stevec5088

Well thank you, ChaiSTi! It appears they offer a DIY kit that I can order: 8ft Spa Restoration Kit (Redwood). I need to check out my spa now to make sure it will work. They even have an on-line install guide. ...I might question their accuracy though:

Hi, I realize this is a very old thread, but it came up when I did a web search for "composition siding spas". I would like to replace the thin wood siding on my 10+ year old Cal Spa. On the sunny side, it is curling and looking pretty bad. It appears that most new spas offered these days have that plastic+wood composition siding. (Trex is the brand sold at Home Depot.) I can find composition stock at Home Depot and Lowe's, but it is a thicker decking material. Is there anywhere we can buy the same siding material that is used on new spas? I'd rather not use vinyl siding. It seems pretty cheap-looking to me. Thanks!

I checked the unit this morning. It was getting power. And the fuse was still good. I removed the circuit board and looked for any burned spots or cracks or damage. The unit looks like it's still new. Then I noticed a connector on a square patch in the upper right corner of the enclosing box was blackened -- actually the sleeve around the connector was burned. This was the yellow wire (to the fuse, I think). I pulled the connector off and cleaned it up. It had originally been connected, but NOT pushed all the way on, so it was just barely connected. I plugged the wire back in, making sure to push it all the way in, reinstalled the circuit board, connected the power and external chlorinator cell and flow sensor plugs, turned on the power, and it all works again! You all just saved me $500! I really appreciate the help.

I will check that it is getting power. But the unit is hard-wired to the pool pump switch control, and nothing has changed there.

Hi, first timer here.... I have a 9-year-old Aquarite salt system, and last week the control died -- no display at the control box. The system has been great over the years; I've replace the cell 3 times, but that is all. Just keeping the pH at the right level by adding the acid, and maybe one sack of salt per year. I see some sharp techie resolved his own problem here: Technical Aquarite Main Board Question, where he "found the quarter size black disc (current limiting diode) was cracked and open", replaced it for $2.50. I should be so lucky! I'll take my circuit board off and inspect it for something obvious, but.... any pointers? But the bigger question... can I just replace the circuit board, or do I need a complete control unit? Any suggestions where to buy either? My local Leslie's has a complete control unit for $550.