak, its a Gecko S class, and checked the fuses, they seem OK. When I flip the circuit breaker on, a red LED flashes on the circuit board then again, nothing. There doesn't appear to be any obvious signs of burnt electronics. I did check the pump shaft to see that it still spins freely, one tech I spoke to thought there may be ice in the pump housing. It's been cold here, but barely freezing, I don't think that's the issue. Any suggestions to troubleshoot?