lkneisler
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Posts posted by lkneisler
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Well... the heater reset had in fact tripped. Meanwhile the 30 amp breaker had tripped again also.
I shut off both breakers and reset the heater (pushed in the reset button). Flipped on the 20 then flipped on the 30. So far so good.
But then I hear this popping noise. It takes a few seconds from the time I turn on the 30 amp breaker til I hear the popping, and the popping persists a second or two after I shut off the 30 amp breaker. So I'm thinking it's water and overheating - BUT the circ. pump is running fine, there's water flow and bubbles... can the heater still be getting low or no water flow? Now I'm really stumped.
Oh, and the continuity - I pulled the heater leads off and didn't get a zero, but it stays around 1. I thought it should be like 10 or 12. But then I didn't unscrew the ground wire - does that matter? I was anxious to leave cos the owners were understandably upset.
Lori
After some reading and a few phone calls...
I'm gong to vote that the electrician didn't know what he was doing - tried to figure out why the 30 amp breaker wouldn't stay set - and somehow dry fired the heater.
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That should not damage the heater. Were the circuit board pin jumpers and the terminal power jumpers changed?
Good suggestion - I'll check
Is the circulation pump pushing water?Yes, perfectly
That heater should have a reset button on it. It is on top under a piece of clear tape in a hole about nickle size. If it's tripped you will feel a click when you push on it.I didn't think it had one! I hope that's what it is.
As Pickngrin said - test voltage to the heater - you can then test continuity on the heater leads and if you get none check that reset button.The voltage was good - I didn't know the spa wasn't heating til the next day, so I didn't check for no continuity.
Definitely put the ground where it should be.Yep. Did that.
The 30 amp breaker only runs the heater. The 20 amp the rest of the spa. Make sure they are GFCI breakers.One other simple thing FIRST - make sure it's not set on Summer Timer - a little switch on the right side of the control box. This will turn off the circulation pump and the heater for 8 hours.
The circ pump was on and pushing water & bubbles just fine.
Thank you guys for the help and suggestions! I'll keep my fingers crossed that it's just a reset button. I'm supposed to go back there in the morning.
Lori
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Got my used hot tub wired and filled with water, when I started one of the pumps there was a water leak. It appears to me the seal around where the motor shaft enters the pump is most likley bad. The pump is marked Jacuzzi Mod. S35A9-B Gatsby, Order 94216967, Manufacutre Date 16 March 01. Searching the Net I can't find any pump overhaul kits that reference by that model or order number. Any suggestions? Thanks.
What Roger said is easiest; pull the pump and take it to a motor shop that works on pool and spa equipment.
What you're looking for is one of these guys: http://www.aquasuperstore.com/SearchResult...?CategoryID=108
You'd have to take your motor out, take off the front of the wet end (pump), try to get the impeller off - 1/2 of the time the impeller breaks - unscrew the 4 really long bolts that holds the pump onto the motor, then replace the seal, and put it all back together again.
I hope this helps!
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I have an early 2000's Catalina spa that I bought used about a year and a half ago. It has a Balboa Cat 200 control board, 2 pumps, one two speed and a single speed, electronic topside control, 2" stainless heater.
Last week I got the error message "FLO" on the display. I ordered a new pressure sensor and just installed it, nothing changed. The display still says "FLO" then flashes to to 44 (degrees), then COOL, then back to FLO and so on. Nothing on the spa works, pumps, lights, stereo etc. I already pulled the filters out and the spa still didnt work.
About 4 days before the spa stopped working, I found a towell stuck on one of the suction fittings. Could this have caused the problem? Im wondering if the towel impeding flow caused a pump failure. I checked for power on both pumps and I have 123 to 125 volts on each terminal. So the pumps are receiving power. Is there a way to see if the pumps work? Also, there is a red light on, on the Balboa control board which may be caused by the FLO error, or does it mean something else?
I live in Denver and its getting cold and I'm worried about the thing freezing up and causing more problems. So if I cant get it fixed soon I'm going to drain it. I would appreciate ANY help, suggestions, or experiences!
Thanks!!!
