bart6453
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Posts posted by bart6453
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There has got to be more to this story. I can't imagine a dealer taking a spa back like that.
In my line of business we call it a PITA........
Pain
In
The
Ass
There is a point at which you realize that no matter what you do the customer will never be satisfied. At that point it is by definition a "no win" situation.
It is better to "divorce" the customer than put up with the continued work load that serving them would put on the business. At the same time, no matter what you do, or how good your intentions as a business, it will just continue to make the situation worse.
I have bought back $25,000 motorcycles just to get the monkey off my back.
I am not saying it's Wannago's fault, sometimes it just happens. It can be as simple as the customer and the salesperson both having a bad day, then people get upset, and plant their feet on both sides...and voila!
I will say though that by virtue of your extremely long post about this that you have very clear and precise expectations for your purchase, this by definition can make it very hard for a business to make things right by you.
anyways....pretty cool that you got your money back. Good for you!
There is definitely more to the story and this former client is leaving out some major details (including the fact that Jacuzzi actually called them and admitted they made a mistake in the information they had passed on to this client).
The bottom line is that this client made it very clear that they would not be satisfied no matter what steps we took to address their concerns.
We don't have any clients who are unhappy with the products or the services we have been providing as an award winning dealership for 5 years.
We gave this client their money back only when they made it clear they were questioning our honesty and integrity as a company. I'm happy to hear they found a hot tub they feel they will enjoy- Life's too short. This is the first time in our company's history that we felt there was no other way to satisfy the client- so draw your own conclusions.
Good for you.......I know exactly how you guys feel.
When it's a no win situation, no matter how much you hate to give the customer what they want.....it's just easier to go with the flow and give them their money back.
In the end you leave with your integrity, the customer leaves with their money.....we all know who really feels worse in these situations....and I will give you a clue...it's typically not the business.
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Does anyone make a spa with a cooler on it, for hot weather climates?
My car has a fuel cooler, it has a heat exchanger about the size of a soup can, refrigerant circulates through one side and gasoline on the other side. Something like that could be used to cool spa water with refrigerant on one side and water from the small circulating pump on the other side of a small heat exchanger. A hermetically sealed compressor and condenser, like those used on a refrigerator, would be big enough to cool things off.
Is there anything like that available?
Dave
well...I suppose you could run your circulation pump circuit through a truck radiator. Just make sure it still has the electric fan on it, you could set the fan on a thermostat to kick in when the water temp gets above a set temperature.
Hmmm....you could also use an automotive thermostat to open the circuit......interesting question.
I don't really think it's a good idea, but it would be a neat proof of concept to do it.
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does this sound right?
Zinc- Here at Tsunami we use the patented ZN System. Zinc is very good for your skin, makes your spa water feel silky smooth and is also a powerful, natural algaecide. There is no required maintenance when the spa is not in use, which makes it very easy to use. The cylinder shaped purifier is placed in the plumbing where it can be inspected or replaced if necessary and will last from 5-12 years. After that it can be replaced or the housing may be left as is with no detriment or loss of performance to your spa.
Unless there is heavy usage of your spa, mineral based purifiers can almost eliminate the necessity to use bromine or chlorine on a regular basis in spas that are also equipped with ozonators.
http://www.tsunamispas.com/spa_maintenance.htm
Thanks in advance!
DK117
well..I dont know much about minerals being a bactericide....but I do know that zinc is poisonous. The symptoms include yellowing of the eyes, crapping blood, metallic taste in your mouth, and low blood pressure to name a few.
I will be taking a pass on putting a Zinc filter into hot water and soaking in it.
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There has got to be more to this story. I can't imagine a dealer taking a spa back like that.
In my line of business we call it a PITA........
Pain
In
The
Ass
There is a point at which you realize that no matter what you do the customer will never be satisfied. At that point it is by definition a "no win" situation.
