argekay

Thanks for your replies!

Hi- I have a 27,000 gal concrete pool. Due to financial reasons I am not able to run/open my pool this upcoming season. I would like to drain my pool next month to avoid problems with west nile virus and algae before the weather gets warm. My question is this: will draining the pool for 5 months during the warm weather have any bad effects on the concrete? I know water exerts pressure on the pool wall and do not wish to have any cracks begin to appear from the lack of water in the pool. Thank you all in advance!

Thanks for the advice Paul! Ray

By the way, I am using Di-chlor as a sanitizing agent. Thanks!

Hello to all- I have a 27,000 in-ground gunite pool. It was resurfaced 1 week ago. The readings are as follows using Taylor K2006: Cl (free) 1.5 PH 8.2 TA 100 TH 400 Cya 20 My question is this: Is the high PH due to the marble dust still curing? Will the PH eventually lower on its' own? The PH from my tap is 7.0. I put in dry acid, but can't seem to get the PH down. I tested the PH right after filling the pool (before adding chemicals) and got the high PH reading. Is Muriatic acid better than dry acid? Thanks in advance!

Disregard the question on borates. I figured it out. Thanks!

Thanks again Chem geek and Mark. I have a Taylor test kit which measures FC, CC, PH, TA, CYA, CH, and acid and base demand. Would I need to purchase any other testing chemicals? By the way what are borates and where would I purchase this chemical? Thanks again! Ray

By the way- I do not know if this makes a difference, but I thought I would add it in case the SWG system may adversely affect my pool- My pool is over 40 years old. The "overflow" area around the edges of my pool is basically a three inch "U" shaped trough which has small aggregate (stones) in it to hold any small splashout. Also inside my pool, around the top 10" is tile. Just though I would add it in case it changes the decision to sitch to SWG. Again, Thanks in advance! Ray

Hello again- Thanks Mark, pool clown and chem geek! I had perused an article which suggested higher than normal failure rates with pool heaters (my unit has a titanium coating on the exhanger) unless a cupro type barrier was part of the unit. Anyone care to weigh in? Does the addition of dissolved solids (with respect to non-salt type sanitization) collect inside the pool heater and make it less efficient? Also- The deck of my pool is concrete. Will this cause a quicker failure rate of the concrete than my current sanitization method? What type of salt is added to the pool using this sanitization method? Is it NACl (sodium chloride)?

Hello Folks and thanks in advance for any useful advice- I have a 25,000 gal. inground concrete pool. My system consists of a 1.5 hp pool pump, a Jandy AE 2500 pool heater, and a D.E. filter. I am having my pool drained and resurfaced using marble dust in the near future. I thought this might be a convenient time to switch to a salt water chlorine type system to perhaps lower my chemical costs in the long run. However my knowledge of this system is quite limited. I have some questions that I would like to pose. Here they are: 1. Will the salt water system affect the life of my heat exchanger (titanium) in my heat pump? 2. Will there be any corrosion issues on other parts of my pool filtering system as described above? 3. Will the salt water system affect the longevity of the marble dust coating on my pool walls? 4. Is it less expensive to operate in the long run than using chlorine? 5. Do I still need to add the same chemicals ( i.e. calcium chloride, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, cyanuric acid) as with the chlorine type sanitizing system? Any other advice or possible tips would be greatly appreciated! Thank you

Sorry about the typo- I am using 1.42 GALLON jugs (182 oz.) when I shock. ray

Hi- I have a 25,000 gal. inground concrete pool. Opened up to a swamp 3 weeks ago. My pool water is now crytstal clear except for some small areas on the bottom which have geen algae growth. I keep brushing these areas and my pool filter is run at least 6 hrs./day. I have repeatedly shocked my pool (sometimes with bleach, other times with dichlor), and used a non-polyquat algecide, but all to no avail. I don't think I am adding enough bleach for shocking. I usuall add 6-7 jugs of 6% bleach in the 1.42 liter size. I add this shock in the evening. Can anybody help with the amount of bleach to add? Here are my chem stats as of this morning: CH: 300 TA: 110 Cya: 50 PH: 7.4 FC: 1.5 CC: 0 Thanks in advance! Ray