glennmacph

thanks for the schooling on CYA,I bought a non-stabilizer chlorine for future shocking after the 30 ppm level is reached, A water person tested my water and said your alk. is to low(50 ppm)it will damage your equipment and is bad for bathing too.I told her that its the only way to keep my PH balanced,and that my CH is at 100 ppm,they said its still bad to do now what??????????????????????????????

Its just my 3rd fill of my new tub,arctic spa onzen(swg).Ive been baffled by chlorine production and readings with this fill,the only thing I did different was alot more super shocking with arctic spa stabilizing chlorine gradules(boost),I have a color q test kit,very accurate,but was never testing CYA It was with these test strip that got me thinking about CYA because the color of the stabilizer section was very high 150 to 300 PPM range The bottle of boost lists CYA in its ingredients,I think my SWG has a hard time producing Chlorine with such high CYA readings,which causes me to put more boost chlorine in it and the cycle continues. Am I going in the right direction here,kinda new at this,the SWG is an amazing producer of chlorine when the water is new but drops off as the water gets older and I think because of this CYA thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi Larry: My meter alway's reads a much higher tc than fc even after super shock,it cant be accurate for cc or at least I cant get it to read lower.I average .8 to 1.5 ppm higher all the time I produce ozone for 2 hours on and 4 off through out a 24 hour period,and produce chlorine for 12 hours out of 24 per day. The guru's believe its the ozone affecting the reading,do you have a ozonator???????

do you find your meter to be accurate for fc - tc = cc any tricks you learned for accurate measurements????????????? PH and ALK are not time sensitive but I think fc is!!!!!!!!!!!

now I'm confused-how do I know when to shock my tub!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was going to use CC ppm readings as a indicator I can't turn off my ozone, only vary it by filtration settings Is there any other way to know if the tub should be shocked??????????

Well got my color Q water tester now,I've been testing 2 times per day just to understand the new meter and understand hot water chemistry a bit better. My onzen tub produces chlorine and ozone through out the day depending on settings. Since I got my new meter my chlorinates have been in the .8 to 1.1 range,I think this is high and calls for a super-chlorination or is this level O.K.????????????????????????

I put the MPS in 9 hours before the reading-I have my colour Q tester now so accuracy will be better Should I try something now

thanks for all the advice-I used a spa flush by arctic pure brand (fresh start) but did not turn off the generator (didn't even think of it) I'm a new spa owner ,live and learn,I should of check the forum again and would of caught that mistake!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks again

I just thought of a precaution from manufacturing, I would flush the new tub plus a tampon sat in my tub for 2 days and broke down into fibres

arctic spa-onzen salt water sea salt blend tub,could anyone recommend a good spa flush product out there,or because of this system its best to go through the dealer(I just have no confidence in what they say) but it might not be a big deal on this request!!!!!!!!!! I 'd rather go through this forum for my answers and continuing knowledge

Original poster here!!!!!-I did a test yesterday,because I'm dumping the month old water in the new tub,but I wanted to see if mps would send free chlorine levels through the roof again in this dead sea salt onzen tub and sure enough there at shocking levels,arctic corporate and dealer believe there is no bromine in the sae salt blend from artic pure but all they did was read the label that says nothing anyways. The reason I was inquiring about mps(refresh) vs stabilized chlorinating granules(boost) was to reduce fc levels during water recovery from parties so I can use it quicker,but it seems some how both products cause high fc levels or some how contaminating true readings-I'm just a little confused and still don't have my regent test kit yet only going by test strips and "digital true read meter" from aquchek

arctic dealer says no to refresh(mps) and arctic corporate says yes to refresh(chlorine salt generator)this is why its so confusing to a newbie.MPS is an oxidizer and granule chlorine(boost) is a sanitizer,you can only get rid of CC's by superchlorinizing or mps,is this correct?????????????????????

I'm preparing to dump my new tub's water,the tub's a month old now,I have very little confidence in my dealers advice but I have "poolandspa.com" thank god.I'm waiting for a digital water analyzer due to colour blindness and then start at the basics. Can I have some options on types of good filter methods out there,I have a arctic spa (2200 liters)salt water(sea salt) blend. The tub came with a 3 month disposable filter,I don't think this is a good filtration method but I could be wrong I'm just going one step at a time,I've got the pre filter which attaches to the hose for filling, so its on to step 2 now-the tub's filter,Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Your all right by suggesting "go back to the basics" I have ordered my "colourQpro analizer"due to colour blindness and it should arrive in 10 business days from now.In the meantime, I will further educate myself reading past and present posts you have all supplied thank so much, I'm starting to feel better about understanding a tub now,I'll never go in a public hottub again(ha ha ha )

thanks-I'm trying to work with the chlorine generator first and get results-but I can't seem to get a handle on this

OK-I'm way over my head here-I'm partially colour blind and will be getting a lamotte color pro 7 water analyzer soon. I am only using aquachek test strips(fc,ph,alk)and the dealer will analyze my water when I get in trouble,but they contradict everything I read here about water chemistry,I believe they don't know a lot about water,there answer to my questions is"your over analyzing this". I got a reading from the dealers analyzer of 3.7fc and .8 cc this is why I chose to shock using arctic pure refresh(mps)so I could reduce the cc to .2 or lower but not raise my Chlorine to an unusable level,which didn't happen. Why so much refresh? I thought I read, 1 ounce(25 grams{1 capful}) per 400 liters,my tub is 2200 liters,thats why I chose 5 capfuls!!!!! The dealer makes me feel as if I'm bothering them and I have no where to turn too.My water is not crystal clear,But that may be the salt doing this for all I know(the dealer fills the show tub without salt I found out and I wonder why now) The dealer says my sea salt blend is chlorine only,no bromine in it!!!!!!and not to use refresh with my system. I've had my tub for a month now so I'm going to dump the water anyways and start over once my new tester comes in(this week)I just don't want to make the mistakes I've already made,but I don't know what I doing with this onzen system

my onzen chlorine salt generator was set at its usual setting of 4 out of 6,put in 5 ounces of refresh(mps) for a shock and by morning my free chlorine level shoot up to 11 ppm, just after the shock I check fc reading and it was 2ppm I turned down my generator to 2 for now to try to lower the FC level does any one have a theory and solution for my next shock treatment

I've been lurking for awhile now,I've spent a lot of time reading our forums in order to understand the answers to my Questions.My motto is "If your not willing to learn to help yourself, your not worth helping" So I understand the basics now and would like to get some things cleared up in stages!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have a onzen system from Arctic spa,just starting to dial in the setting for our usage-so far so good,but I don't understand combined chlorine? or what it is? and how to correct it? If someone could educate me on the true meaning of this reading and how to combat it, if its bad,I would be thankful,but more questions will coming (ha ha ha )