PreservedSwine

You can ask 10 different people that question, get ten different answers... and everyone is right. I prefer granular chlorine, sodium dichlor as the main sanitizing agent, used with a silver ion cartridge, and non-chlorine shock. I find the granular chlorine does a superior job of keeping the water clean and clear, with virtually no chlorine odor, and much less PH drift than bromine. Is that the only way to properly maintain the spa? NO!

Okay, how is the circ pump flow?

There are some things you just know from experience, that are difficult to explain on a troubleshooting forum. If the heater is indeed overheating, it will be VERY hot to the touch when it goes into protection mode. Is it VERY hot to the touch when it goes into protection mode? If so, there is a physical lack of water flow through the heater. If not, there is an electronic issue. Solving the problems are approached very differently, and I'm leaning on you to narrow it down.

Are BOTH pumps affected by this loss in pressure? By draining and refilling the tub, air may be introduced into the suction side of the pump plumbing. This could cause a pump not to prime, and have zero pressure. But if the pressure is simply a little less than it was previously, it's coincidental. The pump has primed, and the air has been evacuated. The pumps are plumbed completely independently of one another. The do not share any plumbing. If one pump has less pressure than it used to, there could be a problem than could be solved. But both pumps? I'm trying to envision a scenario where that would be possible. Grasping at straws- if the 220v pumps were running on 120v instead of 220, they would be MUCH less powerful, and likley only run for a minute before overheating and shutting down. Are BOTH pumps affected by this loss in pressure? Are all the adjustable jets open? Are all the air flow controls open? Is the divirter valve handle for pump two all the way one way, or the other, and NOT in the middle? What repair was done?

1st guess is the heater high limit PCB, but it you should have a pro take a look. If the circ pump flow is good, and you have a new hi limit thermistor in already, you've thrown enough money at it guessing. The next parts start getting expensive, and you don't want to guess wrong.

Are the air flow controls on? Make sure the drain cap is good and tight (it can leak air into one of the pumps while that pump is running if not secure, causing it to lose pressure in one pump) (You've got two separate pumps) The pumps are plumbed independently of each-other. Try turning them on one at a time. Make sure the divirter valve for pump two is not in the middle, but turned all the way one way, or all the way the other. Make sure all the jets are open. If pressure is lower on both pumps, is it possible it's your perception? What type of leak repair was done?

Make sure the filter is clean, and if you have a silver ion cartridge inside the filter pipe-stand, make sure it's not blocking the water flow- just remove it to see if it's an issue.

Check the filtration settings (temp button, then quickly pump button once)

What is the serail number number of your spa? The red power light can flash for other reasons than the heater high limit, but in order to troubleshoot, we need to know the year it was manufactured

First thing is the thermistor replacement. Can you feel a "hot spot" anywhere on the heater when the spa is heating? Hot enough to cause pain in your fingers?

But it is. You just confirmed a bad pressure switch. There should only be continuity when the pump is running, and no continuity when the pump is off. If you're getting continuity when the pump is off, the pressure switch is defective. Just pop in a new one, you'll be good to go

Glad you got it. There are plenty of wires that go everywhere where inside the control box- If you follow the heater cord, you'll see where the heater plugs into the control box. Simply follow those wires inside the control box, they go directly on the "load" side of the relay you just replaced. Even better to test the coils of each relay as you did, very effective Enjoy!

10 gauge braided on the heater circuit.

Don't loosen them too much- hit the button on the panel while you're adjusting them to make sure it will still work properly once you put it back in place That should get you right as rain

That's unusual, particularly with the auxiliary control unplugged. Try engaging the spa-lock function. What year is your spa? Does it have the digital topside on the top facing up, or on the side facing out?

If we were to throw darts at a dartboard, based on the description you've given thus far, the first dart would be aimed squarely at the pressure switch. Does that mean that the pressure switch is the problem for every single person with these exact symptoms? Unfortunately, no, it does not. More like 9/10. I like those odds. But the great thing- we can stop guessing once it warms up and you OHM out the pressure switch

It's the only relay with the load wires going to the heater.

The issues are separate. Tripping of the 30 Amp breaker is not related to tripping the high limit (going into protection mode). The heater is on a completely different circuit, and the two types of failres are unrelated as well. One is simply a temp sensor being out of range, the other is electrical leakage leading to a tripping breaker. Let's tackle them one at a time. First, how is the circ pump flow?

that's correct. Blinking dots is a flow error on this spa

Unplug the pressure switch harness from the circuit board while testing it. When working, it will read OL when pump not running, and should read read continuity when pump is running,

How is the circulation pump flow? (The small pump that runs all the time in obscurity) Remove the filter that goes on the open ended standpipe. Does the problem vanish?

Likely a bad heater, or bad breaker.

You very likely found the garden hose gasket that was on the end of your garden hose. When the high pressure nozzle was taken off, the gasket stayed stuck to the hose, then fell off in your filter compartment. The spa has no gaskets that size, except the drain gaskets on the drain caps, which are garden hose gaskets

Don't jump the pressure switch- that will just lead to a different flow error. Your initial problem is a flow error. Try removing the filter, and silver ion cartridge if you have one in there, and see if the problem vanishes. You can get two different flow errors. Stuck open (when the filter is clogged) and stuck closed (when you jump the pressure switch) Just OHM out the pressure switch since you seem to know how to do that- with the pump running, and not running

1) It overheated at that spot, because the physical connection was poor. Either loose, or corroded, or undersized. The same amount of amperage is being pulled through both leads. If one overheats, it's because it was a weak spot in the wiring, and unable to carry the amperage. The heater terminals must be VERY tight after attaching new wires. Loose connections will melt very quickly. 2) No, this is not a grounding issue. 3) If the heater terminal is not damaged, it's fine. But if it is damaged, it may overheat and melt the new wire, and you'll need a new heater. 4) I think your flow sensor is good too, or it would not have heated at all. 5) No, the eprom had nothing to do with it.