If you have power going to the motors and the motors aren't working, AND the wires are not fried, I'd say you can safely assume the motors need to be serviced or replaced. If you're a do-it-yourselfer, call your pool and spa guys and see if they can recommend a good motor service shop.
If there is no water flow, then you're going to get a flow error.
Do you have power going to your spa light? Stereo? Check for blown fuses? - there's a diverter/converter/black box thing for the stereo that has a fuse you can check. Otherwise, unfortunately, the board could be toast. And it could even be in addition to, or unrelated to, the towel indecent; like a power surge or lightning.
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Someone once told me that if your pillows are still in tact and have no holes through them or corrosion of the interior, that you could have them re-dipped (if that is the right term) and then they will have a nice surface to them again, for lots less than new pillows. New pills are about $60 a piece (I have 2) and mine simply are not as dark as they once were and have lots of wrinkles in them. Should I just buy new ones or is there some service out there that specializes in this for cheaper?
We buy the spray on dip. It's a plastic coating for your tool handles. You can buy it at a hardware store, usually in black. Look where the regular spray paint is sold.
Dry out the pillows and spray on the dip. One good coat is enough. Let them dry for a day or two (depends on the weather) and they'll look like brand new!
If your spa cover rubs on the tops of the pillows it probably won't last long, otherwise we've had ours for over a year and they still look perfect.
We also moved a spa we sold a while ago and had spray dipped the pillows - they still looked perfect as well.
Hope this helps!
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My Maax spa is getting an HL error code. I recently had new bearings and seals in the circ. pump and it seems to be working so I doubt it is a flow problem.
How often do these HL sensors go? And can they be tested?
HL sounds like a high limit error - where your spa thinks it's 118 or so degrees.
If the water is moving like it should, isn't too hot, and you get the error, then replace the high limit sensor.
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Good morning!
I just looked at a 230 volt install of a used hot spring sovereign, 1997. The 30 amp breaker wouldn't set; it tripped immediately.
The electrician put the ground wire from the disconnect box under a screw that was directly under the ground wire connection for the heater instead of in the #7 position as shown in the wiring diagram on the control box lid.
Would that miswire cause damage to the heater?
The spa heat perfectly at the last house, but now it's not heating at the new house. The breaker stays set, the heat LED is on, there is correct power going to the heater leads.
Thanks!
Lori
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It is, it just unscrews. Make sure you grab it by the base close to where it screws in, otherwise the whole jet just twists and it may not be as easy.
Thank you Dan.The.Spa.Man!
I broke it
It must be really stuck cos I couldn't get it to budge at all. It did twist right off in my hand too! So now the end is stuck in there. I'll try some vice grips or something creative. Thanks again! Lori -
After disconnecting the little air tube, how do you get the jet off/out? I thought it was supposed to be "so easy".
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I pulled the filter, it looked like it was full of a bunch of slimey looking crap. the light did not come on. Do i need to run the jets or just let it run in the filtering mode. it constantly runs all day anyway.
thanks
I'm not a patient person so with the filter still out I'd run the jets on high to make sure there's no 'crap' in the lines then shut off the breaker and turn it back on.
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Installed the new spa pack all worked out great she is up and running so with all new parts a deck and running the power I have a good spa for about a $1000 .. I will take a photo with the finished skirts tomorrow. Just waiting on the new cover
Thanks for the help
John
You are quite the trooper! Good job and I hope you get to enjoy your spa for a long, long time!!
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If the heat light isn't going on then the spa is not calling for heat. That could be a flow error usually cause by dirty filters or the flow switch needing to be adjusted or replaced.
Of if you have a circulation pump it might not be working, but I don't think Cal Spa uses circ pumps.
Pull your filter(s) and run your spa for a little while to see if that resolves the problem; where you'll see the heat light on.
If you still have no heat light and no heat then you need to identify where the flow switch is and check to see if it has continuity when the pump is running on low speed. Let me know if you need help with this.
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Your spa may be "ozone ready" where there is a clear tube to connect to using a check valve. Sometimes it's obvious, sometimes it's mostly buried in the sprayed on insulation/foam. In any case, it would be in the equipment area near the access panel.
If it's not ozone ready then this might help:
http://www.hottubessentials.com/installing_ozonators.htm It's a little over-complicated but it has diagrams and examples and we're told it's useful.