It is better to "divorce" the customer than put up with the continued work load that serving them would put on the business. At the same time, no matter what you do, or how good your intentions as a business, it will just continue to make the situation worse.
I have bought back $25,000 motorcycles just to get the monkey off my back.
I am not saying it's Wannago's fault, sometimes it just happens. It can be as simple as the customer and the salesperson both having a bad day, then people get upset, and plant their feet on both sides...and viola!
I will say though that by virtue of your extremely long post about this that you have very clear and precise expectations for your purchase, this by definition can make it very hard for a business to make things right by you.
anyways....pretty cool that you got your money back. Good for you!
I couldn't agree more. One thing I've learned in this business is that there is definitely two sides to every story and the truth usually lies in the middle somewhere.
Wannago, for all I know and for the point of this argument, I will assume you are 100% correct in how you describe the situation that has transpired. With that said, when you came on here with your "city dealer VS country dealer thread a few months ago...I honestly said to myself "I don't think I would sell this person a hot tub". Just an honest instinct that I had, no disrespect.
I think we have decided 4-5 times over the years to just not sell tubs to people for one reason or another and have picked up 2 or 3 tubs and refunded money to customers who were unreasonable or unhappy with the tub for whatever reason.
With that said everyone sounds happy and it seems like you got a great tub...hope you enjoy it.
Your attitude at the beginning of an event has a direct effect on the successful outcome of the event.
This is true as much for the customer as it is for the salesperson.
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I just replaced the ozonator on my 4 year old Jacuzzi, and I use the dichlor/bleach sanitation method. I don't expect it to reduce my chemical usage, as I feel that the tub should always have 2-5ppm FC if it's being used. I think it is more of a safety in case the sanitizer level gets too low when it is not being used.
The problem is, Ozone is not a very good insurance policy, because it doesn't sanitize (i.e. kill pathogens). Nature 2 is a better insurance policy because it acts a sanitizer. However, a Salt Water Chlorine Generator (SWCG) is an even better insurance policy, because it will keep FC constant when the tub is not in use. That's where I'd spend my money.
Interestingly enough, I have a Nature 2 cartridge for my insurance.....but I can tell it's getting to the end of it's useful life....my CD has gone up a bit.
anyways....good info on the ozone.
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I just replaced the ozonator on my 4 year old Jacuzzi, and I use the dichlor/bleach sanitation method. I don't expect it to reduce my chemical usage, as I feel that the tub should always have 2-5ppm FC if it's being used. I think it is more of a safety in case the sanitizer level gets too low when it is not being used.
That's a very good point, and frankly a good reason to have ozone....nothing wrong with a little insurance.
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There has got to be more to this story. I can't imagine a dealer taking a spa back like that.
In my line of business we call it a PITA........
Pain
In
The
Ass
There is a point at which you realize that no matter what you do the customer will never be satisfied. At that point it is by definition a "no win" situation.
It is better to "divorce" the customer than put up with the continued work load that serving them would put on the business. At the same time, no matter what you do, or how good your intentions as a business, it will just continue to make the situation worse.
I have bought back $25,000 motorcycles just to get the monkey off my back.
I am not saying it's Wannago's fault, sometimes it just happens. It can be as simple as the customer and the salesperson both having a bad day, then people get upset, and plant their feet on both sides...and voila!
I will say though that by virtue of your extremely long post about this that you have very clear and precise expectations for your purchase, this by definition can make it very hard for a business to make things right by you.
anyways....pretty cool that you got your money back. Good for you!
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Simon, just for informational purposes....are you sure your circ pump shuts down with your heater?
On the Jacuzzi tubs it typically runs 100% of the time, independent of the heater cycle. The only exception is during a power loss, your circ pump will only run when the heater is on during the first 24 hours after a power loss.
