david_bilton

no beachcomber will only to a beachcomber topside.it might be that the led's still work and just the back light is burnt out. some of the balboa topside controllers come apart so you can change the light(10226 panel light)

no beachcomber will only to a beachcomber topside.it might be that the led's still work and just the back light is burnt out. some of the balboa topside controllers come apart so you can change the light(10226 panel light)

put some tape on ends of 2 common screwdrivers and pop them off watch how they come off as they need to go back on that way

if you have a FP/SL gfci it may be the problem they have had the CSA rating pulled in CANADA because fo this type of issue

phone sundance and make sure you have the right board and also chech the revision it may have that hard wired and not set by jumpers. As for the vertical one that means that it is not used.thats all I got

What part of canada? I'm out on the west coast and work on sundance/jacuzzi now and find the jacuzzi to be the better of the 2 brands easier to work on and to install as well as the J-375 will use less energy that the sundance once the water is up to temp.

What part of canada? I'm out on the west coast and work on sundance/jacuzzi now and find the jacuzzi to be the better of the 2 brands easier to work on and to install as well as the J-375 will use less energy that the sundance once the water is up to temp.some

I have used this stuff for a couple of jobs and it does work.I have found that it works only on the pressure side,if you have a suction side issue that only leaks when the pump is of you are going to have to fix that one the hard way good luck

is this a gecko s class spa pac? take a look in the bottom right corner of the PC board if it has a little led lit up on the board you may have a hi limit issue or your board has a terminal error and is toast or your filters are dirt and need care good luck

no they are a good starter tub for some one unsure if they what to be hut tub people good luck and welcome to the forum

Try C-4 bigger bang for your buck

cut her my friend that is how i have done 3 of these things now and do not use a circular saw they make one hell of a mess jig saw or sawzall work best good luck

I fix strong spa's. they run Balboa pak that are easy to work on and I have had a couple of them open and they see like a good entry level spa. other that no in house support what's the problem? they are better that a coast spa IMO

check the capacitors on the board if the ands are swollen then the board is toast also pull out your filters and power up the spa dirty filters will sometimes do this also good luck

read your pump labels or look at the terminal bolck power conector if it has a red,black,white and ground and that will tell us/you what you have

That's the problem. It's a really old hot tub. It was delivered in 1994. The plywood floor isnt much of a floor anymore. The day it leaked, my kids had a sleepover and were playing in it for a while. They kept turning the jets on and off the whole time. It looks like it has stopped leaking. I'm wondering if pump is leaking. Like I said before, I hear a strange gurgling and see a large bubble every once in a while. Chances are that is the problem??? Unless its a loose line somewhere and thats where its releasing the air? look at the pump seal for a leak and do you have a floor drain? could one of the kids step on it and crack it? leaks can be a bugger 3 hours labour for a .30 part is a hard one to payfor good luck

stab loc/ fedarel pioneer gfci(if that is what you have)are junk. fi you pull the cable from the breaker and it stays set then reconnect them and then pull them from the spa terminals and it trips you may have a wire issue (rat chews are what i have found before to be the cause) keep us postedon what you find good-luck

I didn't mention names so you shouldn't have felt that I was singling you out which I might add I wasn't. And yes we all know about David B, the man has definite issues towards the Coast brand but I wasn't singling him out either though he does promote Jacuzzi when ever possible which I might add is a very good brand. This forum generally promote about 4/5 brands as the ones to buy, yet if you look at the threads which are started concerning a problem part or something not working then chances are nine times out of ten the thread is about these same heavily promoted brands. Personally I don't comment on other brands apart from the two I have personal experience with but I am intelligent enough to know that the top selling 10/12 brands are all decent tubs which do everything required of them with regards to heating the water, providing pulsing jet stimulation and are generally problem free, the real differences among them are possible cost of running and seat/jet arrangement. I think we are all of the opinion that first and foremost the dealer needs to be good for the whole ownership experience to run smoothly and continue to do so for years to come. Piss poor dealer leads to a horrible ownership experience and often leads to a hatred of a brand which might otherwise be pretty decent and has been a wonderful experience in someone else's hands. Dude if you are going to use my name please use all of it David_Bilton Thanks Dude

OK hears what the SUNDANCE tech book has to say about "watchdog" Watchdog,the hottub is deactivated(board thinks spa temp is 120 deg f)This is usally caused dy temp sensor.however,the PCB,control panel,hi-limit,x-former, clogged filters,blown F1 fuse(under 2 yellow wires),or electrical issue may cause this condition.also check the capasitors on the PCB if they look swollen(the ends are bulging)then it is the PCB.did you try powering down the spa for 5-10 minutes? what happens. another thing to try is to remove the temp and hi-limit sensors leads from the conector(mark down were they came from )and swith them ,then turn spa back on. what happens(make sure you put the leads back in the rite place when you have done this) also with the power off push gently on the chip marked "dalas"this thing runs yuor clock as well if it is loose it will cause all sorts of havok with the spa

