markley

Thanks so much!! You are always so helpful, and quick to respond! Your expertise is very much appreciated! Do you know of a brand of MPS that is not as acidic? I have been using Leisure Time with 32.18% MPS.

So I have recently switched to the low chlorine Nature2 system in our 240 gal tub. I am adding 1 tbsp of chlorine once a week and MPS after each soak. When I first switched to this system about a month ago, my levels were as follows (using taylor test kit): FC = 0.4 ppm CC = 0.6 ppm pH = 7.8 TA = 80-90 ppm Calcium Hardness = 150 ppm CYA = <30ppm (filled all the way up and dot finally disappeared) I must admit that over the last week or so I have not been checking levels as they seemed to be doing fine for the first two weeks. Anyway, I just re-tested the water and here are the numbers: FC = 3.5 ppm CC = 1 ppm pH = <7 (was way low!! had to add 15 drops of the R-006 just to get it at a reasonable number of ~7) TA = 10 ppm Calcium Hardness = 160 ppm I am not sure how long the pH and TA have been that low (maybe 2 weeks; do you think any damage could have been done?). Also, what could have caused this drop? the MPS? Should I add ph increaser, or TA increaser? Thanks in advance for any suggestions!!

Thanks for the reply!! I do have MPS test strips. When I checked with the strips it did not appear to register any MPS, well it was on the low side. Should the MPS level always register in the ideal range? I usually add 1-2 tbsp (after each use; which is about every other night). To maintain the MPS it seems as though I may have to add it every day. If thats the case I may have to switch to the dichlor-bleach method once i use up all my MPS, as this could get expensive. Thanks again!! Much appreciated

Thanks for all of the suggestions!!

So I just got my Taylor kit in the mail. I ordered online from Amato (thanks for the recommendation; easy transaction and speedy delivery). Anyway, I just got some numbers and just curious if I need to tweak anything. Here they are: FC = 0.4 ppm CC = 0.6 ppm pH = 7.8 TA = 80-90 ppm Calcium Hardness = 150 ppm CYA = <30ppm (filled all the way up and dot finally disappeared) I guess I should state that I am using the Nature2 system, and adding non-chlorine shock (MPS) after each soak and dichlor once a week. I just started with this system so still getting used to it. Any comments/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

I've been looking to get a nice robe, preferraby terry cloth, and was wondering if anyone knew where I might find one that doesn't cost too much...Also, does anyone know of a slipper material that would be ideal for getting wet. Something that would dry quick?? Thanks

Thanks Mike! I just ordered the Taylor test kit from the site you linked. Wow, what a deal compared to other online searches...Thanks!!

Thanks Ken! One more thing (maybe the last), i notice that my chlorine levels are high (at least 10 based on test strip; i will order the taylor kit today). Is this a function of the intial shock? and will it go down? if so, how long will it take?

Oh one more thing. Where do I get dichlor and boric acid?

Thanks all for the replies! I have to admit that I am new to this. So what are you all using to measure CYA? Also, it seems that a majority of the people use the dichlor-bleach method. I think I may try the MPS method with occasional chorine at first and see how things go. Also, will my pH go down or do I have to lower it somehow? Thanks again

Thanks so much for the reply!! Thats exactly what I needed.

OK, so I have been driving myself nuts for hours researching Nature 2 on this forum. Wow, there is a ton of useful info, but i think that I am now overwhelmed. So I emptied my hot tub and refilled with fresh water, added some calcium increaser, added ph increaser (as it was low, although it now reads high?? above the range of the test strip), and added alkalinity increaser to get in range (now about 150). Then I inserted the Nature2 cartridge and added 1 tbsp of Spa56 (chlorinating granules; to activate cartridge). Now I am just waiting for the tub to get up to temperature. I am now just curious as to what Nature2 users are doing on a routine basis. The dealers suggested using a tbsp of non-chlorine shock after each use and 1 tbsp of the Spa56 chorinating granules once a week. Is this sufficient? I realize that I won't know for sure until everything is balanced, but just wanted to see what others are doing. Thanks for any tips/suggestions?