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All of a sudden my spa will not heat abouve 90. The only thing i can remember i did was take a screw out of a drain looking thing in the bottom because the little cover was broke and i didnt want someone stepping on the screw. That shouldnt affect anything ahould it ?
Let me know if you have any ideas.
Thanks
Its a 2000 cal spa i believe.
Is your heat indicator light on - on the top side control panel?
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A local dealer had it for $350 as well. Any ideas on places where I might be able to find that for a lot cheaper?
PM me please
Hello Roger, got the same problem and discovered my warranty has just elapsed. Any recommendations on where I could procure a replacement control panel at a decent price?
If I can't get something wholesale, I mostly go to these guys. Very knowledgeable and really good prices. http://actionsparepair.com/control-panels8.html
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I have a 99 Tiger River Bengal. I have a couple of minor leaks for which I would like to try Fix-a-Leak. It says it can plug leaks up to 1/8 inch diameter. What would keep it from plugging the small holes in the heater return fitting in the bottom of the tub. They don't look bigger than 1/8 inch.
It's like hemoglobin
Excellent product, by the way. Nice choice. I hope it works for your particular leak! -
I forgot... does your spa have the big giant plug thing for the power, that looks like a dryer plug? I guess checking the power would be a little bit different in that case, and if you don't feel confident then do call the electrician! I would shut off the power, pull the plug out just enough to get the meter probes on there, turn the power back on then start checking the different plug ends to see which is hot and which is ground or neutral... just be careful.
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Are these things fixable, or is pretty much a matter of replacing the whole thing? How difficult is it to replace the thing myself? (I have some electrical experience and a very, very little bit of plumbing experience)... should I just hire someone to come and fix the thing? (This goes out to you, Hillbilly Hot Tub!) Please advise, as winter is just around the corner and I'd rather not be out there fixing the damn thing in a foot of snow (or hiring some poor soul to do it for me in the same!) Thanks in advance-
Tony
Hi Tony. If your motor is craping out, yes, I'm so technical, then you can get it fixed as opposed to replaced, IF you can find a good motor repair shop that is familiar with pool and spa pumps.
Using a volt meter you should check the power going in to the hot tub though. Just to be sure it's not something weird. You want to see at least 220 volts; 110 on ground and red, 110 on ground and black; 220 on red and black. If you're not getting proper power, then shut off the spa and call an electrician.
If you are getting proper power, call your local pool and spa maintenance people, they should be able to give you some motor repair shop referrals.
If you remove the spa panel on the side where the motor is (see your manual for a picture), then you'll see the motor, and the two unions attached to it, and how easy it looks to do this yourself
Power off the spa of course, then unplug your pump from the control box. There are slice valves to shut off the water flow so you shouldn't have to drain your spa... unless it's going to freeze. Unscrew the two unions on the font and top and you're off and running.
Have the motor fixed and pump seal replaced. Spend a lot less than buying a new pump/motor. Put it all back together, job done! You're a hero!
[details]
If the unions are too tight to turn by hand, I use an oil filter wrench to get the unions off, but then I'm a girly and not so strong. When my husband steals the filter wrench, I use a big flat head screw driver on one of the ridges and tap GENTLY with a hammer. They are supposed to be hand tight though.
You could also check to make sure no critter has made a new home inside your spa and started chewing on things.
Have you had your spa a while, I mean, where the motor would be going bad already? Is there still a warranty? Or did that bite the dust when Gulf Coast did?
Maybe a manufacture's warranty on the motor? All they need is the label. You pay whatever difference there is on the pro rated warranty and poof, new motor shipped.Let us know what happens!
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My local spa shop had the correct Hi=limit sensor so I replaced it. Guess what, nothing changed same problem! So I'm at a loss it may be time to call in a tec or order a new board.
Can anyone confirm that the Hi- limit sensor when tested with a meter should be closed? The new tested out as "open" as does the old one.
John
Yeah, with the sensors you get resistance readings, not open or closed continuity sort of readings - and even then it doesn't work so great cos the wires/connectors are so tiny.