Bar6453 -
Well ... I'm pretty sure that my ozonator shuts down when the heater goes off or when it's not in one of it's scheduled circulation cycle ... but I'm not positive. Here's my observations and my "logic":
1. My ozonator produces bubbles. I'm fairly certain that they are just air bubbles (not containing ozone). When I crimp the single hose coming out the ozonator, the bubbles stop. When I uncrimp the hose, the bubbles start up again. Therefore, I conclude:
BUBBLES = OZONATOR IS ON; NO BUBBLES = OZONATOR IS OFF.
2. I will see bubbles when the jacuzzi tub goes into it's automatic cycle ... by default this is 2 x 30min per day. (I can change this up to 4 x 30min per day.) I can trigger a cycle by turning the power off then on (at my wall circuit breaker). After about one minute after I turn the breaker to ON, the first 30 min cycle starts. I see bubbles during this cycle. The temperature setting has no effect on the production of bubbles, therefore I conclude that during these two automatic cycles per day, my ozonator is "working". (I put "working" in quotes because I pretty sure the bubbles are just plain air.)
3. I also see bubbles (=ozonator on) when I raise the temperature of the tub. When I lower the set temperature to below the actual water temperature, the bubbles go off (= ozonator off).
When I mentioned this to the dealer service person (on the telephone) he agreed with me. However, my confidence in service people (in general) is rather low.
I know the jacuzzi manual says that the circulation pump is on all the time. However, I think it is NOT true that
Circ pump on = ozonator on
At least, the manual doesn't speak to this situation.
My dealer tells me that I SHOULD always leave my tub at the desired temperature (104 for me) and never turn it down. He says this does NOT cost more electricity. I'm skeptical of this. I don't leave my house at a constant temperature. I lower my home inside temperature at night and when I'm not home to save energy/money. Why should my Jacuzzi tub be different???
I'm curious ... do must people leave their tubs at the one desired temperature all the time ... assuming that it is usually used a few times a week? What do you do?
So ... if I get a new ozonator (for a few hundred dollars) that produces OZONE bubbles instead of just air bubbles, my thinking is that the water will only get ozonated about 1-2 hours per day in my Jacuzzi brand tub. That doesn't seem to be enough to be an effective since ozone doesn't stay in the water like chlorine.
This was probably a longer explanation than you wanted, but thanks for listening.
- Simon
Hmmm.......when I got my tub I really struggled with the ozone question. I decided to skip it and get the better cover.
Knowing what I know now, I would never spend the money on the ozonator, seems like they are just more trouble than they are worth.
to top it off I have been using the di-chlor/bleach method, my Jacuzzi tub is 375 gallons, and uses 3.1 oz of bleach every other day when not used. My total bleach consumption per month is about a half a gallon.....which equates to about $2 of sanitizer per month.
If an ozonator cut my sanitizer demand by 50%(which is wholly unrealistic but I needed to pick a number) it would take 200 months to pay for a $200 ozonator....and since they only last a few years....it equals a bad investment for me.
thats my thoughts on the subject.
I would check your circ pump though.....it should be running 24/7, if it's not there is something wrong.
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Chem Geek -
Thanks for the information. As you suggested (in response to a previous post of mine), I have switched to the diclor-then-bleach method. So far it seems to be working fine. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience with me and others in this forum.
In regards to my broken ozonator ... I decided that I'm NOT going to spend a few hundred dollars on a new ozonator. I did find some "inexpensive" (a relative term) CD type units for about $100-$150 that I could install myself. I MAY (not sure) get one of these and see if it makes a difference. I am hoping to get some more responses to this thread before I make a final decision.
My primary reason for getting an ozonator to begin with was that I was told it would reduce the amount of chemicals I need to add to the water. Saving money, although important, is a secondary concern.
I'm not sure that my ozonator ever made a difference. When I first got my Jacuzzi hot tub, I followed the directions that salespeople gave me about water chemistry. To sum up their advice ... keep adding chemicals of all kinds. After all, they make money by selling chemicals to "solve" my problems. When the water got to the point that I couldn't get the chemicals to do what they were suppose to - I drained the tub and started the same process over again. I tried diclor, bromine tablets, triclor tablets, ph+, ph-, non-chlorine shock, de-foamer, etc., etc.
