rsg71

How do you know if you have an airlock? I recently replaced a pump (tub drained) and was curious if there is an "airlock sound"?

ChaiSTi - You are the man! SUCCESS This was the answer: "Try leaving both red wires connected to #4. The placement of P-COM will determine whether you send 120V or 240V to the motor. If done correctly you will have 240V between P-COM & P-LO and P-COM & PHI depending on the speed you select. " My lack of 240V knowledge was a big downfall on this, yours just the opposite. I was a little afraid to "cross the streams" but that was the trick. I owe you a bunch of beers and a dip in the tub if you're ever in the ATL area Now that's it's running, I have to figure out how to adjust the flow control. The new pump is twice the HP of the old pump, and you can hear it throttling every few seconds. Cheers!

Being that I can't see 240V at any wires except between Red and Black, I have opened up the sub-panel (breaker off at main panel) and taken a picture. Here it is, maybe just by this the answer is obvious? Sub-Panel

So I moved the P-COM wire to the other end of a 20A fuse, moved the red wire which was going to that 20A fuse and moved it to AC # 1. Still no luck. In this configuration, only one red wire is going to the heater, not used for anything else. Question - I presume it would be bad for that P-COM to be connected to Red, correct? Also, at this point, if I disconnect the pump, my meter should read 240V at the AC input between White and Red, or White and black, correct? Or even Ground and Red or Ground and black, correct? --Trying to determine if the input is my issue. Roy

ChaiSTi, You may have picked up on something. "Looking at the Conversion Diagram again, it looks like you would need to move the wire with the 20A fuse from 1 to 4. Have you done that?" Presently there are 2 red wires coming from the AC block to the board. One goes to the board, another goes to a 20A fuse. The only way I was able to get the pump running at all, was to move the red wire heading to the pump and connecting it to the other end of that 20A fuse (it has nothing on the other end of it, and essentially I am giving it direct Red AC). Now looking at that diagram, I see a wire straddling from 1 to 4, as you have mentioned. But I am lost here. Number 1 is a white wire (common), Number 4 is Red. Maybe what the diagram is saying is connect the "inside" end of #1 to the 20A fuse? That would put Red AC to J5 looking at the diagram. - NO, what they are saying is to move the red wire going from #4 that has a 20A fuse on it that goes nowhere, and move it to #1. Then, connect the P-COM white wire going to the motor and connect it to the other end of that fuse! I will verify when I get home this evening. Thanks ChaiSTi, you may have rattled the brain!

ChaiSTi, I only get 120V between COM and either Black or Red (low or hi). I only get 240V between Red & Black. In fact, those readings are the same at the AC input, not just at the motor. Question - if I bypass the control board completely, and am applying the feed directly to the motor, what speed should the motor run on? Because it basically does the same thing. Roy

ChaiSTI - The Balboa board does not have a bank for Red AC, only White / Common. The Board does have 2 relays for the pumps (one hi, one low), and they appear to function properly as I hear the 'click' when it attempts to change speeds. Only when I have pulled the red wire off the board, and directly to the input could I even get the motor to run on low for a while now (suspecting the unit is overheating in low mode alone at this point).

Okay, here is my status update: Assessment: - I tested today with the assistance of John's instructions. First, I tested the incoming AC; Testing from common to (black or red) always gave me 120V. Testing between black and red gave 240V. So input is good. -Output - Not good; with wires supposedly connected properly on the board, I could never produce 240V between black and red, unless I moved the red to direct AC input. - Motor - Even with me bypassing the board completely, and applying power directly to the motor, although it would run on low, it would eventually heat up and shut down. I verified I am using the correct connections for the internal motor wiring (#5 - Common, #4 - Red, #2 - Black). I even contacted Gecko today and they confirmed these connections. Possible Causes: - Board does not properly handle 240V? - Motor / Capacitor may be bad? I am open to ideas and your expertise... I have added a picture to the link above with that of the exact board in my spa. Thanks. - additional testing - when first running (speed 1) I get an 'FL' code on the topside display, it then goes away and displays the water temp. Also, the only way to get the pump to spin is to have the Red wire connected directly to AC.

spatech - haven't kept the power on long enough to check that, it did heat properly before replacing the pump. John - So when I test the voltage on the wires (at the motor) should I be receiving 240V on the common (white) and 120V on red & black (each)? I normally use the common as the 'ground' when using the tester, so how should I be testing for this voltage? Also, the motor common is the "white" wire. This is one individual wire where the pump common is going directly to the AC line, not touching the spa pack at all. thanks, Roy.

I have recently replaced the pump on my spa to a Gecko (2-speed) 240V only pump. The old pump was 120V, the wet end cracked, and it was over 8 years old so I splurged for a new one. The spa itself has been running on 240V 50A for some time now without issues, and the heater is running on 240V (confirmed). But since hooking up the new pump, it will not go into 'High' mode. The spa will circulate on low speed, when it goes to go into high speed, the motor spins for a second, then spins down, and it happens continually ( I have not allowed it to do this for more than 20 seconds or so just to be safe, then I remove power from the spa). All I have done so far to "convert" to 240v for the pump is removed the common wire from J4 and connected it directly to the incoming white common connection at the AC Inputs. The spa itself is a Leisure Bay Thunder Bay 2003 model from Recreation Spas. The spa pack is a Balboa S2 / Model 25300 Rev 4.D The new pump is as follows: Flo-Master (Gecko) Xp2E 56Fr 3.0Hp 230V 2Spd.-Aqua flo GECKO ALLIANCE XP2E 56FR 3.0HP 230V 2SPD. Here are pictures of the wiring: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=royg71&target=ALBUM&id=5619746732016922369&authkey=Gv1sRgCLbB1YP9-du8pAE&feat=email Thanks in Advance!!!