Kona

I was wondering if anyone has a favorite phosphate removal product. I've been looking at: Natural Chemistry Phosfree and SeaKlear Phosphate Remover SeaKlear claims to do a much better job, but I don't know if that is just a claim or not. Anyone ever used this? Thanks, Jeff

From doing some additional reading, I found that even though it states THHN on the product label, if you look at the wire coating itself, it will say thhn / thwn.

Is it relatively easy to find THWN wire? I would have thought Lowe's would carry this. That's why I was wondering if the THHN would be OK, but it doesn't sound like it. I can try some local electrical supply shops. Thanks, Jeff

Thanks again for the replies. I did verify that it is a 240 V circuit using the multimeter. I went out to buy wire today. There seems to be some ambiguity around the need for THWN versus THHN wire. Lowes, for instance, had mostly THHN. They only had 1 THWN, which was 14 gauge. I was wondering is it OK to use THHN instead of THWN. I've read on some sites that they are basically one in the same these days. Is that true? The THHN at Lowe's doesn't say anything on it about THWN. Also, should I stick to the same wire thickness that the pump uses even though the Aquarite draws very little current? The pump is using either #10, or #12. Do you think I should use the same for the Aquarite? Also, should the ground be the same size wire as the hot wires? Lastly, I was wondering exactly where I should bond the Aquarite to? Would it be ok just to bond it to the circuit box? I can't tell exact where the pump bonds to. It's bond wire goes along the ground towards the circuit box, but then disappears underground. It is not encased, which I'm assuming is fine for bonding.

Thanks guys. This makes me feel a lot more comfortable moving forward with this.

Here are a few photos - one of circuit box, 2 of timer. http://s919.photobucket.com/home/jeff775533/set/6585 My timer wiring seems to be just like this one: http://www.swimmingpooltimeswitch.com/imag...ms/bg-Cd104.gif Thanks for any advice on this, Jeff

@BillinKingstonSprings - thanks for the response. There are 2 poles coming into the circuit breaker at the bottom (running in parallel) that go into a small box, then to a thicker pole that goes into the ground. Where the lines coming from the circuit breaker come into the timer box, there is a black, a red, and a ground (green). The black wire goes to the first "Line" terminal of the timer. The red wire goes to the other "Line" terminal. Each of these "Line" terminals also has a neutral (white) wire that is somewhat hard to see where they end up. From the "Load' terminals, there is 1 red wire from each "Load" that go to the pump (in addition to the ground). I'm assuming that each of these "red" is 120 V for a total of 240 V, but not certain if I'm correct.

I'm going to be installing an aquarite salt water chlorinator later this week. Seems easy enough. The only thing that I'm unsure of is whether my circuit is 120 or 240 volts. The jumpers on the aquarite control box need to be placed differently depending on the circuit voltage. Is there any easy way to determine this? If I need a multimeter, which type would I need in able to determine this. I have one (actron cp7672), but it's for automotive use. Thanks for any suggestions, Jeff

I was wondering if anyone can provide me with advice on mounting a Hayward Goldline AquaRite control box to a cement wall. It didn't come with any mounting pieces. Can I just mount it using KwikTap concrete screws, or is there a certain type of screw/bracket used for these? It looks like it's intended to "drop onto" screws because of the larger sized hole opening at the top of each screw hole. I don't have a fence, and thus have a lot of concern about theft as it seems that it would be very easy for someone just to take it off and be on their way. Let me know any thoughts you have on this. Thanks, Jeff