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Beelzy

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Posts posted by Beelzy

  1. Try adding Calcium Hypochlorite (Shock) on a weekly basis as the weather warms, save the algaecide for later if the algae persists.

    If you do end up needing the algaecide, get one with copper as the main ingredient.

    On a side note, make sure the filter is working properly and isn't letting anything back into the pool.

    First, copper algaecides are NOT a good idea. Copper stains pools and turns hair green! Also copper does not leave your pool. If you add copper and it tests as not being there it means it has deposited as stain. This copper CAN redissolve under the right conditions and your copper levels can rise very high if you have been adding copper based algaecides on a regular basis.

    Weekly shocking is not necessary IF you are maintaining your free chlorine levels properly. You really only need to "shock" if your combined chlorine is above .5 ppm!

    Also, shock is a verb, not a noun. It is something you do to a pool, not a special type of chlorine or product. Calcium hypochlorite is an unstabilized chlorine that is used for both shocking and for daily chlorination. Its main drawback is that for every 10 ppm FC added you are also increasing your calcium hardness by about 7 ppm.

    IF you are going to use an algaecide (and realize they are more of an inhibitor to help slow down algae growth and not an algae killer. Chlorine is what kills algae (well copper does also but it has too many negatives associated with its use).

    The only algaecides that I would suggest is either polyquat (which is not cheap but it does not have a lot of negative side effects) or adding borates to 50 ppm which, besides deterring algae growth, also help stabilize your pH by adding a secondary boric acid/borate buffer to your water in addition to the carbonic acid/bicarbonate buffer we call Total Alkalinity.

    He blinded me with Science! LOL!

    (The bit about shock being a verb and not a noun should probably be best directed to HTH or Aqau-Chem) ;-)

  2. Put the DE back into the filter(5 'weight' pounds).....after re-cleaning it.

    If you want to know for sure if the filter is the cause of the issue, take the grid assy. out

    of the tank and run it without it. I'll bet the pressure is lower, and consistent.

    Did you ever get around to checking that ancient Salt Cell to see if that could be partially plugged?

  3. The leak is most likely at the skimmer, where the tile meets the plastic part of the skimmer.

    Even a hairline crack there will cause the leak the OP mentioned. Especially if there is already some

    form of shifting in that area.

    A little epoxy putty and 10 minutes will remedy the problem.

  4. Century motors burn up those Caps all the time. It should run $15-20.00 at a motor shop. Not too many Pool stores keep those

    around anymore.

    There is no switch in the newer Century motors so don't worry about cleaning anything else. I would keep an eye on that motor

    though, as that's a nasty Blowout on that Capacitor.

  5. Hi all,

    I have a pool with integrated hot tub that has all Jandy equipment (filter pump, filter unit, heater, chlorine gen) as well as a Polaris powered by a booster. We don't use the heater a whole lot, only when we use the hot tub. It's run great since new (about 4 years ago), but last night threw an AGC error after heating the tub to about 95 deg. If you reset the heater and fired it up again, it would go through its start up routine, try to heat the water (burners would light and fan would run for about 5 seconds, twice), then it would throw the AGC error.

    I read through a few forum posts (that's how I found this forum) and it seems that the official Jandy recourse was to clean the filter or determine cause of pump oscillation. Does this generally mean that my filters need to be cleaned/changed because they're not allowing enough water to flow?

    Thanks,

    Chris

    This is a good place to start, as even if the filter is not the problem it is necessary to start with a clean filter.

    You also might check to see if there is a By-Pass valve near the heater headers that may be out of adjustment. Sometimes an

    inadvertent movement of said valve could be diverting too much water and making the heater malfunction.

  6. For that dough, the OP could have a nice steel wall pool sunk in the ground with a deck, and if and when the liner needs to

    be replaced it won't take a mortgage Re-Fi to do it. (Fox liners like to leak at the step area when they do leak)

    Liner pools are fine, I had one for a while......Fox pools are just too much for what you get IMO. The nice thing though, is

    if one doesn't want to endure a liner replacement, they can be re-finished with fiberglass. ;)

  7. I would make sure to explore other options thoroughly before deciding on a Fox Pool. Liner pools such as those get holes for

    one, and fitting the pool with a sweep/cleaner that delivers more than mediocre performance is quite a challenge. IMO

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