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timboxx

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Posts posted by timboxx

  1. I hope your not chemically cleaning the cell every day, that will wear it out prematurely for sure. If the cell light is on, then it is trying to produce Cl.

    Simple test: take a Cl reading in your pool. The lower the level of Cl, the better. then loosen the down stream union on the cell (while it's on) and let it trickle water out. Get your test vial, and gather some of that water, and test it. If the Cl level is higher from the cell than it is in the pool, then the cell is producing. How much? that depends on the condition of the cell. New cells will be making more than older cells, etc etc.

    Okay, thanks for the information. I'll let you know what the outcome is.

    Timbo

    OK, here is what happened. Previously my Jandy 1400 salt system was getting 120 & 121 codes, had lots of buildup in the cell, and I was getting green looking algae on the pool walls. I am not a pool guy and had not been trained on the system even when it was installed several years ago. The pool company said to clean the cell with the 4-1 (water/acid) solution and if that didn’t work, I should buy a new system. I proceeded to submerge the cell in a bucket and let sit for 20 to 25 minutes then blow out with a hose. I could see pieces of the buildup coming out but nothing changed as far as performance. I was getting the CELL ON light and assumed it was trying to produce chlorine, just not enough to make a difference in the pool. I was almost to the point of buying a new cell and made a final attempt to clean the cell. This time I did not let the cell sit in the solution, instead, I prepared 3 ½ to 1 (water acid) and poured the solution through it, (gloves and glasses on) over and over again. This action seemed to remove more of the buildup, then blew it out with a water hose. I did this two times on consecutive days. ALAS, I have a sparkling blue pool, no algae and it’s been two weeks now. I’m still monitoring it closely but so far so good. I now know I need to clean the cell every few months to keep the buildup away.

    Thanks for your help Pool Clown.

    Timbo

  2. I hope your not chemically cleaning the cell every day, that will wear it out prematurely for sure. If the cell light is on, then it is trying to produce Cl.

    Simple test: take a Cl reading in your pool. The lower the level of Cl, the better. then loosen the down stream union on the cell (while it's on) and let it trickle water out. Get your test vial, and gather some of that water, and test it. If the Cl level is higher from the cell than it is in the pool, then the cell is producing. How much? that depends on the condition of the cell. New cells will be making more than older cells, etc etc.

    Okay, thanks for the information. I'll let you know what the outcome is.

    Timbo

  3. Tuff question. The problem with these systems is that, it may not show you all the codes at once. Yes, you may get multiple codes, but they all relate to one component. Then, when you repair/replace the component in question, you may begin to get a different set of code(s). You can see how the repair costs begin to snow ball.

    Fortunately, or unfortunately, It gave you a trouble code for the most expensive part on the unit first. So any other repair will be, cheaper?

    Since they have all but discontinued (depends on date of manufacturer) the two port style cell, You really have only one choice. The new 3 port cell does require some plumbing, so you need to be prepared for that, whether you do the plumbing, or you have it done(cost just went up!). Now, you can get the two port cell two different ways, You can get the cell with the sensor, or without it. Why would you want it without? Well, say you just had the durn thing repaired not too long ago, and, you guessed it, it was the sensor! You didn't pay >300 dollars for that thing, just so it can get cut out and discarded right? If your cell union isn't plumbed right up against the sensor tee, you can just cut close to the cell, and keep the sensor. Plumb in the tee cell, and off you go! The cells without, have a blank plate where the sensor goes, so when you need a new sensor, you can take the plate out and use the new style sensor.

    Heres the bottom line(i think). You can pay about anywhere between 800 and 1000, give or take, for a replacement cell. You need to weigh the cost difference between a cell, and a new system. If the existing system has been trouble free for 4 years, maybe you could spend some money on it. But if it has needed service? Maybe new system, or even look at different manufacturer. Personally, I think these things need to run trouble free to even begin to pay for themselves. It's funny, i treat mine like $hiz (water chems), and it doesn't give me any problems. Then i have some customers that take care of theirs, and need service.

    OK on that, but, I think my next question is, if the (cell on) light is on, is it producing chlorine? Or trying to produce chlorine? Maybe just less than it should and it’s still a dirty cell, or could it be giving me a false reading. My hope is, if I keep cleaning it every day, maybe it’ll come around. Are the insides of the cell really that intricate and even a little buildup could be giving me trouble.

    About to pull what little hair I have left out…

    Timbo

  4. Help Me Pool Clown, I have a Jandy 1400 salt system. I am getting 120 & 121 codes. I cleaned the cell with the 4-1 water-acid wash and blew it out with a water hose but still getting the code. I am getting algea and no chlorine. The amber service light is on along with alternating flow, cell reversing and cell on. The system is 4 years old and has had no problems till about 2 months ago. I am so frustrated. The pool store said I probably need to buy a whole new system. ($$$) Should I buy a new cell or could it be something else? Also, it's a two port cell, If I need a new cell, should I try to find an old 2-port or upgrade to the three?

    Thanks for your anticipated help.

    Timbo

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