After 4 years of dumping more and more chemicals into my tub, I decided to join this forum and get some expert advice. I'm glad I did.
I think for MY purposes, the ozonator is more marketing hype than an effective solution. Since I turn my tub temperature down after I use it, the circulation pump and the ozonator shuts down on my Jacuzzi tub. This means that I get about 1-2 hours per day of ozone due to the automatic timed pump cycles. I don't think this is really enough to be effective. I could keep my tub at a constant 104 degrees all the time and the ozonator would probably make some contribution, but I'm not convinced.
Thanks again ...
- Simon
Simon, just for informational purposes....are you sure your circ pump shuts down with your heater?
On the Jacuzzi tubs it typically runs 100% of the time, independent of the heater cycle. The only exception is during a power loss, your circ pump will only run when the heater is on during the first 24 hours after a power loss.
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See this link from Taylor that says that the R-0002 DPD Reagent #2 should be colorless to be effective. It starts to turn pink as it reacts with oxidizers and that makes it less effective.
AWESOME, thanks....thought I had crappy reagents! Damn it! Now I am screwed until I get a replacement...not to mention out 6 bucks. Oh well....no good deed goes unpunished. This is why I struggle to keep my business local sometimes....I try to source everything I buy from locally owned places. And this must have been on their shelf forever.
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Hi grunt66,
I've had my Jacuzzi J470 for 1 week too. My start-up chemicals are the same as yours, and I'm using the Pro Clear mineral cartridge (Nature 2). The way my dealer explained it was to use Chlorine once a week to shock the tub (leave your cover open for 30 minutes when you shock). Use MPS for day to day use...after each use (about 1 tbsp is enough) I've been in the tub for a couple hours at a time and I add a tbsp after about an hour. I'm still learning this system too, so I'm not saying this is gospel, but it's what I've been told, and so far seems to be working ok for me. Good luck and let me know how you make out.
Thanks for the info Firemedic. I called my dealer and he told me to add the shock after we get out of the spa. I told the dealer that the shock container had weekly on the front and the chlorine container had daily on the front. He told me that chlorine should be used weekly and shock every time we use it. On the back of the shock container it states to use 4 ounces for 375+ gallons and since the J-480 holds 570 gallons I asked him if I should use the 4 ounces and he stated to use no more then 2 ounces.
I started to look for the chemicals (Spa Care Solutions) on line since the dealers is just over 50 miles away and it is not convenient for me to drive 100 miles round trip just to buy chemicals. I can not locate the Shock Oxidizer all I can find is Shock Treatment by Spa Care Solutions. I am wondering if they are both the same. Not much information when I google the company.
Check out nitro's approach to water maintenance.
http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=13634
I think you are starting to travel down a dangerous path of inept chemical maintenance.
If you use your tub as much as you previously indicated, and sanitize only weekly, you will be woefully under-sanitized even at the .5ppm level that the Nature2 cartridge recommends.
Please educate yourself on water sanitation and you will be amazed at how easy and quick it is to care for your spa. Nitro has done all the hard work, take his advice, It made my life much, much easier.
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We have owned our Jacuzzi J-480 for little over a week now and me and the wife are enjoying it. They gave us a chemical start up kit that consisted of: Spa Care Solutions (Chlorinating Granules Sanitizer, Shock Oxidizer, ph & Alkalinity Increase) Nature 2 spa cartridge, and Aquachek test strips. My wife was at home (I was at work) during the delivery of the spa. For the first couple of days we kept testing the water with the strips and everything was in the OK area ( monopersulfate, pH, and total Akalinity) and the water is clear and we added no chemicals. Then my wife contacted the dealer and he said to add the shock oxidizer (potassium peroxymonosulfate) into the spa since we were using it twice a day for about 30 minutes. After the shock was added (4 ounces) we entered the spa later that evening and the next day my wife had little red itchy bumps on her skin were her bathing suit was at. I also had little red bumps on my skin were my bathing trunks were at. The rest of my skin that was exposed during the soaking was clear. I had about 6 bumps but my wife had numerous bumps. We keep the temp on the spa at 101. I am thinking we had a reaction to shock oxidizer since there were no problems when we just added the chlorine. I spoke with a spa tech and he told me to just add chlorine after we use the spa.
