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I can think of a number of reasons not to use the higher wattage element, but I cannot recall the complete specs on the Beachcomber 550 series. As best I recall, it has a single jet pump, a circ pump, a blower and possibly an ozonator. I seem to recall that normal amp draw with everything running and using the 4 kW heater is approximately 36 amps. After applying the 125 percent rule, we get a requirement for a 45 amp circuit minimum, hence it must be really wired and protected at 50 amps anyway. The circuit board tracings and relays may or may not be able to accomodate the additional amp draw of the 5.5 kW element. If you think it will, I am not prepared to dispute that. However, the addition of an extra 6 amps to the original 36 amps tells us the full amp draw will be approximately 42 amps. Applying the 125 percent rule to the 42 amps reveals a requirement to wire and protect to 52.5 amps. Since the next highest breaker size is 60 amps, you'd have to wire and protect to that level, not the 50 amps that you currently propose. Without even discussing the possible violation of Article 110 of the NEC (or whatever its Canadian equivalent is) for altering listed or recognized equipment, I do not believe that the equipment in the 550 will support a 60 amp circuit. Therefore, I would recommend against swapping out the 4 kW element for the 5.5 kW. Don't forget that the engineers who designed this particular pack for this particular tub are very much aware of the various wattage heaters available to them, yet they deliberately chose the lower wattage. Now, who do you wish to believe? The design engineers or the folks at Spa Depot? Don't forget, there is no real cost difference between the wattages, so its not as if Beachcomber and Balboa were cheaping out on you in order to achieve a cost savings. Here is a rule-of-thumb that I strongly suggest people adhere to. In the field, you can always use an element of the same or lower wattage. You cannot go to a higher wattage. Stick with that and you'll be safe. John

Here's the major problem though. Your buddy is calculating based on 45 amps. That is where he is wrong. Hot tubs are subject to the 125 percent rule. 125 percent of 45 amps is 56.25 amps, hence the requirement to wire and protect for 60 amps. If you are quoting him accurately, it is plainly obvious that he has no knowledge or experience with the electrical requirements of hot tubs and his advice should be ignored for safety sake. If you do not want to select THHN for your conductors, fine. Select any of the myriad of 90 C or even 105 C conductors on the market. There are a bunch of different ones available. However, I feel it is imprudent at best (not to mention potentially dangerous in a 60 amp circuit) for your buddy to tell you that it is fine with him for you to protect a wire that has a maximum 55 amp rating with a 60 amp circuit breaker. This defies all logic. Anyone with even the most basic understanding of electricity knows that the protection devices (fuses or circuit breakers) must have the lowest ampacity rating in your appliance. All other components (terminal blocks, conductors, etc.) must be rated to equal or exceed the fuse or breaker rating. John

You are correct. #4 will not fit the lugs in the spa controller, but nobody has advocated using #4 all the way to the tub. John

To add one additional point to the mix, Jacuzzi RECOMMENDS THHN in conduit. THHN is 90 C rated. Although you could argue that they are not mandating it, I think it is prudent to use something that meets or exceeds this recommendation. Your choice falls far short of this factory recommendation. All of the factory wire size recommendations are rated on calculations based on 90 C wire, not 60 C wire. For Quantum, hot tubs are subject by code to a 125 percent rule. In this case though, a 60 amp circuit meets this 125 percent requirement. The continuous load of these particular Jacuzzi tubs is in the mid-40's. The value of moving to #4 wire for the main electrical run is a reduction in voltage drop, which is an important consideration in any high current appliance with motors (such as a hot tub). I've never understood why people want to skimp on the electrical and save a few bucks, when a robust installation can have an effect on the longevity of the equipment, especially the motors. One final note about Jacuzzi's recommended wire sizes. I have no problem with their choice of #8 THHN for the final, short run from the disconnect to the tub for any of their tubs set for 40 or 50 amps. I have a huge problem with using #8 THHN in this case if the tub is jumpered for 60 amps. I feel that, and the ampacity tables support, the minimum should be #6. I'll be curious to learn if Canada also requires an insulated ground for hot tubs. John

If you are in the USA, I see a couple of potential problems with your installation. First, #6 AWG may or may not be suitable for a 60 amp hot tub circuit. For example, if you used Romex, this would not be sufficiently sized as #6 Romex has a maximum table ampacity of 55 amps BEFORE the application of de-rating factors. Second, Article 680 of the NEC plainly requires that the grounding conductor MUST be an insulated wire. You have stated that you used a bare copper ground, but the NEC precludes the use of a bare ground. John

Congratulations on the foresight to use the higher rated wire. Too bad you can't use it now since you are going with 50 amp service to the tub. It is always possible that your jurisdiction has relaxed de-rating percentages for temperature, but I really doubt it. Most jurisdictions, if they modify a section of the NEC, usually increase the level of protection. The NEC is generally perceived as a set of minimum standards. I carefully re-read the percentages from the Table in the NEC with the temperature de-rating factors and stand by my earlier statement. However, as in all cases when discussing electric code, you would be prudent to check with your AHJ for any changes required in your jurisdiction. John

