WuhWuzzat

In regards to contractors: Good ain't cheap...and cheap ain't good.

Have you checked out the 200 series from Jacuzzi? I was in the same situation as you a year ago. Had the cash and desperately wanted a tub, but did't want to make a hasty decision that I might later regret. We realized after some wet tests that we did not want a lounger. The J-365 had just about everything we wanted, but like you, we were not thrilled with the foot dome...athough we did enjoy foot jets. We seriously considered the Hot Spot Rhythm, but the lack of a continous circ pump (a must have), the open filter design, seating/jetting configuration and the overall aesthetics and fit and finish of the product was not impressive. We ended purchasing a the J-280 and could not be more pleased. The countour of the seats and jetting is very well designed and the depth of the seats vary too which is nice. It's got a 3 jet, semi foot dome thats conveniently tucked away beneath the filter housing that doesnt consume valuable floor space. The hydrotherapy was perfect for us and we actually like it better than most others that had supposedly better engineered jets with fancy trademarked names. We found that it had many of the mid-to upper end features but at a enrty level price point. Which allowed us to get 1 of the largest tubs available from a quality, reputable manufacturer. Often its just my wife and I, but sometimes theres 4 or 5 of us and it's nice to have the room to accomodate.

The full load amperage draw may be 45A, but the surge current when the motors are 1st energized needs to be considered and I doubt a 50A breaker would support that.

Wow....

Looking to purchase a SWCG for my 2011 Jacuzzi J-280 to alleviate/lessen the daily manual chlorine dosing. Does anyone have any familiarity/experience with any of the systems out there? Considering this unit: http://www.shop.controlomatic.com/ChlorMaker-Inline-Spa-Saltwater-System-Chlorine-Generator-ChlorMaker.htm Any feedback/advice is greatly appreciated.

How did you know when the unit went bad?

Perhaps it's too late, but adding thr 24hr circulation pump to that tub is wise a investment. I purchased a J-280 in November and I was able to have the dealer throw it during negotiations. Along with the obvious benefit of contiunous filtration , the circ pump motor consumes very little power and eliminates the need for the larger pumps to run during a call for heat. I believe the circ pump can be installed after taking delivery.

It's been almost 4 months since I received my J-280. I've adopted a relatively painless and effective bleach dosing method based on recommendations from the knowledgable members here. I purchased the tub new and it's been a pretty routine and uneventful break-in period with no algae outbreaks, cloudy water or otherwise. However, the time has come to change my water. My plan was to superchlorinate the tub similar to the decontam method which I did after taking delivery, but I'm wondering if using Spa System Flush might be more effective this time around. From what I understand you cannot do both treatments to the same body of water and I'd rather not drain + refill twice. So what's the verdict? Thanks.

I think your example of 11-12 years is extreme, but my concern is not over losing a year or so out of the life of my cover. It's serious degradation I'm concerned with. Thanks for the feedback. A couple minutes seems reasonable. I had been just adding bleach and closing it up immediately. I think I'll try your aproach.

Thanks for the reply chem geek, although I was afraid you would say that. My main concern, as you mentioned, is the potential degradation of these expensive hot tub covers. In a perfect world I would certainly leave the cover open for plenty of time to air out the outgassing of the chloramine by-products, but the reality is I live in a cold weather climate(New England) and it kills me to leave that cover open any longer than absolutely necessary. Im in the tub every evening, so watching dollar bills float outta my tub 20 mins longer each night after adding bleach adds up quickly. Perhaps this is one of those pay me now(heat loss with cover open) or pay me later(new cover every 2 years)

Are you using The Pool Calculator to estimate the correct dosage of chemicals?

I remember reading in these forums that CYA levels will slowly decline for reasons other than dilution. There was a basic rule of thumb for this loss per month. Waterbear? Chem Geek??

I'll preface this by saying I'm not familiar with the D1 Nautilus, but if it's similar to other tubs from the major manufacturers it most likey has a (1) single speed and (1) dual speed jet pump. The 50 amp configuration will allow you to operate both pumps at the same time, but WITHOUT the heater. The 60 amp will allow you run everything simultaneously.

To add to that...what is an acceptable level of CC? I know for a pool .5 or less, but is it the same for a spa?

So if I'm understanding you correctly, just adding the chlorine and closing the cover immediately is fine?

I've read that it's recommended here to add your sanatizer after exiting the tub(I use chlorine). Should one leave the cover open and pumps circulating for a while or is safe to just add the chemicals and close her up? Does having a 24-hr circ pump have any impact on this? This is in to regards to normal maintenance level additions after a soak - NOT shocking.

For a new tub/fresh fill could one use the proper dosage of granulated CYA in lieu of Dichlor and begin using 6% bleach to chlorinate immediately? Seeing as I already have the bleach and CYA on hand, seems like this method would be easier or am I missing something here?

I spoke with my spa dealer this afternoon and they do carry a metal removing pre-filter that attaches to your hose. They assured me that they will include 1 upon delivery of the tub. Here's another scenario I'd appreciate some input on: I have an IG pool that's closed up for the season with a loop-loc mesh safety cover. I need lower the water level a bit before the freeze sets in and I'm wondering if it's advisable to use the pool water for my flush/decon? The only potential issue I see is with the salt content which I estimate to be 2000-2500ppm. Would this level of salinity adversely effect any of the tubs components in the short time it is cycled through?

Thanks for the replies. Looks like I will be decontaminating the tub. Gman, you mention using a pre-filter "stick". I assume this is some sort of mechanical filtering device that threads onto the outlet of your hose. Where can I purchase one of these and is there a certain type/brand you recommend?

Is this necessary? It seems most do not, but after reading about the issues a member was having in the other thread I'm wondering if its just good insurance. Or perhaps as WB suggested, just raising the FC to an elevated level would be sufficient? Opinions on the matter would be greatly appreciated. Tub should be here this week!

Wow!! How about count-HACK-ula?

Yep!! A three year old thread bump This messageboard is loaded with informative advice and knowledge, but not so much when it comes to pics...and I think EVERYONE enjoys veiwing shots of other's tubs/set-ups. So, let's see 'em.

I just went through the frustrating selection process myself and I certainly feel your pain. My suggestion would to be to narrow the selection process down by eliminating any dealer(s) that you don't feel comfortable with for whatever reason. Keep in mind that a dealer's ability to provide qualiity service after the sale is a major consideration and argubly more important that brand selection itself. Next, I would decide which product lines fit your budget. Each manufacturer typically has offerings at 3 different price points all with varying levels of options,features and warranty length. Jacuzzi = 200/300/400 series. Sundance = 680/780/880 series. Hot Springs/Limelight/Hotspot. From there you can finalize it to a handful of models depending on personal preferences such as size, lounge or no lounge etc. Then the fun part...Wet Testing!!

I give this thread about 4 replies before it somehow degrades into a debate over the value/benefits/effectiveness of Costco(Strong) jets vs premium tub jets.

I appreciate the responses. Being that boric acid is relatively pH neutral, I figured that method might be easier as I imagine it would be easy to overshoot one's target level with the introduction of muriatic acid in such a small quanity of water. However, if I am most likely going to need to "fine tune" my pH using either method, I might just take WB's advice. I already have MA on hand as I have an inground swimming pool with a SWG that requires periodic pH reducutions, so I'll just need to purchase some borax. For those that are interested, I'll post back to let you know how it went.