jtm311
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Posts posted by jtm311
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Nice job on the skirting !!
$1000 and some work not a bad deal at all, I'm guessing that it must have come with the cover as that would probably set you back another $500!
That's actually what dissuaded me from taking my brother's 'free' hot tub that had been sitting unused for awhile. Though he claimed that it worked fine when he last used it, it hadn't been run for quite awhile and didn't have a cover. When I priced covers (no lift) I found it was going to cost me about $500 for a decent one. I figured it was quite likely I'd have to sink some additional money to get it up and running. I then happened to come across a Sundance Capri that was being used (indoors) and had both cover and lift for $1200. As the Capri was smaller (mostly I use it alone) and I figured the 'free' one would end up costing me at least that - I opted for that instead and have not regretted it.
Now if only 'Fix-a-Leak' would take care of the leak it has developed. <sigh> Even with the big price I've been quoted for a repair I still figure I'm going to come out ahead. Hope you enjoy your tub as much as I enjoy mine!
Most of the money went to the deck and eletric hook which I did on my own. I did buy a new cover which I got off ebay custom made to fit mine very happy with it and it only was $300 in the end it does take about 3 weeks for the whole process.
We have been using the heck out of the spa and love it.
John
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Installed the new spa pack all worked out great
she is up and running so with all new parts a deck and running the power I have a good spa for about a $1000 .. I will take a photo with the finished skirts tomorrow. Just waiting on the new cover Thanks for the help
John
You are quite the trooper! Good job and I hope you get to enjoy your spa for a long, long time!!
Ok all new dials, pillows need a little more stain and all done
John
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Installed the new spa pack all worked out great
she is up and running so with all new parts a deck and running the power I have a good spa for about a $1000 .. I will take a photo with the finished skirts tomorrow. Just waiting on the new cover Thanks for the help
John
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My local spa shop had the correct Hi=limit sensor so I replaced it. Guess what, nothing changed same problem! So I'm at a loss it may be time to call in a tec or order a new board.
Can anyone confirm that the Hi- limit sensor when tested with a meter should be closed? The new tested out as "open" as does the old one.
John
Yeah, with the sensors you get resistance readings, not open or closed continuity sort of readings - and even then it doesn't work so great cos the wires/connectors are so tiny.
Did you call someone out or order a new board? No one ever wants to tell you to get a new board. Probably cos their expensive and it's hard to suggest doing it.
I cheaped out big time on a control board and switched two components around instead of replacing the board. But shoot - A new board costs $300 with tax and shipping! There are some DIY people who will suggest replacing a relay (or something) instead of the board. I don't know enough about those kind of details.
I hope whatever you choose to do works out right for you!
Lori
Ok I tested the board till I was blue today. No 5v at the relays so I said the hell with it and called a service guy, he wanted $125 an hour. So I looked for a board replacement on-line best price was $350 and shipping. So I said the hell with it again
I ordered a spa pack from United spas $379 and free shipping. Now I know it will all work when I get it. I will post a before and after shot on Tuesday when it gets to me.Thanks
John
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My local spa shop had the correct Hi=limit sensor so I replaced it. Guess what, nothing changed same problem! So I'm at a loss it may be time to call in a tec or order a new board.
Can anyone confirm that the Hi- limit sensor when tested with a meter should be closed? The new tested out as "open" as does the old one.
John
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Ok here is an update. I was able to test the pressure switch it works. Also, I jumped out the other two relays so I could get the 240v to the heater. I ran it that way for 1/2 it went up 5 deg. (not sure if that is good 5.5k) From what I have read there is no way to test the hi-limit switch,true?
I do not think it is a temp switch because I'm getting the digital read out on the top panel.
So I can only think that it must be the Hi-limit switch, would anyone add to this?
No erro codes on the top panel.
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I looked for that I don't think I have that type of Hi-limit. I think it is in the heater housing.
Anyone? Maybe for the $200 I replace the heater with the pressure and Hi-limit.
John
What does the heater look like? You mentioned "heater housing". Is there a part online where you can post a URL, or can you post a photo? $200 seems high, especially if it's just a sensor.
The hi-limit might also be a little disc looking thing.
Here is my replacment heater
I should have said it also includes a pressure switch and high limit switch.
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Ok no power at the heater. I found the following the heater relay is pulled in however the Hi-limit relay top and bottom are not pulled in. If I manual pull both in I get the 240v at the heater. So is my next step one of the sensors?
Thanks,
John
I'm not good with the relay thing. Maybe someone else might be able to help here.
Is there a red button sticking out anywhere (that would be your hi-limit sensor)? If the hi-limit trips (pops out) then it has to be pushed back in to reset it, otherwise no heat. If it hasn't tripped; popped out, then I have no clue why a hi-limit related relay would not engage.
I looked for that I don't think I have that type of Hi-limit. I think it is in the heater housing.
Anyone? Maybe for the $200 I replace the heater with the pressure and Hi-limit.
John
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Ok no power at the heater. I found the following the heater relay is pulled in however the Hi-limit relay top and bottom are not pulled in. If I manual pull both in I get the 240v at the heater. So is my next step one of the sensors?