I am switching over to the Nature2 system and was wondering about the recommended filter cycle. The dealer recommended two 6 hr filter cycles a day. This seems like overkill to me, any suggestions? comments? Could I get away with two 4 hr cycles? Actually the dealer said the filter cycle should be 12 hrs a day regardless of what sanitizer is being used.

So I posted this a few weeks ago with no response...so i figured I'd try again. Anyway, just curious as to what all is necessary to run a hot tub on granular bromine. Any special filter? or other chemicals? Thanks!

Just curious what all is necessary to run the hot tub with granular bromine. Do you need a special filter? Or can you just add the granular bromine directly into the water as needed (once a day?)? Also, is it true that bromine is harder on the jets? Someone has told me bromine could ruin the jets?? Thanks in advance..

What are the advantages/disadvantages for using Bromine? I am leaning towards going with bromine. Does one work better than the other? Thanks

Thanks for clearing that up!

I often hear of the horsepower of the motor in hot tubs, but how important is this? Wouldn't the gallons per minute be a better indication on whats coming out of the jets? and i guess it would also depend on the number of jets the flow is distributed too. Just curious...

I am going to reinforce my deck to get ready for our hot tub. The deck is 12'x32' with the long side along the house, attached via a ledger which is through bolted (every 16") to the floor joists of the first floor. The posts are 6x6's spaces about 6 feet along the outside edge of deck. The joists are 2x10's spaced 16". The 2x10's are doubled along outer edge and notched into the 6x6 posts. There are no posts in the middle of deck, only around outside edge. My plan is to place (2) 4x6 beams under where the hot tub will go (in corner at house side), each beam supported by 4x6 posts (one on each end, and one in the middle). Do you thinks this will work? Could I just put one 4x6 beam with 3 support posts directly under the tub, as opposed to two along each edge? The tub is 5x7 and 2400 lbs full. Thanks for any help/suggestions

Thanks much hot water...This is exactly what I needed to know. I just checked and I do have a QO series Square D panel. I think that I will get the GFI outside by the tub. Thanks for the heads up on the cheaper replacement parts..I'll make sure they bid for the Square D breaker.

Yeah, I think the cost difference was based on the make of my main service panel (Square D). The cost of a GFI on this panel costs around 150-200, as opposed to buying a GFI for $75 buy the tub. Thanks for the replies.

I'm assuming you made a typo and meant to say "the more I don't like it." If this company claims they are the only one to pass the CEC's efficiency standards, it's a blatant lie (or they are very uninformed). Anyone can view the list of hot tubs which are currently considered to be within standard. (See the CEC's list at the link below) Hydropool is indeed on the list, but they're most certainly not the only ones. http://www.energy.ca.gov/appliances/databa...ectric_Spas.zip Not to mention, I doubt they are the only carbon neutral company on the entire planet either. These are pretty grand stand claims. Well so they might not be the only ones the pass CEC efficiency standards, and possibly not the only carbon neutral hot tub company, but name me one salesman that doesn't stretch the truth or pump up there product (hint hint) to make a sale. If I went off of that alone, I have to say I don't like any company. Regardless, Hydropool hot tubs are energy efficient and are carbon neutral. So Tadia, like I said, it would be worth checking them out as they make a quality product.

Jeremiah, Sorry if my original post was not clear. The contractor wants to put the GFI on the main service panel (inside the house), and run wire to a disconnect box near the tub. The tub would be wired to the disconnect box.

I have been getting quotes to have the 220v electrical run for a hot tub and a few of the contractors say it is better to put the GFI on the panel, and just having a disconnect near the tub. It seems that this will be a little more expensive (about $100 more). So far, my estimates have been $500-$600. Does this sound right? The run is about 25-30 feet (50amp, 6 gauge 4-wire copper). One contractor actually turned me down because I told him I was getting multiple estimates. He said that he can't compete with these guys that will do it for cheaper (he says they will cut corners to keep the cost down). That was a first for me.

Hey Tadia, I know that there is not much info about Hydropool, but you might want to see if there are any dealers in your area. The more I have looked into this company the more I like it. Supposedly they are the only manufacturer that passed the California standards for energy efficiency, and the worlds only carbon neutral company.