ps0303
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Posts posted by ps0303
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Sounds like maybe you blew the transformer in the heater. Your wiring from the breaker goes to the transformer and then the transformer feeds the unit @ 24V
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Don't expect any better quality from a new Mastertemp. I find the Pentair heaters are nothing but problems. I will be replacing a three year old one tomorrow as the customer has had nothing but issues. Yes sometimes there are lemon products but I see lots of Pentair pool heater lemons. I don't like internet sales specifically for the problem you had. If you had a local company to buy it from it would save you the hassle of waiting to return plus you can inspect when you pick it up. Also pay attention to the warranty for when you buy from the internet. It's not the same 2 year that you get when purchased and installed by a professional. Yes I know your friend is a pipe fitter but the pool companies don't see it the same way.
I install tons of heaters on salt pools where the heat exchanger is copper. Cupro nickel is not the end all be all. You still have to watch your chemical balance and keep it right. If you don't, no matter what, you will ruin another heater. Cupro nickel can leak but just takes a little longer. As for the bypass, yes you can add it but honestly there should not be any ill affect on the heat exchanger if the water runs thru it all the time. Only chemicals or poor product quality ruins most heaters.
Just my 2 cents.
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I'm guessing what you think it says 104, it is actually the temp that the heater is set to. If you have an automation system then it controls the temp, not the heater. In order for it to work this way you have to set the temp on the heater, for both pool and spa, to the highest set point, 104. Maybe your heater is using the pool setting. What is the temp that the pool, on the heater, is set for?
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I would consider shocking your pool with a higher dose of liquid chlorine. I guess they could be coming from your neighbor but in order for them to take to your pool water, there has to be something in it that they want/need.
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Possible bad run start capacitor or there is a bad section of windings in the motor.
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This is probably a millivolt system and doesn't use an electrical connection.
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There you go. Replace the high limit. You will probably find that it's rusty/corroded pretty good. I see this often on this unit.
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So it lights and burns for 30 seconds and then goes out? Does it keep doing this or only once and then it's done?
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The pentair easytouch uses a two wire to control the heater. So what you do is set on the heater, both the pool and the spa temps to the highest, 104, and then push the remote button. You need to have the easytouch remote with the display so you can then adjust the temps via the handheld. That is how the system works. Just because you select spa on the remote, it will not choose spa on the heater unless you had a three wire connection. Easytouch doesn't use a three wire though. If you don't have the handheld remote with the display, then you will have to set your temps on the outdoor controller. You set one for your pool and one for the spa. Again, the Easytouch controls the heaters temp.
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They all have their pluses and minuses. I couldn't say one over the other. Look at the warranties.
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E02 is a tricky one. Have you looked at the power element in the header? If not, take a look and see if that or the spring is bad. To test the power element, once you take it out, hold a lighter up to it and see if while it's getting heated up if it moves. If no movement, it's bad and needs replacing.
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I don't think this is anything to worry about. Just out of curiosity, is the heater plumbed in correctly? I've seen some where the in flow is plumbed to the out flow. Double check this and make sure they are correctly plumbed.
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Try a power reset first and then change the temp. How old is your system?
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Ask your PB what an Intellitouch system would cost over the RS. As for the extra pump, it's hard to say without looking at the plumbing layout. The price they quoted is decent. I wouldn't say they are gouging you.
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Get some vitamin C tablets, crush them up and put in an old sock. Then hold that sock on the area where the rust is and it should come out.
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Look into a fiberglass finish. I've heard of many people that have had a similar issue and they have had their concrete shell covered in a fiberglass material.
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Do you have any valves that need to be opened to allow water to flow thru the heater? If not and the heater makes banging noises, it could be the internal bypass that has issues. Also you need to check and see if anything has built a nest or other debris on the burners. Look up from under the burners to see if there is any obstruction, use a mirror, and also check the openings of the burners to make sure there isn't a spider web in a few of them.
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Sounds like maybe one of two or both things broken. You could have a bad thermistor and or a broken bypass.
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Sounds like the seal plate is warped. I had one like that and no matter what, it leaked. Solution, replaced the entire pump. Many times when you price out the parts and pieces it's the same cost an entire new pump unit.
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Pretty simple. Just make sure you use pipe dope, thread sealer, on the gas pipe. Shut off your power to the old unit, turn off pump, shut off gas cock, check for ground wire on back of unit and disconnect it, and then start disconnecting plumbing and the everything else. BTW, read the manual and see if they have any type of disclaimer stating that a qualified licensed installer is to perform the work or the warranty is void. Some companies are now starting to do that to protect themselves from a homeowner breaking it and then trying to get it covered under warranty.
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Is your pump a 1.5HP single speed pump?
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So it sounds like the pump isn't priming as you said. To get ot to prime, remove the lid from the pump and take a hose and add water to it. At times you can let the hose run a while as it fills the pump basket up. Then you can somewhat quickly screw the pump basket lid back on and then hit the switch for the pump. Hopefully that will get the water flowing for you. Now remember that the next time you clean the filter cartridge that once you open it up, your pool will lose the water contained in the pump basket and you will mostlikely have to manually prime the pump again.
In the future, when it's pool season, always allow the pump to run every day. Don't ever let it not run and the pool sit still. Also, when you have an algae break out like you did, lots of liquid chlorine is what you want. You shouldn't have to use any algaezide or clarifiers to clear it up. Just a good high dose of liquid chlorine.
I hope this helps you.
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Possibly that the ignitor isn't glowing. Two ways to check it would be to turn the unit on and while it's going thru the sequences feel down around where the ignitor is and see if it's getting hot. Be careful as it gets REALLY hot. Or if you have one of the clamp on amp probes, you can see if there is any activity going on with that clamped around the wires to the ignitor.
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It's really hard to tell just from pictures if there is anything else besides the possible board and the keypad. Just to repalce the keypad and control board you are in the $600-$700 for the repair. A new 400 would cost you over $2000. I would look to see if there is a repair person close to you to look at it and verify that if the board and keypad were replaced will it work.
Aqua Logic Recalibration Of The Salt Cell, How?
in All Swimming Pools Types
Posted
There is no real calibration option. You can go into the diagnostic menu and then go to Instant Salt reading and it is probably different then what you were reading. You can then save it into the system and go forward from there.