OK hears what the SUNDANCE tech book has to say about "watchdog" Watchdog,the hottub is deactivated(board thinks spa temp is 120 deg f)This is usally caused dy temp sensor.however,the PCB,control panel,hi-limit,x-former, clogged filters,blown F1 fuse(under 2 yellow wires),or electrical issue may cause this condition.also check the capasitors on the PCB if they look swollen(the ends are bulging)then it is the PCB.did you try powering down the spa for 5-10 minutes? what happens. another thing to try is to remove the temp and hi-limit sensors leads from the conector(mark down were they came from )and swith them ,then turn spa back on. what happens(make sure you put the leads back in the rite place when you have done this)

its called watchdog call your tech he needs to visit you

I had written a lengthly answer to you and I just lost my whole post and I really don't have the time or energy to waste posting my answer to you again. Just know that the ALEX software system is notorious for over dosing on chemicals since it is designed to increase a dealer's bottom line and not balance your water. If your water is balanced the dealer cannot sell you anything. I will say that right now your total alkalinity is TOO HIGH at 143 and needs to be lowered, not raised. and that adding pH increaser (sodium carbonate) increases BOTH pH and total alkalinity. You need to test BOTH pH and TA after ajusting either one and you need to know which chemical you need to adjust them. Alkalinity increaser-Sodium bicarbonate (aka sodium hydrogen carbonate) will raise TA and will cause pH to move to around 8.0 as carbon dioxide gases off but is not very useful when the pH is very low pH increaser-Sodium carbonate will raise pH when it is very low BUT is also raises TA faster than sodium bicarbonate. However, when the pH is below 7.0 the TA is also going to be very low! (unless you aerate to outgas CO2 which also raises pH but does not have any effect on TA Borax (sodium tetraborate, which is also sold in pool/spa supplies--Your Bioguard dealer used to sell Optimizer, which was just expensive borax, now the sell optimizer plus which is a mixture of borax and boric acid to be more pH neutal) raises pH but has minimal effect on TA. It will cause it to rise slightly and is dosed at twice the amount of sodium carbonate for the same pH rise. Have you added sodium bromide to create your bromide bank? From your readings I would have to say no. If you do not create a bromine reserve on filling then, depending on whether you are using BCDMH or DBDMH bromine tablets you either are running a chlorine spa for the first several weeks or you have a spa that will not maintain a proper bromine level for several weeks. Did you test your water after each addition of chemicals you made? I am assuming no and I do not think you have a test kit since you did not answer my previous questions. Good luck with your spa, you will need it. BTW, your problem is not that you started with SoftSoak, you started without a gameplan and even now you don't want to follow a sound one. Have you even replaced the filters? This is a NECESSARY step when converting from biguanide to halogens. Alex and all the rest of them are all the same programed to sell chems

I've got 2 floor models that use spa sentry and 5-6 out in the world and none of them have had this issue. spa sentry is a good product .

Gotta love you Coast Folk & your 5hp pumps. A real full rated 5hp motor for pools & spas is about 2.5 times the size & weighs about 3 times as much than whats in a coast. The 5hp true rating is a 4.4hp pump.Like the 4hp waterway exec. thats used on most only being true rating of a 2.5hp pump. Everyone rates there pumps from the pumps and not soo much from the motor. Its a 5hp impellor thats in the wetend and on a 5hp waterway exec. its a 5hp impellor and its using 4.6amps on low. So its more about the low amp draw on low speed rather than the hp rating. as a coast spa factory trained tech for 8 years i have had many of these yellow 5 hp pumps open and when they are put back together we use a W/W 4hp impeller. they run 1.4 amp low speed and 12.0 on hi speed.just more smoke and mirror from coast It's a 5hp Waterway exec. impellor. Put it side by side to a 4hp impellor and you will see the discharge is a wider gap than a 4hp. If your putting a 4hp impellor in a 5hp pump your not going to get the same GPM but however the pump will require less amps as it wont have to work as hard to reach its desired rpm. The amp draw is 1.2/14. on this one my friend you could be wrong coast spa uses a franklin motor that is yellow and burns 12.0 amp on high speed it comes with a 4hp impeller in it (replaced many)and they call it a 5 Just like the "monster flow 7.0 hp" that i did today it only uses a 5 hp W/W impeller

its called a strip skimmer retail cdn 27.40