ulao

That solved all my issues. I guess there are two programming modes and my unit was never on the right mode since I changed my flow sensor 4 years back and the other 2 I had to change out. This new flow kit has both programming modes.

This is new? Maybe I should give this a go. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Jandy-AquaPure-Flow-Sensor-16-cable-R0452500-NEW-FOR-ALL-AQUAPURE-SYSTEMS-/120986961298?hash=item1c2b628592:g:cHoAAOSwQJhUbPGb

I started getting 170's at the end of last summer and started flowing the advice on the net. I was pretty sure it came down to a bad board or bad transformer. At this point I have a new back board, new front board, and a new transformer all Working Jandy parts. Prior to this issue I had to replace my sensor. So I basically bought a brand new swg system. Looking for any and all advice here, not sure where to look next? I guess it's possible the sensor is bad because if I have it unplugged I do not get this error on start up. If I plug it in and turn the pool on I get an immediate 170.

I'm sure I will leave out bits that will help me get my answers so ill try to include as much info as I can thing ok. Issue: I believe my pool is leaking. I'm not sure if its by design or an issue, here is what I know. 1) I have a 10,000 gal in-ground outdoor pool. 2) it was built after the house 3) the pool does seem to be built in a way that the water drains away from the house. 4) I have had this pool for 3 years and I "think" it did not do this the previews year. Not %100 on that. 5) When it rains the pool over flows, a few hours later the pool level drops to a consistent point. It seem to be 1 inch under where the finish meets the tile(6 inches below the pool surface). 1 inch above the jets. 6) I see no sign of water around the pool, no idea where it goes. The pump also seems not to show signs or drain. 7) no sediment seem to come in to the pool when the level is below this drain point. It would be a lot easier to read this post if the forum didn't center everything?

Yes I still get a lot of sun this time of year so I'll bring that up some and watch the FC, thx for the advice.

85 was a great guess Yes my drops are very drop like, never knew that, interesting thx. Now sure why you asked about chlorine? I have a SW pool ("My pool is SW 10,000 gal.") and normally just add salt unless I need to sock the pool. My TA is not normally like this and was at 70 before I added the mineral control, is that possibly what brought it down? We use stabilizer to keep the TA from bouncing around.

PH (7.4) : CH (700) : CYA (50) : TA (50) : CL (5.0). My TA is a bit low, and my PH is not that high so adding some Baking soda is needed here? My pool is SW 10,000 gal.

My wife seems to recall the slip said 2900 for CSI, but I'll double check with the kit. Thx for the assistance.

What gave you the impression I don't use a test kit? I use a taylor kit that was recommended on here (looks like the picture you linked) . I can certainly do my own test but we take it in to the pool store every now and then just to make sure we are testing things right. Either way I know it is high and ill do a test when I can but I just picked up the recommended bottle at home depot as I didnt get a quicker reply.

A recent pool test is calling for mineral control. The calcium is apparently high in my pool? Most of the time these "special" fixers are simply one main ingredient wrapped around a pretty bottle with a fancy name on it. I tried to do some research but I'm not finding anything. What is the best way to get the calcium down?

thx guys!

Well I though I know some about metals but I guess I do not. My pool light has a bolt on it for the water seal clap. I could not remove it so it had to be cut. I bought a new galvanized bolt and it rusted all the thread off but left the center intact. I guess that means half galvanized? Anyways what type of bolt do I need?

So I retired my $75 kreepy knock off for a g3. Figure I would be better off with a nicer well know model. Only to find out, their own hose does not fit with there angle piece that goes in to my dedicated clearer. dedicated cleaner -> angle piece -> ( wont stay in ) hose Now running the cleaner is fine, the suction holds it in place but when it shuts off the hose comes free? They supplied two of them and both do this. Actually I can connect them outside the pool by hand and literally watch them come apart on there own. Is this normal, or just me?

Looks like a gummy substance in the folds of the filter. Just never saw that.

Something a bit strange is going on this summer. Pool runs for about 4 hours then the vacuum slows down as like it does when the filter is really dirty (Suction is absent). I was cleaning the filter to fix this, then one day I realize all I need to do is stop the pool, release the pressure value, and wait for the pressure to escape. When I turn the pool back on its all fixed up. I have to repeat this every 4 hours?

Its the cylinder type. Yeah, Pool Clown I guess its just being in FL and closing it for 3-4 months. Looks like small seeds. I think it just had to be flushed out. Seem to be ok now.

I closed my pool for the winder and now I have to clean my pump daily. Each time I clean the filter more junk is cough in there, and after a hour the pmp stop working 100%. Is this normal for closing a pump for 3-5 months?

I had my motor replaced about 8 months ago and I just noticed there is a leak from the motor ( at the shaft end ). I tried to tighten all bolts to the houseing but apperently its a leak nere the motor shaft. I guess what I'm wondering is, what is common cause? Or is it one of those could be anything? Its not a drip, its a good stream of 1/4 water commming out.

thx for the heads up. For whatever reason its working again, but I trust it will return to a broke state.

white

So I have had my fair share of troubles with the flow sensor and after quite a bit of learning I was able to get the new sensor installed and calibrated the salinity at the beginning of this summer. At first I thought it was my lack of knowledge but it turns out something is killing these things. So here I am a gain with another bad sensor. Why do I think its bad? Well it displays HH or 00 form what I read when its bad. This is not always indicative of a bad sensor but it is my feeling that it is bad. When I try to calibrate it using the up arrow it will go to 0.1 and then fall back to 0.0. If I press up fast enough I may get to .4 but it still falls back to 0.0. Also I had my pool tested and it is at 3.1 gpl but the jandy unit ( 700 aquapear ) says add salt. If my guess is true and the sensor is bad, what woudl cause this?

I figure that would be an easy search argument but I was wrong. I figure - - mean no level read but I get this every time I check for a level where as normally ( prior last week ) I always got a value. Mt second guess was level too low but adding salt didnt help. Then I figured maybe its the sensor, so I took it off and cleaned the leads with vinegar to remove any unwanted build up. I then turned the system back an and there is was a 2.7reading ( salt level is displayed in grams per liter (gpl) ) . Then on the following day after it was running for a bit its back to - - again. So I was wondering if anyone knows what - - means? Also wondering if there is another way to test the ppm without relying on jandy. Or any thoughts in general? Also in checking the codes (172, 183 and 184) This seems to point to much of the same ( bad sensor ) I know the sensor is good as I just bought it new ( unless a year is considered old )? Should I give it a bath in a solution mix?

resolution , new motor.

I had the bearings replaced a month back or so and all has been fine, now I get this sound. Its getting louder and louder.Pump seems to be creating acquitted force, just sounds horrible. http://spawnlinux.dy...12-12-56-16.mp4 I dont see a way to add videos but most browsers will play in the browser. Otherwise I think media player will play it. _update_ I did take off the pump and when turned by hand I here and feel resistance near the impeller, so I removed it down to the shaft. The sound comes from the shaft rubbing on part A. Now when I opened it there was a flat rubber washer of some sorts, no idea where to get a new one or what its called. Then based on the corrosion and rust it looks like water got in here. So I guess what I need to know is what will clear this mess up, and two what type of oil or grease do I need to put it back together. closer ups: WEll, looks like I'm buying a new motor. Turns out the fool that replaced the bearings had done a bad job because the shaft is scratched bad and I dont know anyone localy that will do motor work of this degree. I also notices the shaft seal is not the same diameter as the shaft, is that right? It is about 1/4 of an inch bigger...

So at the end of the day I put my tools away the there is the diffuser laying on the bench... Well no wonder...