Did you call someone out or order a new board? No one ever wants to tell you to get a new board. Probably cos their expensive and it's hard to suggest doing it.
I cheaped out big time on a control board and switched two components around instead of replacing the board. But shoot - A new board costs $300 with tax and shipping! There are some DIY people who will suggest replacing a relay (or something) instead of the board. I don't know enough about those kind of details.
I hope whatever you choose to do works out right for you!
Lori
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Model 6500-301 Low Flow Heater - Sundance
SS housing - sealed
I found a few on other web site but figured I would give this board a shot if anyone has this heater hanging around.
Thanks for looking.
Cav
Those are hot items! I usually get $125 on ebay when I have one. Right now I don't. I like to get parts here: http://www.spaandpoolsource.com/ they seems to have the best prices... plus free shipping on sundance parts.
Good luck!
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To lkneisler...sorry we are so new at this we have no idea what we are doing. Yes we do have standard mode, sleep mode, and economy mode. It is my understanding that in economy mode, it only heats it to our set temp when it is filtering...does that sound right? And standard mode keeps it at our set temp all the time? So if we switch to economy, the tub would not always be ready for us temp wise...in your opinion, do you think economy is the way to go or standard? Anybody have any thoughts on this?
Thanks all for your replies...we are still learning everyday!!
Congratulations on the new spa!
Yes, you are absolutely correct about the modes and how it heats.
Everyone pretty much has a different thought on temp settings and modes. It sound like it really depends on where you live; if it nice weather, or if it gets really cold in the winter.
Most important is just trying the different modes and finding out what works best for you guys!
For example, if you run your spa in economy mode, where it's only heating when it filters, then it is possible you could lose too much heat in between filter cycles and it just won't work out for you. Then again, you may not lose that much heat and it'll be fine.
If you use the spa around the same time of the night/day, then program your filter cycles to be finished around the time you're going to use the spa. That way it's up to temp when you're ready to use it.
Have fun!
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A very new hot tub owner, Artesian Antigua. We are told by dealer that jet 1 will run on low whenever the tub is heating and shut down when desired temp is reached. It just seems that it is running all the time on low and isn't necessarily only running when the "heat" icon is on. Anyone have any experience with this? The owner's manual really isn't helpful at all. Thanks.
Oh dear. Do you have the "ThinkPak" controls? No economy mode cos it's too smart for that? If so, then program it to filter only 1 hour a day. Your spa is going to be filtering plenty as it runs all day and night to keep the temperature at your set temp, and to check-in on itself periodically.
However, you're not supposed to worry about the electrical bill cos when you spa is filtering, it's heating at 5.5 kw, when it's maintaining temp is 1.5kw.
Now that's what I knew about it a year a half ago. It might have changed, but from what you're saying it doesn't sound like it.
Mfg. testing showed it's the most energy efficient thing on the market, but their test environment was in climate controlled building I'm sure. Me, cynical? Not at all
Please let me know what you find in your manual, I'm very interest. Thanks!
Lori
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Thanks for reply...originally, the jet kept running and yes, it thought it was in filter mode which is supposed to be from 8:00 - 10:00 a.m. and then again at 8:00 - 10:00 p.m. This was 2:00 in the afternoon. We shut the power down (per the dealer) and let it reset itself...checked the filter times again, and so far, it seems to only run when heating. It just seems that it is heating alot and I am worried about the electric bill!! We have it set at 103...is this too high (because it sure doesn't feel too high). Thanks again.
See if your spa has an economy mode, where it only heats when it's filtering. Look at the top side control panel functions in your owner's manual.
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BTW, what is the chip # on the board you're looking for?
His chip is FREE20R1B
Help Identifying, So Can Order Parts
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
You don't want to replace the wet end unless it's absolutely necessary. It matches up with the existing plumbing on your spa. That's all that matters, really; that the wet end matches up with your plumbing. And on a Jacuzzi that may not be so easy to do. It also needs to match up with the hp of your motor, obviously.
Jacuzzi is very proprietary. There is one guy that posts on here sometimes who knows about the finer details. Maybe He'll pitch in to help if you've really got your heart set on replacing things.
What's your primary objective here; saving money, having a project, reducing your spa downtime... ?