mrfixit

Before you go thru alot of work, check the drain plug(s) at the bottom of the pump. Many, the Haywards espescially, will suck air if not sealed propely. Be sure the O ring is in place and not cracked, or seal the plugs with silicone.

Ya I agree with billp- it doesn't take much to impede an impellor. Up here in winter I often see spa pumps with small bits of ice the size of grape seeds that bind the impellor. Can't say I have yet seen an impellor bound to the diffuser plate right out of the box yet...

either the impellor is being impede ( ie a stone or some other foreign material in the wet end) or a bad start capacitor or bad start windings. The last 2 will be warranty issues.

I like my explanation better. My brain hurts after reading yours.

Yes I am taking the heater out of remote mode on the heater, and yes the keypad is disabled while in remote mode. The Jandy is a one touch and yes I am getting a red heater light on the main control. And yes I am at 104 on the heater. I did attempt to start the heater thru the jandy in service mode but it did not work. I will do the above mentioned jump and see how that works. Any indication on what the voltage should be to the heater from the Jandy? I assume 12v? If I reset the Jandy, what exactly does that do? Am I going to have to reprogram it?

Ya, sounds like a thermal shut off to me. If the motor is enclosed or otherwise not properly ventilated, this would be the cause even though the operating conditions may not be extreme enough to shut it down. The motor needs to cool itself off, be sure that it can do this effectively. on the Hayward super2 there are air louvers on the bottom at the end of the motor where the air exits and at the front of the motor where it connects to the pump. Clean them up. If it still shuts off after that, take it to an electric motor rebuilder. It's usually a pretty inexpensive fix.

I don't know a whole lot, but it seems to me that the same salt cell is used with Sodium Chloride as Sodium Bromide. The cell is just a carbon electrode that ejects an electrical charge across two poles, the charge being the catylist that seperates the sodium from the bromine or chlorine molecule. The way I understand it, the bromine molecule is much more stable than the chlorine molecule, and any chlorine in the water will be converted to bromine over time. I suspect this is why they put the bromine tablets into the water. The sodium chloride will produce chlorine thru the generator, but it will convert to bromine when in the tub. What I am not sure about is how the cell reacts to both sodium chloride and sodium bromide being converted at the same time. The gentleman above may be entirely correct in suggesting that the water needs to be changed.

Further to the above conversation, the chlorine generator may be adversly affected by some of the products mentioned above. You mentioned that the chlorine production was dropping, and it may be due to contamination of the sensor by the metal, or you may be adding phosphates to the water via these chemicals. Phoshates will render the cell useless at levels as little as 200ppm.

I can't speak for all pool manufacturers, but the pools we sell also have a 52" wall with a hung beaded liner. The actual wall is 52" top to bottom, but the liner hangs about 3"-4" down from that. It has been my experience that used liners do not typically survive storage very well, mainly because of holes and tears that develop in moving it around and often brittleness is a factor also. Cracks develop in the creases where the folds are. If your liner seems suptle and soft, then you may be ok.

Hi folks- I am a Technician in Ontario, Canada. To some, this may seem like a simple and silly question but I am stumped. I have a customer with a Jandy Aqualink ( this is the only Aqualink in the area, so I do not have alot of experience with them) and the issue I have is this... in the system and connected to the Aqualink for the last 7-8 years was a Raypak PR 335 heater. The heater, for some reason, stopped responding to the Aqualink . The heater was due to be changed anyway, and we recently installed a new PR336 and all worked well with the new heater for about a week, until the propane tank ran dry and the heater, of course, could not light. After the propane tank was filled, the heater will now not light in the remote setting. It works fine manually, but will not work on command from the Aqualink. Neither RayPak nor Jandy was able to help with why this is happening. I suspect that the error code history may have something to do with this, but am not sure. The code in the memory are as follows 1) PRS (pressure issue) 2) GVC (gas valve closed) and 3) IGL (ignition lockout). I did not clear the history from memory because at the time I did not think it was significant to the issue, but am now thinking maybe I was wrong. The aqualink seems to be working fine as far as sending the signal to the heater to light ( as indicated on the Jandy control) but the heater is for some reason not responding to the signal. And yes the heater is in REM mode ( flashes REM alternate with the temp) Any help would be graciously and thankfully accepted.