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Newbie310

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  1. Just a quick update ... The pool completely cleared in about 2 1/2 days. Once again ... clear and sparkling. The pool "experts" that we deal with have no clue what this white substance was but it was apparently absorbed by the water (with some help perhaps from the filter). Ironically, their analysis of the water showed the exact same calcium hardness number (190) both before and after this episode. Two thoughts: the white powdery substance wasn't calcium (you would think there would be some variation) ... or ... their tests are not any more scientific than mine and they just threw out this number. The only recommendation was to shock the pool because the total chlorine number (3) was not the same as the free chlorine (2). My comment to them was that instead of shocking, wouldn't it be wiser to kick up the swg a little bit. The confused look spoke volumes. Thanks for everybody's replies.
  2. Thanks for the replies wifey and jkusmier. jkusmier ... I did stir it up (prior to your post ... oops) and began noticing improvements slowly throughout the day yesterday. This morning when I looked at it, the water is about 90% - 95% clear and there was only about 5 very small deposits on the bottom of the shallow end. Yesterday, the entire pool bottom was covered; both in the shallow and deep ends. My belief is that the water was eventually able to absorb it as opposed to the filter trapping it. I backwashed prior to brushing and vacuuming the bottom and today, noticed that my psi did not change in my filter so therefore my assumption. The vacuum did a real good job of stirring it up as the product sifted right through the vacuum bag. Thanks for your comments on using the waste feature ... we were never told about it (along with many other things) and will definitely do it next time (if there is a next time). I'm not sure if there is copper in the algaecide that I use but I will check later today. I'm thinking of shying away from the use of algaecides because of my salt water generator and it's ability to control that aspect. I've used 2 algaecides: Bioguard Polygard and Aquarius Algaecide (40%). Yes, I do use a heater (325000 btu Jandy Lite2) as I live in Canada but the summer has been gorgeous and the heater was mainly used in May and up until the middle of June. It will run sporadically throughout the night though ... this is Canada after all. The pool and heater is brand new so I hope it's not corrosion! The water is kept at 84 F. My own belief is that calcium did precipate out of this. As I said in my first post a few months ago (different topic ... had to do with Bioguard Mineral Springs vs 'ordinary' pool salt), I have been trying to cut the umbilical cord from the pool dealer due to customer service and pricing issues. I've had great success keeping my water clear, clean and sparkling by going with the advice of friends with pools, what I read (here included), and my instincts as they improve. For some reason, I thought it prudent to have it checked at the dealer knowing that the analysis will suggest spending $50 - $100. So, the analysis showed all important levels in the middle of the ideal range although calcium hardness was slightly elevated at 190. Saturation and scaling was never really mentioned as something I should be concerned about so being a novice, I went with their advice. Here is what I think. Their analysis showed a high saturation index (I don't have the exact number with me) but it wasn't extreme and that scaling could present itself. The recommendation was 2.75 litres of Bioguard Scale Inhibitor but having none in stock, they recommended the Mursatt Chemicals "Shield" product. They said and I quote ... "exact same thing as the Scale Inhibitor". Interestingly, the Bioguard Pool Magnet was also in stock but they suggested the Shield. Anyway, the Shield was added and the pool automatically reacted in a huge cloud. I checked the MSDS datasheets and I don't believe they are in fact the same thing, or at least, sold in the same concentrations. I believe I overwhelmed the pool with this product and the end result was cloudy water with the cloud settling into a white deposit on the bottom. I will take a water sample in today to compare calcium hardness levels. I will let you know but thanks again for your well informed advice.
