doctauri

Unfortunately, that's what got me here. I bought this used 3 years ago for $1500. It's been fine since, until searching for this leak. Given that, if I don't rebuild, I will probably buy new. Thanks.

I have a 2005 HotSpring Vanguard that developed a small leak. I called the [semi]local repair company out. First he complained that it wasn't a Jetsetter (which we previously had, but apparently their records weren't updated), and was too heavy for him to move around to easily access. So, he took off a panel near where we saw water, and found that termites had eaten the frame. He went on how it was the worst infestation he'd ever seen, and so on. However he'd only pulled off one set of panels (about 18", from top to bottom). He stopped there, said it was probably not worth it, and that to repair the damage would be between $2500 and $3000. He then went on to tell me that he'd make me a good deal on a floor model if I wanted. That was back on November 30. So, I resolved myself to needing a new spa and went searching. Found a good deal, and was ready to order. Today, I moved the old Vanguard out to clean up and make an electrical change, when I decided to pull the rest of the panels off on that side. So there's no doubt, the termites have eaten the frame on one end, however, once you get to the corners, the wood is untouched. I'm thinking the repair is not nearly as bad as the service tech made it out. I'm not sure if he was just trying to push a sale, or what, but I think I'm going to try to repair it. So I have a couple of question: 1) In removing the old half eaten wood, it appears that the panels are meant to pop on/off or slide in/out (think push into place then slide to the right). The fact that the panels can be purchased as an entire piece tends to support this (http://www.backyardplus.com/proddetail.php?prod=W73012). Can someone tell me how to remove the panels? 2) It appears that the frame is more to give the panels something to attach to than structural, is this true? 3) Once I've pulled out the destroyed foam and rebuilt the frame (and fixed the leak), what do I use to replace the foam insulation? Spray foam looks to be ridiculously expensive, I'm sure because the minimum quantity is much more than I need. Is there some alternative? What about filling the void with regular attic insulation then foam panels in the spaces of the frame? Thanks for any help!

Update: I ordered a new heater control board and replaced it, works like a charm. Thank you so much for all of your help and advice, I really appreciate it! Tony

Thanks a lot for the help, I appreciate it. New board is on order, I'll status back once it's installed! On a side note, and just for future reference, how do you test if the pressure switch, and the thermistors are good? Thanks!

A few more questions... 1. I'm assuming that, when the heater is activated, this should be 240v when testing across the two heater connection points (black and white)? 2. Does the "heater on" light mean that it's attempting to start the heater, therefore, it should be 240v across these two points (and if this light is off [which I've not seen yet], it's at temperature, and I shouldn't get anything across them)? Thanks again, I appreciate the help! Also... Is there any way to hotwire the heater (bypass the control logic) to prove it's ok?

The more I think about this, the more I wonder if it's not an indication of a bad heater control board, could the fact that it has no voltage across the two simply mean that it hasn't decided to activate the heater? Thanks.

Thanks for the reply. - When testing 2&4 and 1&3 on the incoming power block, I get 240v. - When I disconnect the heater and put the meter against the white and black leads for the heater, I get 9.8 ohms. - With the heater disconnected, if I test the voltage where the heater attaches on the PCB, I get 6v on the black connection point, 123v on the white, and 28.3 across the two. - If I connect the heater, and test again, I get only millivolts across the two... I'm assuming this means a bad heater control board? Thanks again!

I just bought a used 2005 Hot Spring Vanguard (VV) spa. It's in great shape, and according to the owner, they've not had any problems with it. I got it home and hooked it up, then filled it. First mistake, I just tossed the hose into the tub, so when I went to turn it on, there were no bubbles coming from the floor return. I used a hose and back flushed the system, blew out any air, and now get bubbles, but it will not heat. Jets work great, as does the light and the circulation pump, but no heat. No breakers are tripped, and it's not in summer mode (I've even turned summer mode on, then off again, hoping to reset it). I've reset the breakers about a hundred times, no change. Power light is on, but ready light never does. Temperature is set for 104 (though i've adjusted up and down), but water stays at 64. I can feel the water flowing through the tubes on the heater. As I understand it, the potential source of the problem could be: - 1. No power, or improperly wired power to heater - 2. No water flow through the heater - 3. Bad pressure switch (for sensing water flow through the heater) - 4. Bad limit switches (for determining when to come on/off) - 5. Bad heater - 6. Bad heater control board When I remove the cover on the IQ2020, I have a green light for "LIM OK", and a red light for "Heater On". The last light, "CONTROL UNPLUGGED" is not lit. I've examined the heater PCB on the left (which the incoming power leads connect to, as well as the heater power), and find no visible signs of burning or blown components. I test the power leads coming into the block (from the breakers), I get 123v & 125v across both legs, and 248v across the two legs together. I check the terminals for the black and white leads from this board to the heater (after removing the heater leads), I get 4V on the black one, and 125v on the white. I'm not sure if this is right (as the black goes through some components first), or if this is the problem. I checked the resistance between the black and white leads of the heater and get 9.8ohms I have a PDR heater, which according to this, has no reset button. http://www.teddybearpools.com/ask_the_bear/item/how_do_i_restart_my_heater.html Excuse the length of this, it's as much about explaining the problem, as validating from the experts that I properly understand the heater sub-system. Thanks!

Great, thanks. I'll keep you posted.

So I drained it and found no obstructions. I refilled it per instructions I've found elsewhere (but never knew), backfilling to eliminate airlocks. I now have bubbles, but in the process broke the high-limit thermistor when I pulled it to check it out. Considering how easy it broke, I'm wondering if it wasn't cracked around the top. So, I ordered a new one and installed it a few hours ago. So far no tripping. One question though: Is there any adjustment process required when installing a new thermistor, or is it just a plug and play component? Thanks, Doc

I'll drain and check it tomorrow. I was able to run it long enough last night to get the temp up to 106 so was able to use it, but I probably had to reset it 3 or 4 times. I felt the return and it sure felt like it had quite a bit of pressure, still no bubbles though. Thanks for the help, I'll report back. Doc

I inherited a 1996 Hot Springs Jetsetter from my in-laws about 3 years ago. When I got it, the circulation pump was dead, so I replaced it and it seemed to work fine. About 2 years ago it started tripping (blinking read light, heater stopped heating but circulation pump continued to work), but not too often. Turn it off for a while and it'd be good for another few weeks. Now it's gotten to the point it won't run for more than about an hour before tripping, sometimes it trips within minutes of resetting it. Working my way through the system trying to figure out what's going on, I pulled out the heating element, it looks brand new. So next I pulled out the circulation pump. No problem there, impeller is working fine. What I do notice though is that, in the past, I had a constant stream of bubbles coming up from the floor drain where the heater/circulation returned, but now, no bubbles. I have flow, if I put my hand over it, I feel water coming up, and if I pull the filter and standpipe for the inlet, there's a lot of suction, but no bubbles (not sure if that really matters). Also, while trying to figure out what it is, I unplugged the heater. The unit ran over night without tripping (first time in a while it did that), which has me leaning towards heater, but I don't want to spend the $250 unless I'm sure that's it. So does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, Doc P.S. It just tripped again, so I decided to feel the circulation pump. It's pretty hot to the touch. Not scalding, but you certainly wouldn't want to put it in your lap. Not sure if this info's any help.