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pool tile

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  1. Well, I wouldn't say he's crazy, but I don't think it's a good idea. You'll have to fill in the hole where the pool was and landscape the area. Your house will be worth less. You'll have to hire a crane to remove the pool. You need a transport trailer and truck to move the pool shell. If you currently own the house in Florida, you should have the custom measured hole ready to receive the pool shell.

    I don't think it's economically feasible.

  2. You are correct, Newbie. In the early 1970s, I developed the materials and process for tiling fiberglass. I installed tile for Caldera spas, Cal Spas, Dimension One (Spa Store at the time) and about 12 spa installers. I was based in El Cajon California. In 1973 I got a call from San Juan in Hemet California. They wanted to subcontract tile installs on their pools. Every check they gave my, came from a corp. I don't remember the name. I think it was 1975 that George Sullivan and group bought the company. I installed tile for them until the 1980s, I traveled to Lakeland Florida and helped set up their tiling facility. They filed a bankruptcy in the 1980s. Of course, I stopped installing for they.

    George Sullivan did more for tile on fiberglass than anyone in the industry except me.

  3. A laser transit will get them within a 1/4" every time, assuming the bed is done right. 1.5" out of level has no excuses in my book.

    Scott

    I agree with you Scott. 1.5" is not good. Unfortunatly it is the norm that I've seen from California to Florida and up north.

    It's my openion that water is the best leveling tool. A clear plastic tube .5 inch wide X 40 feet long, filled with water can be used to level anything. It's used in several industries other than pools. It's what I use for leveling tile in pools. It only cost about $5.00.

  4. I've encountered your problem many times. The only job function my company does is tile fiberglass pools. Since 1980 we have tiled more than 10,000 fiberglass pools. Your problem is a result of tile being installed at the factory. Tile should be installed and water leveled after the pool is in the ground. The cantilever forms are then attached to the tile. When the deck is poured, everything is perfectly level.

    Your pool will not level itself. The solution is: Remove the tile, reinstall the tile water leveled, Pour the deck to the top of the level tile.

    The 200+ fiberglass pool installers we have worked for usually get the pool level to about 1 1/2 inches. The installer usually takes 6 or 8 level readings with a transit. When we tile the pool we put about 100 waterlevel marks on the pool to work from.

  5. I have terracotta coping tiles that I want to lay on my fiberglass pool. The fiberglass pool has a 1 meter boarder of concrete that was also layed under the fiberglass coping to help stop flexing. I was told to use a polyurethane adhesive/sealant to stick the copers down. Should I use the polyurethane on the entire coper even though the fiberglass section is only 10cm (4") wide? or can I apply the polyurethane to the first 10cm and then the rest in a normal flexable sand and cement type tile adhesive. using only the polyurethane would work out quite expensive as each tube is over $10 and I would need a tube per 30cm x 30cm tile. Any advise would be greatly appreciated, I am in Sydney Australia and am struggling to get information.

  6. I have seen several pictures from fiberglass pool websites with a tile laid OUTSIDE the (usually white) fiberglass coping of the pool. I like this look. I can't get my DH to agree to cantilever concrete, brick, or precast stone coping at all. I am anxious as my install is scheduled for just a little over a week away. I was wondering if I could sell him on the tile idea. What type of tile would this be?
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