Thanks,
John
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Could you give me a little more details on how you are testing for the 230V? Are you just testing the black on a common ground and the hot ( red) lead to one of the heater leads? or are you just testing across both heater leads for 230v
Thanks again for all the help.
John
Sure!
Lets say you have two heater leads/wires. One is red and the other is black.
Metering both heater leads should give you 220-240volts; touch the end of one meter probe to one hot [red] and the other meter probe to the other hot [black] and you'll get 220 to 240 volts. For a universal type heater element, I always meter where the wires connect to the heater element.
Metering ground and one lead should give you 110-120volts. Put one meter probe on ground and the other probe on red, you should get 110-120v. Put one meter probe on ground and the other probe on black, you should get 110-120v.
Let me know what you find and we can go from there
Great I will give it a try tomorrow. I thought that is correct. I will let you know.
Thanks,
John
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Could it just be the heat is still bad, or just caked with stuff? Should I read 230V any where for the heater?
Thanks for the help, what next. I guess I could pick up a new coil and try that.
John
Right, when you use a voltage meter on the two heater leads you should get 230 volts.
Again, if you ARE getting proper power to the heater and the spa is NOT heating then replace your element.
I never use an amp meter cos I'm too cheap to buy one - the average inexpensive voltage meter I come across only reads up to 10 amps but I supposed you could check the amps too if you want to be 100% thorough. I don't know what the amps are supposed to be.)
If you are NOT getting proper power to the heater element then something else is wrong and you have to nail that down first.
Could you give me a little more details on how you are testing for the 230V? Are you just testing the black on a common ground and the hot ( red) lead to one of the heater leads? or are you just testing across both heater leads for 230v
Thanks again for all the help.
John
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Sorry the photo did not post. There is a large 25 amp fuse I thought this was for the heater. I guess I can also ohm out the heater, it is only a coil if it rings out it must be good, well I'm guess on that one.
Thanks for the reply.
John
Actually, if you use and ohm meter on the heater element it will register something if it's good. And since I didn't know the details I looked them up!
"Turn off the power to the heater first and disconnect the two wires to the elements. Set the meter to the "OHM" function, and check the flow between the two screw connectors of the elements: If there is a positive reading, then the circuit is "closed" and the element is fine; if there is no reading, the circuit is "open" and a new element is needed. Also, if you get a reading on your meter between either of the screw connections and the metal element, the element is shorted and must be replaced.
You should expect an approximation of the following readings on the OHM meter (give or take a little) for functioning elements:
* 15.5 ohms for 3500 watts
* 13.0 ohms for 4500 watts
* 10.0 ohms for 5500 watts "
Is this plagiarism? I used quotes.
Ok here is what I tested. Ran the spa for 1.5 hours Heat went from 57 to 59 (no Heat) tested during running at both screws I have 10.5 with the meter set to 200 ohms. Also with the leads of the heated I also read 10.5.
The heater relay stayed on the so I know it was calling for heat. No error codes Hi limit relays never kicked in.
Could it just be the heat is still bad, or just caked with stuff? Should I read 230V any where for the heater?
Thanks for the help, what next. I guess I could pick up a new coil and try that.
John
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That skirt looks really nice. Is it rotten? I bet if you hit it with a belt sander you'll find a gorgeous, weathered grain underneath. Spray it down with some thompson's and you're good to go.
After pressure washing it, it looks better in the photo but it is missing some craked everywhere I bought some new wood to make a new one. I will post photos once it is done.
John
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OK I replaced the pump with same unit ( J-pump) . I got her running today all works good no more leaks, Now for the question I ran it for about 15 min water temp stayed at 54 and never moved I think the heater is bad. Can you check the heater with a meter? Also, is the heater fused?
I see one 30 amp fuse on the board.
Thanks,
John
You can meter the heater leads to see if the heater is getting power (and the correct power) 220v I assume? so 110-115ish on each lead. If there's power going to the heater and it's not heating that should be all you need to know to replace it. But I'd give it more than 15 minutes! That water is cold.
You can use a meter with an ohm setting and check the continuity of that fuse. It could be for the heater, we can't see
Sorry the photo did not post. There is a large 25 amp fuse I thought this was for the heater. I guess I can also ohm out the heater, it is only a coil if it rings out it must be good, well I'm guess on that one.
Thanks for the reply.
John
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One very solid reason for staying WITH the J-Pump is that the matching curved surfaces inside the union body allow a fair amount of flexibility on motor/pump positioning. Most other pumps do NOT have curved surfaces. As such, the plumbing must be precisely aligned for a leak-free fit. If the original factory plumbing does not mate perfectly, you may have to redo some of the plumbing in order to utilize a pump from the Aqua-flo, Waterway or Vico lines.
Personally, I'd suggest spending a bit extra and staying with the J-Pump.
Also, be aware that some of the Santina Plus models utilized a low flow circ pump, specifically the old Tiny Might circ pump. Jacuzzi had a lot of problems with proper flow rates and switched to a more robust circ pump.
