danster44

I just did a quick google search, is this it, or are you looking for multi-color led? http://www.ledlight.com/par56-led-light-11-watt.aspx That looks like it will work - not quite the brightness of my 300W bulbs, but the energy savings would be tremendous -- thanks for the link -- these look worth trying.

I'm guessing you mean 120 volt and not 12 volt. No I mean 12 volt - when we had the pool built, I did not want 120V lighting opting for 12V instead -- safety issue.

Was it a Run capacitor or a Start capacitor? I would guess it is both, but apparently to cause an overheating issue it must be a "run cap" -- it is absolutely amazing: pump ran all night without stopping on the high setting with the new CAP. So I have a $20 fix to a perplexing issue, but I had to figure this out -- nowhere does anyone allude to this phenomenon -- I just figured this (change CAP) was something I could do before I called out an expert. Was there anything abnormal about the appearance of the cap? Did it look swollen or were any of the terminals burnt? Also, did you happen to test the cap with a meter or anything? No -- the old CAP looked very "normal" -- I did shunt the contacts to make sure it was discharged before I removed the connections -- I don't know if the capacitor material is liquid or film, but there was no evidence of any "leakage" -- I wonder if the prior month 30 day string of 100+ degree days had an effect on the CAP??? Anyway, replacing the CAP restored my system to normal operation. Just FYI: I run 3 hrs on HIGH and 8.5 hrs on LOW -- pump comes on @ 7 AM every morning.

Was it a Run capacitor or a Start capacitor? I would guess it is both, but apparently to cause an overheating issue it must be a "run cap" -- it is absolutely amazing: pump ran all night without stopping on the high setting with the new CAP. So I have a $20 fix to a perplexing issue, but I had to figure this out -- nowhere does anyone allude to this phenomenon -- I just figured this (change CAP) was something I could do before I called out an expert.

My pool has (2) 300 Watt / 12 Volt PAR56 bulbs -- I would like to replace these INCANDESCENT PAR56 with LED PAR56 -- does anyone know a good source? I will pay up to $125 apiece if I find the right product.

I converted my pump to a 2 speed unit last year by installing a 2 speed motor (1.5 HP) and an Intermatic digital controller -- by my calculations probably knocked about $40 off my monthly utility bill because we now run most of the time on the low setting (1/4 HP). Anyway, fast forward to 14 months later (this month) and the motor has been turning off (apparently from the thermal cutoff for overheating) -- well I've searched for troubleshooting the issue, and the common 3 causes are 1) motor is getting old, failing 2) motor vents are clogged up 3) bad wiring connections. none of these proved to be the culprit -- so I changed the capacitor -- it appears that this has solved the problem. Just curious why no where in the web databases does anyone say that a faulty capacitor can cause the motor to overheat. Hope this helps someone in the future, before spending an arm & leg on a service call, and potentially a new motor.

company i purchased from exchanged the unit -- the replacement has worked flawlessly for months - it is a fantastic cleaner.

water temp??? Please explain -- I had a factory guy bring up water temp -- if water temp is an issue why would that not be advertised - I would not have bought the unit -- water is probably in the 42 -50 degree range EDIT: just went and checked water temp> its 55 degrees

Newbie here in Texas - just purchased a new Aquabot VIVA robotic cleaner -- yesterday, used it for the first time - no problems. Today, it runs for about 3-5 minutes and shuts off -- does not trip breaker, so I can turn it right back on. Very confused -- the unit power supply has 3 choices for run cycle: 1,2, or 3 hour. Anyone can shed light on this?