I am considering buying the Taylor K-2006 chemical test kit. Is there a different type of shock that does not contain MDS that I should look at? Our spa has the ionic/ozone sanitation system. Does it sound right to just add chlorine after each use. Thanks in advance.
Sounds like you need to get a handle on your sanitizer levels. Take a peek at nitro's approach to water maintenance.
You could have an MPS reaction, but as far as I know you have what sounds like Pseudomonas Folliculitis, aka hot tub rash. Typically it is most prominent on areas that are covered with the seam of a swimsuit, or many times by hair that is long and laying on your neck and shoulders.
Another cause could be a swimsuit that was contaminated, say left to sit in a bathroom to dry, but didnt get cleaned. Your tub could be clean, but your suit's could be dirty, causing the outbreak.
Also keep in mind it can take up to 4 days from exposure to manifest into sores on your skin. So you could have been working on this for a while.
Dont feel too bad, we learned all about this when a Doctor friend of mine had an infected tub....we all ended up with sores.....so even the most highly trained on general sanitation procedures can find hot tubs to be a bit daunting at first.
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I have a taylor test kit with the dpd chlorine test. I used up all of my reagents and got replacements. Now my #2 reagent is tinted pink...Is this normal?? I cant remember if it was pink before or not.
Thanks for the help.
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And 190 leaks!it has 188 jets !
That's the kind of tub that it's fun for your friend to have.....
Not gonna lie, I do get jet envy once in a while. I have a Jacuzzi J-325...great tub, very therapeutic and such...but only has 18 jets or something like that.
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Hi,
I am a regular reader of the forum and have a need for some advice so I joined up to post
.I have a fiberglass 2100L spa that I maintain with an ozonator (just replaced), N2 stick and lithium or MPS in low doses.
The cost of the lithium and MPS is an ongoing expense that I hoped to reduce by switching to bleach.
I have added an amount of CYA which I acquired from my pool shop (doesn't disolve well does it!), and measured using the pool calc.
When I add the liquid bleach (White King 6% regular) I notice some "fizzing" and this evening I added 25ml before bathing and the spa foamed up heavilly.
Do bleaches have a detergent or additives which will influence foaming?
The water chem is roughly:
pH 7.6
TA: 50
CH: 40 ... (very soft water in my area - have run out of calcium but never had dramas with a low amount).
The water has only been recently replaced (about a week ago). I considered it may be low pH or TA that are at cause but having changed sanitizer I thought I'd investigate.
Another query is borates. I use "spa silk" which is boric acid. Same thing? Is this just a weak acid that acts as a buffer? What impact is there of having more or less?
Thanks for all the useful posts and any advice people can offer for my queries
.Mick
Hmm....did you use their "power clean" product, the concentrated, or the regular bleach. After a quick look at their sight, they do not have MSDS information available and many different products that look very similar. There might be a surfactant/detergent in some of their products. Just an idea, chem geek or nitro may have a bit more insight than I do.
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Thanks to everyone for your input! I'll be looking into all the options suggested for both the tub and my allergies!
Keep us up to date with what you come up with!
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Wow Bart,
That totally sounds like me!!.....what did they suggest for you, so I can bring it up with my physician.
Since it seemed worst around the tub, I have always assumed the problem was related to it and allergies from it causing more sensitivity to
other things as time went along.
So glad you were monitoring this forum
Hi,I've been tubbing for 8 years, but in the last year, I've developed an allergy to almost any level of chlorine in the air.
