newtopools01

Figures... I had a Pentair rep tell me it is 3 1/2 hp @ 3450. Sorry, im confused! I thought all pumps run at a max speed of 3450RPM, regardless of HP, so how does 3450 RPM on the Hayward EcoStar equate to 2HP? And how do I know what variable speed to set for filtration? I have a cartridge filter (if that makes a difference?).

The plumbing is 2" (I think), and the equipment pad is about 6-7 feet away from the side of the pool.

Hi, I just got a Hayward EcoStar, during the consultation process the installer said that I would be running the pump at 65% for two hours to run the polaris, and at 35% for 4 hours to filter the water. The 35% was used to show how much energy savings I would be getting over the dual speed. NOW he is saying 65% for the polaris, and 45% for the filter. This upsets me because if I can only run the pump on 45% then I might as well have gotten a dual speed and ran it at 50%! My pool is about 18,000 gallons, and there are no trees, bushes or fowers around, just grass and cement. Is there an online calculator, or someway to know if I can run it at less than 45% and still get in my one turn per day? Thanks!

Yes, I do have a solar heater and panels on the roof! So this little thing inside the pool is where the water returns to after its been heated? The solar heating leaks, so we had turned the valve to make sure water bypasses it. Do bubbles and water flow from this circle thing mean that I didn't shut the valve off completely or correctly?

http://s1091.photobucket.com/albums/i382/lorinda923/?start=all While I was brushing the sides of the pool, I tried to brush the yellow stuff off this "thing" attached to the inside of the pool. The top plastic part broke off as soon as I touched it with the brush! I think it might be part of an old SCG system? Its not a salt water pool because I think this system is broken, we've always just been maintaining the chlorine levels manually with liquid chlorine. I noticed when I turn on the pump there are lots of bubbles and water coming from this "thing". Do I need to fiz the broken part I broke off? If don't need this, should I divert water flow so its not running through it? The second picture is a handle/valve looking thing on the equipment pad. There is a white circle sticker on the handle that says "rotation" and has an arrow pointing clockwise. The black box says "flo verter". I tried turning the handle clockwise, and when I let let go of the handle it made a funny buzzing noise and continued turning in a clockwise direction by itself! At the same time, strange bubbles and gurgling started coming out of the returns inside the pool and the "thing" mentioned above. What is this?

Ok, so after getting a pool tech to actually come out and look at my equipment (as opposed to just talking to the guys at the pool store), the tech said that my pump is an American Products Ultra Flo, and that they never made that pump in a 2-speed model, so replacing the single speed motor with a dual speed might not work because he would have to find an impeller that would be compatible. He also said that the hydro efficiency of the current pump is not even remotely comparable to more recent designs, and strongly suggests that I replace both the pump and the motor with a new dual speed or variable speed model. My question is, can I go ahead and just have him replace the motor and jimmy-rig an impeller to make it work? Would I be negating some of the energy efficiency of the dual speed by pairing it with an outdated pump? Or at this point do I really need to consider replacing the pump AND the motor? The pump works, there's nothing wrong with it except that its an older model. Cost is a HUGE factor, so if I can get away with just replacing the motor, then that would be ideal. @AFiremanFirst, thanks for the advice about the timer. I dont know what kind of box I have, but there is only one slot and its already filled with my current timer. I dont see any way I could fit a second timer in there, so I will probably have to get the t106m with the metal box.

Thank you for the advice and the part #'s! I will definately look into this. From what I've read online, it seems like I could add an Intermatic T106R to my existing intermatic timer? from what I understand, I need one timer to turn the pump on/off, and a second timer to change the speed from high to low? Could I also just get the T106M replacement part? Is the only difference between the T106R and the T106M the metal box?

I was thinking about replacing the pump motor for our pool. Ours works fine, but it is VERY loud! I think it is probably about 10 years old, and it is a single speed "energy effecient" model, but I don't think we are really getting much effeciency out of it. The label on our current motor is very worn, but from what I can tell, we have a single speed, Magnetek Century B2842. 1.5 HP, 208/230 volts, 56Y frame. We have solar heating on the roof, but bypass it and don't plan on ever using it. We also have a Polaris 360 sweeper, but no booster pump. There is only grass in the yard, no trees or bushes. We currently run the pump about 6 hrs a day and that has been enough to keep it clean. The pool is an inground pool, approx 17,000 gallons. I was thinking I could just upgrade the motor (without also upgrading the pump) to a dual speed, and then get a second intermatic timer to manage the second speed. I already have one intermatic timer, and I don't want to upgrade to a digital timer for cost reasons. The guys at the local pool store keep pressuring me to upgrade to a variable speed pump and motor with a digital timer intergrated into it. I think this is way more than I really need, and about three times more money that I really am willing to spend. Am I unreasonable to think I can just replace the motor for a dual speed for $300-400 and not have to spend over $1,300 getting a variable speed pump, motor, and on board timer? Are the guys at the pool store trying to rip me off? Thanks!

Thanks for the feedback! I will definately look into getting a 2-speed motor. How easy is it to replace the motor myself? I don't have any experience with pool equipment, and I don't know anything about motors or electrical things...but I'm pretty handy, and I'm good at reading instructions...

I use chlorinating liquid, no tabs unless I'm going to be away for awhile. I test weekly for CYA, CH, etc. All those levels are fine. How do I test for salt level? Thanks!

How often should residential pool owners do a full or partial water replacement for their pools? I'm new at maintaining my own pool at home, and I thought that so long as the proper chemical balances were maintained then you wouldn't need to drain and refill the pool. I add water when the water level drops too low, is that enough?

Thanks for the reply! It's not a tablet pool, I only use liquid chlorine. I don't know what the pool tech used when I was paying for pool servicing. When I had the water tested at the pool store, the guy said by calcium hardness levels were fine. Why would I drain and acid wash the entire pool if there is only buildup on the tiles at the water line? How would I know if there is buildup on the plaster? I don't see anything on the sides or bottom of the pool that look like a buildup. Its a dark bottom pool, and I guess there are some areas that look "worn down" like the color is a little lighter than the rest of the pool, is that calcium buildup? Sorry if this is a dumb question, I don't really know or understand the acid washing process...

So what makes a dual speed more effecient than my energy effecient one speed that I only run for 6 hrs? If the volts and amperage are the same, how does the dual speed actually consume less energy?

Hi, I have a magnatek century switchless motor, 56Y single speed, energy efficient square flange motor. Catalog #: B2842 HP: 1.5 RPM: 3540 Volts: 208-230 Service Factor: 1.47 Amps: 9.6-8.8 Pool Size: 18,000 gallons I currently run the pump 6 hours a day. There are no trees, plants, bushes or anything around the pool, so it stays pretty clean. Is it worth it to upgrade to a dual-speed or variable speed motor, if my single speed is already energy efficient?

New to the forums...trying to manage my own pool for the first time without the use of a pool service. This forum is great, I've been learning so much! I have an inground, gunite, plaster lined pool with a decorate blue tile border along the top where the water line is. We have relatively hard water in our local area, and there is a white build up of hardwater stains over the blue tile. The buildup is so thick, that you can't even tell the tile is blue underneath. I was thinking of letting the water drop so the tile border is exposed, and using some kind of a water-muriatic acid solution and a mr. clean magic eraser to remove the buildup. Advice? Does this sound like a crazy idea? If I were to use an acid solution, how many parts acid to water should I use? Thanks!