gmbird

How are you testing the chlorine? If you are using DPD testing (test turnd red) there is a possibility that your chlorine is actually very high and the test is bleaching out. Try testing with an OTO test kit (one of those cheap two way test kits for chlorine and pH where the chlorine test turns shades of yellow). If it turns deep yellow, orange, or brown then your chlorine is actually very high and bleaching out the DPD test. If the color stays clear or only goes to a very pale yellow then you have a problem with the chlorine generation. BTW, test strips can also bleach out at high chlorine levels. A reading of .7 ppm indicates that you are using some sort of photometer or strip reader for testing. All photometers use DPD testing and do bleach out. Strip readers are not to be trusted, period. You should listen to Waterbear. My 16,500 gallon inground is equipped w/ an IC40, which has exactly twice the output/generating capacity (1.4 lbs chlorine/24 hours) as the IC20 (.7 lbs/24 hours). I do find myself adjusting the output incrementally every few days (I can adjust in 1% increments w/ my EasyTouch control panel), mainly due to varying water temperatures and CYA levels (the latter drops when I have to drain excess after heavy rains - which I've done several times this season in the StL area). That said, with an average CYA level of 60-70ppm I generally run my unit at 15-20% output on a 12 hour pump cycle (yes, I plan to invest in a variable speed pump next year) to maintain FC at 6-7ppm (higher than most but my kids spend alot of time in the pool, and the youngest isn't potty trained and - well, let's just say I've learned to check him every 15 mins after discovering soiled swim diapers more times than I care to tell this season). Anyway, based upon my notes you should be aiming for ~ 40% output on a 9-hour pump cycle to maintain FC at approximately 4-5 ppm (4 being 5% of your CYA level of 80). Given your CYA level of 80 (within the recommended range) minimizing your FC loss due to ultraviolet radiation, and a 9 hour pump cycle at 100% output, it's entirely possible that your FC has risen over time to levels sufficiently high to bleach out a DPD test (since you're producing some 250% of the chlorine your pool needs). Of course, it could be something else, but try an OTO kit and report back. OTO turned the water a very light yellow,almost clear. This is water from the cell? Are they any calcium deposits in the cell? Have you tried cleaning the cell with acid? If these don't work then it seems we have confirmed you have a malfuntioning unit. It could be the cell , the flow switch, or it could be the control unit, which is integrated into the cell, or the power supply. I would call back whoever replaced the unit for you. Did you originally have the IC20 or is that what they replaced your defecive unit with? On a pool your size (16k) I would have used an IC40. I check the cell,clean, tested the water from the return, bright yellow.

How are you testing the chlorine? If you are using DPD testing (test turnd red) there is a possibility that your chlorine is actually very high and the test is bleaching out. Try testing with an OTO test kit (one of those cheap two way test kits for chlorine and pH where the chlorine test turns shades of yellow). If it turns deep yellow, orange, or brown then your chlorine is actually very high and bleaching out the DPD test. If the color stays clear or only goes to a very pale yellow then you have a problem with the chlorine generation. BTW, test strips can also bleach out at high chlorine levels. A reading of .7 ppm indicates that you are using some sort of photometer or strip reader for testing. All photometers use DPD testing and do bleach out. Strip readers are not to be trusted, period. You should listen to Waterbear. My 16,500 gallon inground is equipped w/ an IC40, which has exactly twice the output/generating capacity (1.4 lbs chlorine/24 hours) as the IC20 (.7 lbs/24 hours). I do find myself adjusting the output incrementally every few days (I can adjust in 1% increments w/ my EasyTouch control panel), mainly due to varying water temperatures and CYA levels (the latter drops when I have to drain excess after heavy rains - which I've done several times this season in the StL area). That said, with an average CYA level of 60-70ppm I generally run my unit at 15-20% output on a 12 hour pump cycle (yes, I plan to invest in a variable speed pump next year) to maintain FC at 6-7ppm (higher than most but my kids spend alot of time in the pool, and the youngest isn't potty trained and - well, let's just say I've learned to check him every 15 mins after discovering soiled swim diapers more times than I care to tell this season). Anyway, based upon my notes you should be aiming for ~ 40% output on a 9-hour pump cycle to maintain FC at approximately 4-5 ppm (4 being 5% of your CYA level of 80). Given your CYA level of 80 (within the recommended range) minimizing your FC loss due to ultraviolet radiation, and a 9 hour pump cycle at 100% output, it's entirely possible that your FC has risen over time to levels sufficiently high to bleach out a DPD test (since you're producing some 250% of the chlorine your pool needs). Of course, it could be something else, but try an OTO kit and report back. OTO turned the water a very light yellow,almost clear.

Don't put chlorine tabs in your skimmer. Use liquid chlorine if you need to add additional chlorine beyond what your unit will do. Why did the cell need to be replaced? How old is your pool? How many hours has the cell been used? Pull the cell and inspect for scaling. http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/IntelliChlorOM.pdf The cell was replaced because the cell light wasn't coming on at all. Now all the lights are solid green.

I had the water tested at two places, ace and leslies. I have both test dpd and oto, same results. I have put a chlorine puck in the skimmer and the level seems to be coming up. Do I have to use pucks all the time? There is no way an OTO test can give you a reading of .7 ppm and OTO ONLY tests TC so you would not get FC or CC readings from an OTO test. Most Leslie's use Taylor testing and most Ace use LaMotte Waterlink Express testing. Your number are from a Waterlink test and that is a DPD test. Leslie's also uses DPD testing, usually Taylor waterlabs. Both LaMotte and Taylor DPD tests bleach out. What color did the OTO test turn? Numbers don't matter, I just want to know if it was clear, pale yellow, yellow, deep yellow orange, or brown. We are first trying to determine if your cell is generating chlorine. The water turned a very,very light yellow I tested the water right out of the return,OTO, and it turned brite yellow.

I had the water tested at two places, ace and leslies. I have both test dpd and oto, same results. I have put a chlorine puck in the skimmer and the level seems to be coming up. Do I have to use pucks all the time? There is no way an OTO test can give you a reading of .7 ppm and OTO ONLY tests TC so you would not get FC or CC readings from an OTO test. Most Leslie's use Taylor testing and most Ace use LaMotte Waterlink Express testing. Your number are from a Waterlink test and that is a DPD test. Leslie's also uses DPD testing, usually Taylor waterlabs. Both LaMotte and Taylor DPD tests bleach out. What color did the OTO test turn? Numbers don't matter, I just want to know if it was clear, pale yellow, yellow, deep yellow orange, or brown. We are first trying to determine if your cell is generating chlorine.

I had the water tested at two places, ace and leslies. I have both test dpd and oto, same results. I have put a chlorine puck in the skimmer and the level seems to be coming up. Do I have to use pucks all the time?

I have a pentair ic20 generator and can't keep chlorine in the pool. I had the cell replaced two weeks ago but can't seem to get it to work right, or at all. my pool is 16000 gal in ground, marcite. current readings fc-.7 tc-.7 cc-0 ph-7.4 cal hard-240 alk-100 cya-8o phos-300 salt-3700 can somebody give me any direction on whats going on. I'm running the pump 9 hrs a day with generator on 100%