xulud

This is for a swimming pool application

I have been reading today that even the best laid pebble finishes can and do get hairline cracks. You just cant see them that easily for the pebbles. A hairline crack will allow water ingress.

Not tyring to be contentious but a couple of months ago I spoke to someone who spent 30 years as a pool tiler and now works as a tech for one of the construction adhesive/render/waterproofing manufacturers. He told me that pool plaster finishes whether they are quartz/marble/pebble based are not waterproof and he often gets calls from pool builders who are looking for a waterproofer which they could apply under the plaster finish (which he dosent have so its not a sales pitch). He also said that it is a common misconception that pool plaster is waterproof. That being said, there may be waterproofing additives in some US plasters that arent included in plaster here. Do you have any experience with the use of Polymer modified cementitious waterproofing products? a couple of manufacturers state that theirs are suitable for pool waterproofing but I am now wary of all claims as to suitability/longevity of products for pool use! http://www.taminternational.com.au/media/file/product_files/S1-TamSeal%2010%20V1AU-10.pdf thanks

Paint? Are you kidding me? It doesn't last and needs to be redone every couple/three years. In the long run, it also costs a lot more. I agree about removing any delaminated plaster. Then the sand/soda blast or hydroblast (greater than 4K psi). bond coat and plaster. If the pool already has 2 coats of plaster, a chip out of the old plaster is required. The epoxy paint manufacturers all tell me 7-10 years: if this is incorrect; for a new concrete pool what surface would you recommend and how long would you expect it to last if water is properly maintained? "How long does Epotec last? For Domestic Pools there are examples of it lasting past 12 years easily and for Commercial Pools at least 5 years is common place." 7-10 years under ideal conditions perhaps, even then at that point the paint is going to really show its age, which isn't necessarily a horrible thing considering the cost of redoing the paint is relatively cheap. Aesthetically plaster blows paint out of the water, but a lot of people with older pools do not want to spend the money on new plaster and opt to paint the pool themselves every few years. Thanks. Just spoke to a pool repair guy I know who suggested that he could put in a fibreglass coat inside, which he said should last at least 15 years. Also, I dont think that most pool plasters have much if any, waterproofing ability.

Paint? Are you kidding me? It doesn't last and needs to be redone every couple/three years. In the long run, it also costs a lot more. I agree about removing any delaminated plaster. Then the sand/soda blast or hydroblast (greater than 4K psi). bond coat and plaster. If the pool already has 2 coats of plaster, a chip out of the old plaster is required. The epoxy paint manufacturers all tell me 7-10 years: if this is incorrect; for a new concrete pool what surface would you recommend and how long would you expect it to last if water is properly maintained? "How long does Epotec last? For Domestic Pools there are examples of it lasting past 12 years easily and for Commercial Pools at least 5 years is common place."

Can you suggest a waterproofing coating that I could apply under the epoxy (or possibly a concrete additive) (type, not brand as I am in Australia). Have been told that a flexible waterproofer wont work under epoxy which is more rigid. Have rung BASF etc and cant find anything.

Many thanks.

thanks for your reply. Its a new pool. Just need to find the special cover: do you know which of the manufacturers make them? thanks

Neither is necessarily a great option. In both cases, even with using a bonding agent, you are applying new cement over old: cement dosent like to stick to itself once cured. If all of the 'drummy' when tapped areas are not chipped out and repaired, then they will likely be the places to go next after the new surface is applied. If after careful tapping all over the pool, no or little areas are found to be drummy, then its pointless removing all of the old plaster: if its still stuck on then its likely to stay that way and you cant be sure that a complete new plaster coat will adhere any better than the old if the old is in good condition now. This comes down to two things: if most of the old plaster is still sticking, then leave it and patch the areas that aren't and then paint with epoxy. If there are considerable areas where the old plaster isnt sticking, then its probably best to remove the lot and start again.

Am I correct in thinking that it is possible to have a dedicated cleaner suction outlet so that the hose dosen't have to go into the skimmer box? If so how is this turned off when not in use as it presumably has no cover? ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote "I'm still here although no one seems to notice".

The paint manufacturer states on their website that their epoxy paint "is a thick two pack low solvent, high scratch resistance, immersion and protective coating. Commonly used for concrete swimming pools, ponds, some steel and floor projects. (Example: rust on metals and moisture in concrete)." but goes on to say that the paint is "not a membrane". Does anyone know to what extent epoxy pool paint (primer plus 2X high build coats) will prevent moisture penetration in concrete? Thanks

There are liners and then there are liners. Make sure that if you are paying a top price you get a top quality liner. Check on the brand they are supplying and make sure they are one of the few high quality made in the US manufacturers, otherwise you will be replacing in not too many years. Also check that you are getting the thicker grade of vinyl.

I am going with white with a hint of turquoise. A white pool gives a beautiful subtle blue/green colour on a sunny day, so to avoid colour probs with cloudy days I am putting in a hint of turquoise.

I am building my own pool and cant decide between these two valve options. Have heard that hydrostatic valves are a common cause of problems due to spring corrosion and grit keeping the valve open causing leaks. The other option is the less used grease plate hydrovalve which apparently is a simpler arrangement with no spring and which relies on the water pressure in the pool to keep it closed. Both of them sound like they have potential to cause problems so I would be interested if anyone has some experience of these two. thanks.