John
Thank You for that, I do like the J pump ends, However, the price for their set up is crazy $$. I found a good motor pump comp which is 1.5HP as they used some times in these tubs. The old one I pulled is 1HP. Other then that the spec on pump and motor are the same as the old unit.
John
OK I replaced the pump with same unit ( J-pump) . I got her running today all works good no more leaks, Now for the question I ran it for about 15 min water temp stayed at 54 and never moved I think the heater is bad. Can you check the heater with a meter? Also, is the heater fused?
I see one 30 amp fuse on the board.
Thanks,
John
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One very solid reason for staying WITH the J-Pump is that the matching curved surfaces inside the union body allow a fair amount of flexibility on motor/pump positioning. Most other pumps do NOT have curved surfaces. As such, the plumbing must be precisely aligned for a leak-free fit. If the original factory plumbing does not mate perfectly, you may have to redo some of the plumbing in order to utilize a pump from the Aqua-flo, Waterway or Vico lines.
Personally, I'd suggest spending a bit extra and staying with the J-Pump.
Also, be aware that some of the Santina Plus models utilized a low flow circ pump, specifically the old Tiny Might circ pump. Jacuzzi had a lot of problems with proper flow rates and switched to a more robust circ pump.
John
Thank You for that, I do like the J pump ends, However, the price for their set up is crazy $$. I found a good motor pump comp which is 1.5HP as they used some times in these tubs. The old one I pulled is 1HP. Other then that the spec on pump and motor are the same as the old unit.
John
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Rob you hit the nail on the head. That is what I would say happen to the pump. Why even mess with a new J pump I can buy the whole setup for less. I would have to change the conncetion to the pump from j to like a k style but that is an easy fix.
I'm I correct in my thinking. Rob would you know if on the circut board I see a jump for the Ozonator is off, should this be on to make it work?
Thanks,
John
[been a Jacuzzi agent for about 25 years. I think what you mean too say is the filter motor shaft has corroded because the pump seal leaked. Pretty common on tubs. I don't have my manuals with me but I believe the Santina used Jacuzzi's J pumps which are black and rebuildable. The older pumps were white and one piece
You can rebuild the pump by getting a new seal and impeller but the motor will have to be replaced. You can get motors anywhere the price is good, it doesn't need to be the same make as long as the ratings and frame are the same.
I'm not a big fan of replacing ozonators, you can by a lot of bromine for what a replacement ozonator costs. New owners think having an ozonator gives them license to ignore water chemistry, the only thing they do is cut down on bromine usage.
Cleaned her up not bad I still will replace the skirt.
replaced the brocken pipe and filled her up to test the unit.
good thing is only one small leak from one of the air connection.
Bad news is the skimmer pump and wet end is shot. Looks like the wet end seal
went and rotted the shaft. So new pump and wet end other then that some new pillows
and she will be ready to go.
How do you tell if the ozonator is working?
Thanks
John
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Where is the best place to buy Jacuzzi parts from? The tub is a Santina plus.
Thanks,
John
I don't know who is the "best". I get my Jacuzzi parts from here.
Thank you best prices I have found so far..
Question any reason you can not change to another brand pump and wet end? I can not see why. I found a better motor and wet end same motor spec and pump just not what currently came in the top.
Thanks,
john
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Cleaned her up not bad I still will replace the skirt.
replaced the brocken pipe and filled her up to test the unit.
good thing is only one small leak from one of the air connection.
Bad news is the skimmer pump and wet end is shot. Looks like the wet end seal
went and rotted the shaft. So new pump and wet end other then that some new pillows
and she will be ready to go.
How do you tell if the ozonator is working?
Thanks
John
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Where is the best place to buy Jacuzzi parts from? The tub is a Santina plus.
Thanks,
John
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Thanks Guys got it. Jacuzzi Platinum Series don't know the year. Anyone know about these?
John
What would you like to know? Are you moving / buying it? Need to fix it? ...??
Thanks I'm picking it up on next week for free the tub looks very clean but the skirt needs help. I understand it has a leak, But PS558 answered what I need it seems parts are easy to get. I would like to give it some upgrade but for now lets see what is needed to get it running
John
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The manufacturer may be identified on a rating plate attached on the inside of the equipment compartment, or on the base under the skirt outside the tub.
Thanks the problem is no one is at the house any longer and I have to drive a few hundred miles to see it.
But thanks anyway
Thanks Guys got it. Jacuzzi Platinum Series don't know the year. Anyone know about these?
John
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The manufacturer may be identified on a rating plate attached on the inside of the equipment compartment, or on the base under the skirt outside the tub.
Thanks the problem is no one is at the house any longer and I have to drive a few hundred miles to see it.
But thanks anyway
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Ok another free spa story. Before I even drive to see this would anybody know the brand of this one?
Before all the
jokes starts I have asked the owner who does not live there to tell me the make and model before he through out the renters. Well gues what he can't... long story not for here.
thanks guys.
John
Need Help To Identitfy This Spa
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
Yes it is Home Depot best
John