MattMoe

Thank you very much for taking the time to help/respond. we plan to follow your advice. Happy Holidays.

Forgot to mention that we do plan on switching to Clorox bleach after getting CYA to 30ppm. Also just thought of something, if we need to lower TA could we add MPS and then aerate to raise pH back up.

Forgot to mention that we do plan on switching to Clorox bleach after getting CYA to 30ppm.

Ok, we drained the tub, and rinsed the filter. I also cleaned away any water line (very minimal) visible with celo sponge that had soft scub side to it. After tub was full and heated for a little while my husband added 1 oz of Dichlor, and tub was only at 75 degrees. Again we have 395 gallon tub, plus an ozonator.and a spa frog sitting in first filter bin. So now our reading shows the following, but since we are just starting he did not measure CYA, since he said it is still low: Well by calc notTaylor K-2006 test kit measurement- FC 10, CYA 11 ByTaylor K-2006 Test kit: TA 110 CH 70 Ph 7.4 CSI -0.57 I have read on here that the ideal TA is 50-60 ppm and CH is 150 ppm, and pH 7.4-7.8, CYA 20-30 ppm, FC 3-6 ppm everyday, and bump up to 12 ppm once a week. So our question is do you agree with those suggestions and would the TA change on it's own over the next several days as water temp increases and the process of adding portions of the total calculated 91 grams of Dichlor, in order to get our CYA to 30ppm and FC to 3-6ppm. Or another way to ask this is should we adjust the TA now or after we get CYA and FC to recommended levels; by doing Muriatic acid and aeration method (mentioned on this forum). Plus can we leave the CH where it's at or should we increase it with a Calcium Hardness increaser by SpaGuard, and if so at what point (like after we get CYA and FC to correct levels). Also if we use the tub while trying to get the CYA to 30ppm do we need to add even more Dichlor than the 91 grams, if so how much for our 395 gallon tub/ per person for 1/2 hour soaks.

We have had our Hot Tub since Dec 10th, just got the Taylor 2600 Test kit on the 23rd, prior to that we were testing with a basic Taylor kit (5 drops for each) the Chlorine and pH and it would be all over the place, since we were just adding Dichlor product up to 2 capfuls a day. Not sure of exact measurement. Any how now after using Taylor Test kit this is where we are at and I am concerned that our CYA is way to high (off the scale above 100) and could cause damage to Spa heater and other components, also from what I've read on here the TA and CH are also to high. Note: The company that set us up with Spa did not go over spa chemical regimen correctly. Although, with our below readings the Pool Calculator (referred to on this forum many times) says our CSI is 0.02, which my husband says is good and we don't need to worry about the CYA, or high TA. Please inform as to what we should do, like drain half (or all) the water out and refill? now that we have read this forum (after the fact of this first fill) we know how to do it right from the get go. But at the point we are at now we are unsure if there is a way to fix this, or is everything ok as my husband thinks it is. He plans on adding the Clorox Bleach as needed (and as calculated by the Pool Calculator) since we will measure the FC and CC, and pH everyday. 395 Gallons, 98 degrees, but 100 degrees two hours out of the day. Bathing daily two adults, and 3 times a week to children. No suntan lotion, we live in Tucson and Spa is under covered patio and not getting sunlight. All in ppm FC 4.5 pH 7.6 TA 190 CH 80 no test on borate or salt done CYA (off scale) logged as 100

We had our pools built by Patio Pools and are neighbor had the same brand above ground spa from them for 3yrs now with no issues. All the other brands recommended on here (Hot Springs, etc) were to expensive or did not have the comfort collar jets that we really wanted, except for one from Costco (the Strong Evolution CSXi 80). We felt it would be better to have a local service provider and a company we felt had done a good job for us on our pool, in case of the very issue we just had. So our question now is about Mildew growing inside the cabinet due to the leak, does anyone think we should open a side panel up and let it dry out for an hour or two (or more)? The leak has not shown up again so the guy fixed it. MattNMoe I am not a tech, but it appears Patio Pools & Spas are responsive to your issue(s). Curious...why did you choose Maxx Spas? I asked because they were in my final three....Maxx, Bullfrog and Artiesan. We choose Bullfrog from Simply Spas.

Update: The service guy came early, and I just arrived back hm when he was closing up the side where the leak was. He said the leak was where they clamped the tube that they had to cut to install the ozonator, and that it was not glued down like it should have been, so he said he did a new clamp and glued it, but I could not see his work. I asked him if he could actually see the leaking (dripping water) when he opened it up, and he said yes. I also asked him if there would be any mildew building up in the cabinet area due to this water leak or if it would effect the insulation and he said no and that there are drain holes for the water to get out under the silver liner at bottom of cabinet and that actually leaving it running and heater on would dry it up faster. What are the repair guys on here thoughts on his answers? I did get to look on the inside of cabinet where the control panel and pumps and heaters where and feel in there and there was no water puddled up in there, I also felt over by where the water was seeping out of the spa onto pad, and the top of liner was dry, but I could feel when I pressed on it some water on the underside of it. He also said it might be a day or two before all the water drains out and dries up. So we will not know for sure if that was the only cause of the leak. But of course they'll come out again if it's still leaking (at no charge).

We just had our new Maax 470 delx series Spa delivered yesterday, we live in Tucson, AZ. The Spa was an empty never filled floor model, and they took it out of building afternoon before delivery date, so it was sitting outside overnight. There was water (like 1 gallon) in wells of seats, I asked the deliv guys how this happened and they said their was frost on it this morning since it sat outside overnight. They set up the spa and there is a leak (lost 1/2in from 2PM yesterday to 8AM today). I turned the spa off, it ran through a 2 hr filtration cycle and was heating throughout night- since the set up guys left it like this- even knowing it was leaking, they could not find the leak (there service dept is coming out today to look at the issue). Does anyone in repair business think that even though there was not a freeze the night it sat out, that it could have had some type of damage due to cold weather (38degrees)? Also the set up guy said there was about 1/8 in of water on bottom of interior at 2PM yesterday (they closed it up so don't know what it is now), there is not a full blown-in insulation on this tub, but there is a little sprayed in around the base of the tub and a reflective like insulation material on the bottom of tub cabinet (inside that is) then the tub shell itself has insulation foam (thin layer sprayed on it) the water may be touching the bottom portion and I read on here something about this effecting the R value. Does anyone think I should just ask for another tub, or is the tub going to be fine if they can find and fix leak easily. ALso if they find the leak and fix it should we keep tub turned off and leave the side panels off for a day or two to let this tub air out and dry or should we close it up to protect from cold weather (no freeze expected just cold). We bought it from a local company - Patio Pools and they are having a service guy come out, but not until 1-3PM today. Side Note, all jets and pumps and controller is working fine, well except for one jet, that we didn't notice until after set up guys left. Moe