knutohotub

Was the spa "setup" included in the price? Since you have some non working issues on your new tub what were the explanations from the dealer? Are they going to fix them and when? Personally I'd be a little wary and look into stopping payment until these items are fixed. The spa temps of 100F are probably due to the pumps running and heating up the water unless of course the heater is running. I run my circ pump for 8 hours a day and maintain 91F with no heater running. How are you testing the water? Are you using strips? Strips from what the gurus here say are not very accurate. Get yourself a Taylor test kit from Amato. Look into using the Bleach/Dichlor method for your spa. Its much cheaper then using overpriced spa chemicals. http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=23090

I only run my circ pump 8 hrs a day and that runs my ozonator like yours. Running a pump will heat up the water. I'm no expert but in my limited experience (have a HT for 6 months) you aren't adding enough chlorine to maintain proper level's. An ozanotor is not a be all end all tool. It helps. Sweat will drop chlorine levels. I went from 4 oz of bleach per day to almost 12 oz since the summer and my water tests perfect. Do you have a test kit? Did you test for CC? Post your numbers that will help with a diagnosis.This board will suggest a Taylor K2006 Test Kit from amato http://www.amatoind.com/taylor-k2006-test-p-555.html if you are using chlorine. I bought one on the boards recommendations and it's worked great. Good luck Yep, I run the circ pump 24 hours a day, and add chlorine once a week. I am somewhat new at this too, as I have had my Sundance unit for only 6 months too. I have a taylor test kit, and everything is pretty much spot on, except for chlorine, where my ozone system handles the load for that. Maybe during the summer I can run the ozone system very little, and during the winter have it return to normal operation, as there is no problem if heat is added during the winter. I wonder if you can had liquid bleach, or if you need to keep buying the very expensive packaged materials? Yes, regular chlorox works great. (unscented) Being your tub is new it may have biofilms. Have you ever checked for Combined Chlorine? At 6 months u are due for a water change anyway so I would use SwirlAway or spa flush then clean your filters with TSP trisodium phosphate. Home depot carries it for about $4. http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=19115 Refill the tub and use the Diclor/bleach method. http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=23090

I only run my circ pump 8 hrs a day and that runs my ozonator like yours. Running a pump will heat up the water. I'm no expert but in my limited experience (have a HT for 6 months) you aren't adding enough chlorine to maintain proper level's. An ozanotor is not a be all end all tool. It helps. Sweat will drop chlorine levels. I went from 4 oz of bleach per day to almost 12 oz since the summer and my water tests perfect. Do you have a test kit? Did you test for CC? Post your numbers that will help with a diagnosis.This board will suggest a Taylor K2006 Test Kit from amato http://www.amatoind.com/taylor-k2006-test-p-555.html if you are using chlorine. I bought one on the boards recommendations and it's worked great. Good luck

My suggestion would be to remove any/all side panels that expose the piping and replace the piping as you go.

Don't sweat it. Fill it and enjoy it. The starter kit will probably last a couple of weeks. Until then check out the stickies located at the top of the pages. You should get a test kit and if you're going to use the bleach/diclor method order the Taylor k2006 from amatoind.com. The test strips are garbage. IMO the first couple of weeks of testing and reading can be overwhelming. But once you get the hang of it you'll be just fine. Happy Tubing! Check out the http://www.poolcalculator.com/ all of the abbreviations are linked.

Ah that makes sense. I've read the D/B method and many other posts. I'm still trying to digest it all. its a little overwhelming being what the dealer says is required maintenance and what's recommended here. Thanks for the info.

The residue is a powdery like you mentioned, wipes off easily and the spa water does have a slightly salty taste. Otherwise its crystal clear. Thanks for your thoughts on the CYA. I've shocked the tub with diclhor a few times thinking I had a contamination issue. My FC was dropping to 0 every morning. after shocking the FC went From 16ppm to 5ppm in a 480 gal tub with a CC of 1 overnight. The tub doesn't get much sun but I've left the cover open for a few hours during the process. The FC drop looks like its leveled off. It went from 5 to 3.5 overnight with a CC of .5. I guess I'm getting closer? Idunno? Thoughts? Suggestions?

Sorry, above the water line and anywhere the water would be splashed.

I've noticed white mineral deposits on the exterior of the tub and was wondering what's causing it. I have only had the tub a few weeks and I'm using the dichlor/bleach method. They wipe off easily. I just got over a foaming issue and resolved it after cleaning the filters in TPS. Could this be part of the issue? FC 5 CC.5 PH 7.4 TA 80 CH 200 CYA 70

Hope this helps. Thanks for the info.

Newbie questions Currently I have an ozonator and using the N2 system and was supplied a starter kit from the dealer which includes 2.5 lbs of 33% MPS,68% other ingrdients, sodium bicarb and a test strip kit. I’m about out of the MPS in a months usage. Traffic has been 2 of us once or twice daily in a 450 gal tub. 1-Is the starter kit I received complete or did I also need a sanitizer also? 2-I’ve been checking the MPS and PH levels daily and the MPS levels drop off very quick. Is that normal? Is 2.5 lbs of MPS about what I should be using over that period of time? Being I’m about out of MPS and thought I’d switch to the diclor/chlorine method that’s been talked about on the forum. 3-Are there any special steps to change over? I ordered the K-2006 test kit so I can get a better idea of water quality.I assume I'll need to wait until the MPS is gone before using it. Any tips are greatly appreciated.