Others have already advised you of the difference between the 30 and 50 amp circuits, and its effect on tub operation. I wanted to address something else in your post that may or may not be a problem. I noticed that you wanted to utilize a 10/3 circuit that is already in your attic. Much will depend on the existing wire type and the hottest temperature that your attic may experience. I know it is commonly believed that any 10 AWG copper wire can carry up to 30 amps. However, this is not always correct. Wire type, ambient temps and the number of conductors in the conduit can all conspire to drop the maximum ampacity well below 30 amps. For example, the maximum ampacity of 10 AWG Romex (a 60 C conductor) is 30 amps. However, if your attic temps reach 105 degrees F during the summer and the Romex is subjected to this heat, the maximum ampacity of this wiring drops to 21.3 amps. If your attic gets hotter than this, then the de-rating will be much more severe. My point is, unless you live in an exceptionally cool climate where the attic never exceeds 70 degrees F, you may have problems with using the 10 AWG for a 30 amp circuit. I suspect that, at most, you could use it for a 15 or 20 amp circuit. I quickly checked the appropriate table in Article 310 of the NEC and found that, at a minimum, you would have to run a 90 C rated wire through the attic, assuming the hottest attic temperature between 105 to 113 F. A 10 AWG 90 C wire (such as THWN-2) at this ambient temperature has a de-rated ampacity of 34.8 amps. As a matter of fact, the ampacity of 90 C wire remains above 30 amps all the way up to 131 degrees F. I checked your profile and it does not state what part of the country you live in. I don't know, maybe you live in northern Alaska and this won't effect you. However, I realize that a northern Alaska scenario is not likely and that the odds are that you live in a warmer area. If so, this info may keep you from burning your house down. John

The multiple ground rods can contribute to the problem, unless they are also directly tied together. You must BOND all metal together in an equipotential bonding grid. From your description, it sounds like the problem is external to the tub, however, it would be prudent to test all tub loads with a high quality megohmmeter. John

Louder would definitely indicate a motor problem developing, but I have a hard time believing that the motor is tripping your breaker. Obviously, the motor is not ground faulted because the breaker does not trip immediately at motor start up. I doubt it is an over-current issue as the SC-25 fuse on the board would blow a lot faster than the 50 amp breaker and you are not repporting blown fuses on the board. I suspect chemical damage that has somewhat damaged your pump seals which have probably affected your motor bearing. If true, check your heater and ozonator for ground fault damage. It will be the heater and/or ozonator probably causing the trip. John John, I don't have a ozonator. Do you have any advice do determine if it is the heater? Thanks for the help. Dan Some folks advocate disconnecting the copper connectors that go to the heater cold pins and re-starting the hot tub. This can work, but I prefer using a high quality megohmmeter. A megohmmeter ensures that you will not damage the electronics while checking the loads for a ground fault. Each reset of the GFCI in the face of a ground fault can result in electronics damage, which may be what you now have if you saw smoke. Seeing smoke is NOT good. John

Thank you all for your replies! Is Saratoga then a good product? I have two Hotspring recc's here, but the Saratoga dealer is close by and a friend of my neighbor. The Hotspring dealer is about a 40 min away. The Saratoga's are very good, especially those in the upper half of the line-up with the M-Class control box. The tubs are well constructed and well insulated. John

One other caution that may or may not apply in this case is any Wisconsin code applicability. In most jurisdictions where electric and gas code is incorporated by regulation into state law, hot tub components (or any components for that matter) must be recognized and/or listed by a recognized testing agency for the intended purpose. We are all familiar with the UL and ETL labels that certify either the tub and/or the individual components for such use. Domestic hot water heaters are not certified for such use, nor could they hope to gain such certification. I know that any attempt here in Mass to install a gas hot water heater as the heating source for a hot tub could not be done legally. Massachusetts requires that a permit must be pulled for any hot water tank installation, the installer must attest to its legal use and the installation is subject to inspection by the AHJ. Having said this, it is always possible that such an installation may be legal in WI. I am clueless as to WI stand concerning parts recognition. John

Louder would definitely indicate a motor problem developing, but I have a hard time believing that the motor is tripping your breaker. Obviously, the motor is not ground faulted because the breaker does not trip immediately at motor start up. I doubt it is an over-current issue as the SC-25 fuse on the board would blow a lot faster than the 50 amp breaker and you are not repporting blown fuses on the board. I suspect chemical damage that has somewhat damaged your pump seals which have probably affected your motor bearing. If true, check your heater and ozonator for ground fault damage. It will be the heater and/or ozonator probably causing the trip. John