(Can't even use chlorine based products to clean in the bathroom now without risk of irritation leading to sinus infection)
I have a Softub, and don't want to sell it, but don't know what direction to go from here,
to maintain a safe tub without the use of chlorine.....OR....my other fear....of developing
an allergy to a new product. Recently someone suggested that I move to an H202 system,
but after reading some of the postings here, I'm concerned.
Any clarification on a system that would not put chlorine in the air would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Lythande
Just out of curiosity, did you have an allergist confirm this?
The reason I ask is that I battled "allergies" for the past 5 years. They were absolutely severe, I would have a sinus infection every other week from the irritation in my nasal passages. I couldnt stand chlorine, smoke, dust, perfume anything set me off. I took all kinds of anti-allergy stuff, from nasal sprays(nasonex, flonase, etc), to systemic allergy medication(allegra, claritin, etc).
Eventually I went to the Mayo Clinic and they found out something totally stupid....it's called non-allergic rhinitis, meaning my nose is easily irritated by particulate matter and chemicals. Once they diagnosed that, they could put me on stuff that stopped the reaction without trying to cure what had previously looked like allergies.
Anyways....I wish I had gone to a good allergist 5 years ago, my quality of life would have been so much better, and now I can enjoy our hot tub, and a BBQ again.
well....I was switched from many different inhaled cortisterioids (flonase, nasonex, etc) and they gave me very limited results, but did increase my comfort, when combined with a systemic antihistamine (claritin, allegra) and a decongestant (sudafed, allegra-D) my life was bearable, but still very susceptable to flare ups when I came in closer contact to the stuff that made my nose and nasal passages burn like fire...which was always my first symptom.
In the end the Mayo clinic put me on a brand new nasal anti-histamine, Astepro or Astelin (both the same, Astepro just has sucralose added to deaden the bitter taste of Astelin) These are designed for people who don't have allergies per se, but have the symptoms of them. So...in the end ASTEPRO/ASTELIN has taken all my symptoms away. I have been sinus infection free since the spring!
I would give it a shot, most DR. dont prescribe it because it is kind of new and a bit expensive, but it works for me.
In the end what has happened to me is that I became sensitive to particulate matter from working at a motorcycle shop for years and the exhaust made my body get super sensitive to everything in the air.
The reason why the Nasal inhaled anti-histamine works so well for non-allergy rhinitis is because it is directly stopping the mucus membrane from reacting to the irritant, as opposed to suppressing your entire body from reacting.
Anyways...good luck, in my experience within about 10 minutes of using Atelin/Astepro you will know if they work...its a damned wonder drug for me.
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Hi,
I've been tubbing for 8 years, but in the last year, I've developed an allergy to almost any level of chlorine in the air.
(Can't even use chlorine based products to clean in the bathroom now without risk of irritation leading to sinus infection)
I have a Softub, and don't want to sell it, but don't know what direction to go from here,
to maintain a safe tub without the use of chlorine.....OR....my other fear....of developing
an allergy to a new product. Recently someone suggested that I move to an H202 system,
but after reading some of the postings here, I'm concerned.
Any clarification on a system that would not put chlorine in the air would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Lythande
Just out of curiosity, did you have an allergist confirm this?
The reason I ask is that I battled "allergies" for the past 5 years. They were absolutely severe, I would have a sinus infection every other week from the irritation in my nasal passages. I couldnt stand chlorine, smoke, dust, perfume anything set me off. I took all kinds of anti-allergy stuff, from nasal sprays(nasonex, flonase, etc), to systemic allergy medication(allegra, claritin, etc).
Eventually I went to the Mayo Clinic and they found out something totally stupid....it's called non-allergic rhinitis, meaning my nose is easily irritated by particulate matter and chemicals. Once they diagnosed that, they could put me on stuff that stopped the reaction without trying to cure what had previously looked like allergies.
