takk1956

Do the limits sound like they are OK or should I get new also? If they read the same then they are fine. You the "Man" Dan!!

Do the limits sound like they are OK or should I get new also?

Is there anyway to test them? You can test them for continuity. You should get the same readings give or take a few hundreths. ie 7.51 and 7.58 would be OK The actual number will depend on the temperature. If the thermistors were off you would normally get a flashing power or ready light. Ok this is my ohm readings, t-stat & hi-limit both read 11.8 when I unplug and test at prongs on each,Then the heater Black to G=29.8, White to G=29.8, Black to White=0 The power flashing indications only when I unplug limit and replug then it starts flashing so kill power 30 secs and flashing stops

Is there anyway to test them?

Sounds like the heater. If the breaker is tripping, you need to test continuity on the heater to ground. Test the black lead and the green lead and you should get Open Line or 0. If you get any other reading then the heater is grounded and therefore trips the GFI. Ok,I will test Black to ground, I only tested across the Black and White for continuity. not to ground Does any of this sound like heater board is the problem? Which would be the first to try Heater or Heater Board. (If line reads Open that is) No, you said there was voltage at the heater relay, so the board is good. Good, Its a question I didnt want to assume so I had to ask to be sure. Also if I have to replace the heater should the Limits be replaced also or reuse existing one. What would most others do.

Sounds like the heater. If the breaker is tripping, you need to test continuity on the heater to ground. Test the black lead and the green lead and you should get Open Line or 0. If you get any other reading then the heater is grounded and therefore trips the GFI. Ok,I will test Black to ground, I only tested across the Black and White for continuity. not to ground Does any of this sound like heater board is the problem? Which would be the first to try Heater or Heater Board. (If line reads Open that is)

Hello to Anyone that has input and Thanks if you have suggestions. Everything was fine tell after 3 days of rain-(Not thunder or lighting) Figured it was wet and damp was all until sunny days didn’t resolve it . 120V cord GFI keeps tripping. Therefore, I removed GFI 120v plug from cable and plug in and Indicator now stays on. Reconnect back to Tub wire and it trips within 2-3 Seconds. I opened control panel and looked for visual signs trouble… Looked good. I removed the Black heater line from H terminal. Plugged back in GFI plug and have indicator on GFI…The Tub Jets work when jets are pushed and Clean runs when clean is pushed. Seems to function. Until I reconnect black and Push Jets -off the reset, trips on 120v cord GFI within 2-3 Seconds again. I tested the power on H1 and H2 with heater disconnected and voltage was 120V (heater on indicator was lit) No voltage when Jets are running. I did remove white heater wire and left black connected and this trips it within 2-3 Seconds. The heater has scale or corrosion on bottom half but I do not think that matters much. The Indicator light above heater is on and there is a red Light in the center of the board behind aluminum is Lit also. I put a Continuity tester on the heater leads and got good Tone, Not sure, if it was Ohms reading also but it displayed 10 on my meter. Circulator pump is running voltage is good to it also. Not positive but I think the power indicator was flashing on the tub. I removed the top (heater limits) connector on the board from the side but the tub registered that the Temp was at ready. Reconnected and reset power to clear. Then removed the one below it the tub shut off, reconnected and reset Power to clear. Last checking was jets running Black heater lead not connected push jets and Heater indicator lights then I attach Black lead.... Plug cord GFI trips as well as a small ark at connection when it makes contact to terminal - I figured this would explain the continuity tone since there was an ark when trying to connect. OK based on these tests what to I start with in repair. I figured heater but the Continuity throws me and the fact that the Board has 120 when heat indicator is lit leaves me not sure at all. I will take any suggestions and my gut says heater even though it read continuity. Hope to solve before it gets to cold and have to drain.

I purchased a new heater based on the following information: No Fault 6000 Titanium heater. model-72795 This heater fits 2003 to Current on Models G, V, I, H, J, S, ILE, VV, AC I have a ILE Sover.... tub with IQ 2020 board, The problem or Question I have is that the new heater has a Pressure wire on it that the Instructions say is IMPORTANT to connect to P34 on the Board , I found the location on the board for P34 BUT there is NO prongs/pins to push it onto. Its just a Location with no prongs to push the connector onto. I purchased this heater particular because of the info that said ILE model in the part description Ok back to the Main, The heater is in, the wire is sitting there Do I fill the tub or Do I need to do something with this Pressure wire. Or do I do nothing or will it work? I just dontwant to fill 300+ gals and 6 hrs just to drain remove and send back for different unit. Any info would be great if you have been through this before.