  3. Hi. This is our first year with our 18 x 36 inground salt water pool. We have been on top of our pool chemistry all year and the results have been always bang on as has the water; clear and sparkling. I brought a sample to get tested at our local pool place and the analysis showed a slightly high ph (which I knew from my home test kit but didn't get around to lowering it before bringing in the sample ... my mistake). The ph was at 7.8. They said that my water though was at a high saturation index and scaling would become a problem. 2.75 litres of a sequestering agent was advised for our 110,000 litre pool and off I left with a product called "Shield" made by Mursatt Chemicals (akin to Bioguard Pool Magnet). My wife put in the "Shield" last evening and ever since, the water has been cloudy. I lowered the ph this morning and it is now at 7.4. Calcium hardness and total alkalinity are in the middle of the ideal range. Looking at my water this afternoon (some 16 hours later), I believe the water is clear but looks cloudy because there is a layer of a white powdery substance spread out evenly across the entire pool bottom ... both shallow and deep ends. I brushed it and it stirs up quite easily into a cloud which remains suspended. I put in the vacuum but the particles are too fine to be trapped so now the water is back to being completely cloudy. Any idea on what this is? The pool "experts" don't have a clue. My guess is some type of reaction with the "Shield" and the minerals in the water ... maybe some type of oxidation reaction? Maybe too much "Shield" for the water chemistry? I believe I have some high iron or copper as my daughter's blond hair is turning slightly green although she basically resides in the pool. I'm hoping that the vacuum will stir up the powder for the skimmer to grab it and the sand filter to eliminate it but I am worried that the powder is too fine for even this to be successful. Other than this, I'm not quite sure how to get rid of it. Any advice on what this is along with a cure would be greatly appreciated!
  4. Thanks Polyvue and I agree. A couple of final questions then ... He only had a enough bags of Beginnings to achieve a salt concentration of 2600 ppm. He said it was OK to run the SWG at this concentration until more bags of Beginning arrive (next week) although everything else I've read says this low concentration will damage the cell. Moving on, my plan is to simply add purified salt sold at the hardware store to get a concentration close to 4000 ppm. I will then simply test the water regularly and add salt as required and other chemicals as required. He didn't think it was a big deal of me having to add Bioguard Renewal every week to the tune of 5.5 x 4 lbs bags. And I thought, to a greater extent, that these SWG pools were supposed to fend for themselves?!?!?! Is there any issue with adding the purified salt to this Bioguard Beginnings product to get my salt levels elevated?
  5. Thanks for both the opinions. The purified salt sold at a hardware store is $11.00 per 20 kilograms. The Mineral springs is $18.00 per 10 kilograms. I agree with your comments regarding the dealer. There is no special or differential treatment despite him building the pool for us. I did call him and he stated that he could not guarantee the warranty regarding corrosion (he mentioned the ladder and any other metals if we went with regular purified salt). He does our testing for free BUT only if we buy the chemicals from him. I am in the process of documenting the contents of all of the chemicals sold to us and then comparing the contents/ingredients/price with others. I don't mind paying for these from him to ensure the pool gets up and running properly. He mentioned that the vinyl liner will deteriorate much quicker with regular purified salt than with the Mineral Springs product.
  6. Good morning, We recently had an inground pool installed in our backyard. It was completed late last year and was not started (we live in Ontario, Canada). We opted for a salt water pool and have a Zodiac Clearwater LM2-24 system. The contractor is also an exclusive Bioguard dealer. Being newbie's to this, we are following his instructions however there have been a few bumps along the way. Needless to say that once we figure out and get more comfortable with water chemistry, we can cut the umbilical cord. We followed these instructions to get our pool going (all Bioguard of course): Our saturation index is -0.45 so we have been instructed to add "Burn-Out", "Polygard", "Stabilizer 100", "Balance Pak 100" and lastly "Balance Pak 300". This is over the course of 4 days. Lastly is the salt but they have given us the Bioguard Mineral Springs "Beginnings". We didn't think anything of this until we had time to do some research on salts on the internet. We thought salt was salt but apparently we bought gold. Luckily, we haven't paid for it yet so I think it is going back and that is why I'm posting. I am of the opinion I just need salt (ie. Sifto brand in Ontario). Are there any comments regarding this Mineral Springs product vs salt? It is being marketed as a 'spa' experience and all we are looking for is a great pool experience which is easy on the skin. As well, are we tying ourselves too tightly to this Bioguard regimen by the dealer? He is one of the few (if not only) water test places in town and we don't want to get adversarial with him post pool warranty. Thanks for any help and your patience with these "Newbies"!!
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