Anyways....I wish I had gone to a good allergist 5 years ago, my quality of life would have been so much better, and now I can enjoy our hot tub, and a BBQ again.
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I did something similar. Instead of a heating pad I used a ceramic heater in a rubbermaid tube. It heats several towels and robes almost instanty.
That's a good idea too....a guy could take a make an air chamber type system, and have it cross ventilate, like a mini forced air furnace.
Hmmm...now you got me thinking...this is so not gonna save me any money!
I think I will make a box out of plywood, have the ceramic heater in a small separate chamber on the side(still all inside) and have it sealed to a vent from the chamber and blow through there, then put a false bottom in the box, and have run to the opposite side and vent on the bottom inside, so that it draws air from the "cold side" and blows it out of the aforementioned vent.
Hmm...maybe I could use cedar on the inside and out, that would be nice and fragrant....wow...I am over thinking this!
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We bought a used hot tub from a friend who was moving, it's older granted- about 10 years old. The friend said he never had that problem and we do believe him. It has 2 motors - one is about 1 yr. old. We got it moved with no hitches, and installed. We spent a few days cleaning it out got a new filter, chemicals. It seems to work BUT... this is the second time now that when we take the cover off to use it we find a pile of ball bearings at the bottom. Now I know this can't be good - Does anyone know what this could be from? A motor or the heater? We've called a local hot tub dealer and they have no idea. The company brand name of this hot tub is no longer. I'd appreciate some insight. Thanks.
Had a buddy with a Coleman tub which this happened in....I was the left handed water transfer pressure pump...make sure to check the LEFT HANDED one, the right handed one does not have ball bearings, but roller bearings.
Okay, seriously......they were just from his worn out jets.
Sorry couldnt resist!
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Pretty slick!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That is killer!!!
Thanks guys, try it yourselves....it works great!
I have to admit, I did not come up with exactly the idea. My mom used to make yogurt with our heating pad as a kid...I know sounds strange, but that works too(another thread for another board) but anyways that was my inspiration for making a towel warmer.
Here's an update, I am a bit of a perfectionist, it may be from a grommet from a Harley-Davidson oil tank, but it works here.
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How about some pics!!!!!!
I will post some, I just made tonight out of a better cooler and a modern heating pad with an auto shut off...that way we can turn it on and forget about it, after 60 minutes...it turns off.
Cooler, $20
Heating Pad, $13
Paint $5
I skipped the urethane, because A. I didnt have any left, B. I didnt want to buy any, C. I think it hampered the heating pads ability to heat the towels. I will post a pic shortly.
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I kind of figured that my TA was slipping a bit, I added TA up to take it to about 60ppm, and my ph stabilized at 7.5.....so that was easy.
Wh said it was difficult?
Just keep on eye on pH.not a soul...but it still amazes me at how easy spa care is if you pay attention and use your brain.
I wish the dealers would properly train their staff and in turn their customers for proper spa care. It would make everyone's experience so much better.
on top of that it would sell more spas, my total time and cost has been so insignificant in the past 6 months it is amazing!
I bet it only costs about $5 a month to maintain my tub.
New Spa Options Desert Climate
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
I always forget about others temperatures...in Minnesota it really doesn't get all that hot.
You are absolutely correct about the heat exchanger and ambient temp.
There is a pretty cool chilling unit used for soft drinks that would work as a proof of concept project. It is a water bath with chilling coils cooling down the water bath and then additional coils for the "fresh" water to run through that are cooled by the water bath. This way the entire system is sealed from one side to the other. Incidentally, it is made of all stainless steel, so it would be pretty durable. That would work wonderful, but be fairly expensive to run. The flow was at 2 gallons per minute giving a 25 degree temperature drop. So theoretically with no additional heat being added(sun, friction, or otherwise)....a 400 gallon tub should drop 25 degrees 3 hours and 20 minutes.
interesting........wonder if anyone has done it before????