Asfyxiate

Hey guys, here's a tricky one that's been mind boggling, it's more about the hot tubs than the pool, but... I run an inground pool as well as 2 inground hot tubs. The flow rate on the hot tub use to be 100 GPM. With about 10 PSI on the sand filter. I've recently noticed that it's actually gone down to 75 GPM, and still 10 PSI. So I did a backwash, cleaned out the skimmer baskets as well as the strainer basket at the pump. None of which were terribly dirty. At this point I've noticed the skimmers have next to no suction. I changed the multiport valve to re-circulate and the flow rate went up to 120 GPM, so I decided to let that sit overnight. The next morning I found that the flow rate is down to about 30 GPM. I switched back to Filtering and currently have 0 flow, and 3-5 PSI. Any insight on what is happening? ***Edit*** Also I meant to mention that bubbles are visible from the return jets.

Hey guys, Just looking for opinions on how you clean your cartridge filters. I've tried a various amount of different ways with more or less success. I'm also looking to see if it's alright to soak/use a weak HCl (acid magic) solution on it. As always, I appreciate the advice.

Hey guys, I've looked around and can't really find a good solution to my problem. I run 4 spas and 1 outdoor pool. For the most part the pH is 7.5-7.9. But the Alk can vary from 40-60ppm. We use cal-hypo in the pool and the 2 outdoor spas, and sodium hypochlorite in the 2 indoor spas. We use HCl to lower and sodium bicarbonate to raise. Other info: Make up water tends to have high numbers. Automatic feeders and controllers (although I do use FAS-DPD) TOR for the pool is 4 1/2 hrs. TOR for the outdoor spas 30 mins TOR for the indoor spas 20 mins. CYA in the outdoor pool/spas - 20ppm Pool temp 88F Spas 102-104F All bodies of water circulate 24hrs Any advice, or ideas would be highly appreciated. Thanks. *Sorry posted to the wrong thread* Moved to Hot Tub Water Chemistry by Moderator

Dang. I was really hoping to find an answer. I wish they at least would give the option of lengthening the allotted time you get. Thanks anyway! As for the new vacuum, guess I'll have to convince my boss to get one.

On the hotel's inground/indoor pool we had to install what's called a Stingl, for those who don't quite know, basically it cuts off the power to the pump if it detects any slight difference in suction. That's how I'd sum it up at least. Anyways, as you can image it's kinda a pain to vacuum and drain the pool with this thing. There's a "maintenance" feature which allows an allotted 30 minutes to do your business and then it shuts off the pump unless you switch it back on. During those 30 minutes an extremely annoying and audible alarm is being played so you "don't forget". Skipping to my question, does anybody have any idea how to bypass this thing so that when I close off a skimmer to vacuum it doesn't quit? Unfortunately my boss if the kind of guy who doesn't read/kind manuals and I'd also like to hear what other peoples experiences with them are.

I've taken a quick look around and didn't really find an answer to my question, so I was hoping some of you may be able to help me out, with what is hopefully a simple question. When I go to vacuum the pool I've always had it set to filter, but I've heard that it's better to just set it to "waste". Aside from the direct loss of water, is this really the better way to vacuum?

Hey guys, I've been scanning this site for about a week so far and I've finally decided to join up. Anyways, I work in a hotel so I frequently am working with the reagents in the Taylor Kit. We actually use the K-2005 Complete (high) and that tests everything we need to know. I thought I overheard my boss saying it was about $65 or so, so you are right, it isn't cheap. As to answer your question - '"How long is the shelf life of my reagents?" is a frequent question. Unfortunately, there is no definitive answer. Some reagents will last indefinitely while others have a limited shelf life. Properly recapping the reagent after use along with storing reagents away from treatment chemicals will help prolong shelf life. There are certain rules that can assist in determining the quality of a given reagent. 1) In general, colored reagents have a shorter shelf life than colorless ones. 2) Oxidizing or recuding reagents (often contained in brown bottles) are prone to shorter shelf live. 3) In most cases acids and bases last indefinitely.' That is stated in the Pool & Spa Water Chemistry book provided by Taylor. Hope this helps a bit.