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gcaLuna13

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Everything posted by gcaLuna13

  1. Hi All, I guess the title & description says it all. Any suggestions?
  2. Thanks Dave. Right after I replaced my heater element, the spa seemed to turn off more often. Now it seems to run longer for some reason. I thought something might be wrong with the heater again causeing it to turn all the time, but maybe it just SEEMS to run all the time. I haven't exactly checked it on an hourly basis. Thanks
  3. Hi All, What do I do about my tub that seems to run constantly? It's not the primary jets, but the non-jet circulation pump that seems to go all day. Is that normal? Thanks
  4. Ah yes, Very Cool Thanks much. Luna13
  5. I lost my keys backyard tub manual. What do these stand for (on my digital readout)? SL ST CL And these settings: F2 F4 F6 F8 Thanks, Luna13
  6. Hi All, It seems like the trace amounts of insulation isn't enough within an average tub system. Has anyone added some type of insulation (example R-19 wall insulation) to the inside of their tubs for extra winter help? Is this a big no no???? It seems my circulation pump is always running these days. Thanks, Luna13
  7. Thanks Otis. ... It WAS the heater. All is well again.
  8. Hi All, After my tub was completely drained for repairs, my wife accidentally cleaned the tub with windex to get rid of some build-up. Question: Will this small spray amounts of windex have a toxic reaction with the chlorine tabs in the tub even with the tub completely full of water again? Do I really need to dump the water? Or will a few days of Chlorine win the battle, making it safe to go in? Thanks, Luna13
  9. Yeah, but what about just to see if it pops the breaker? That's all I was planing to do. I'd hate to get it all back together fill the tub and find out I'm back at the starting gate. I'll know it the second the breaker is flipped if I got the right fix. Then I'll shut the breaker off (providing it doesn't do it on it's own - fingers crossed) and do it up right. Good idea?
  10. Ps. I didn't say anything about running... just that the breaker didn't trip. But I'm hoping it's all the same. We'll see. Thanks again.
  11. Dude, its the heater. One heater relay is closed at all times when the board is energized, (Except for when it goes into a o.h. condition, a hi limit call opens it). the other relay closes during heat cycles. If you connected the leg that is switched (on the right), it wont trip till the board closes the heater relay after the whole primer 7 minutes deal. because, there is no power to the heater on that leg. If it runs without both heater legs connected, it's the heater. Let me know if it works. Sooooooooo....... are you saying it's the heater Yeah, I actually ordered the heating element for $50 the first time you told me. It should be in any day now. I was thinking of plugging it inline before taking the trouble of installing it back in the pipe first.... just in case. But I'm sure it's the heater. What do you think? Anyhow, I'll let you know how it goes.
  12. Hi, Thanks for everyone's input... much appreciated. The last thing I did was pull the heater off the board and turn the breaker back on, as someone suggested my problem is most likely my heater. At that point the breaker did not trip. So I started thinking maybe this person is right, but it could still be a "completed circuit" thing, so I left the unit hot and pushed the right copper band back onto the board stud. Ok.. so good. I then pushed the left copper band back onto the stud. The breaker tripped. Ok, fine. The problem seems to be when I get the heater back into circuit with the left lead, but in my mind it could still be the overall circuitry -being that the heater just completes the loop. So I did the process in reverse... Power on... no heater involved yet... pushed the left copper band back onto the circuit board... the breaker pops. The board circuitry is not "Made" because the right lead (the good one from pervious test) was not connected yet. So know I'm thinking, "It must be the heater." Does anybody think it could still possibly be anything OTHER than the heater? It seems pretty logical to me, but I'm not a computer componet specialist. Thanks for any more input, Luna13
  13. Yeah, I figured it would be a total replacement. Thanks for the detailed answer and the link. I really appreciate your help. Awesome Forum!! Cheers
  14. You need to get a new heating element. What does that part look like? I haven't taken anything apart yet... So far I just see a metal tube with the 2 copper strap connecting stems sticking out of the top. Is the heating element the whole metal tube under the controller box that connects to the rest of the plastic tubing throughout the tub? Or is the heating element the stem piece that removes easily from inside the metal tube? What is a typical price for an element? Are they easy to replace? Recommend any good online stores? Thanks
  15. Hi All, I have a Keys Backyard Spa Model # KB331dx - with an internal "VS Series" controller unit #54358 Model#keys100d. The spa has been running perfectly for a little over a year now. This morning I noticed the outdoor disconnect breaker (that is mounted on the outside of my house) had tripped. I reset the breaker and it tripped again instantly. Thanks, Luna13 ***************************** From Otis Skywalker - Most of time, tripping on Balboa packs is the heater... disconnect both lines going to the heater and see if it still trips. ***************************** Thanks Otis.... That was my problem alright. I pulled the copper straps off one at a time. The right strap worked fine, however when I pushed the left copper strap back onto the board stud (with an insolated tool of course) it tripped the disconnect wall-mount breaker attached to my house. Any Idea what to do next? Like I said, It's just the left copper strap. The right one doesn't cause the breaker to trip. Thanks again. Luna13
  16. Now that "Keys Backyard" is no more... Is there a place to buy parts? Used Parts? Thanks, Luna13 Ps. Is there someone who knows the dip switch 0-1meanings for my VS series?
  17. Now that "Keys Backyard" is no more... Is there a place to buy parts? Used Parts? Thanks, Luna13
  18. Thanks... Well the breaker tripped unti I removed fuse F4. At that point the breaker did not trip. I replaced F4 (carefully while breaker was still in working order) and the breaker tripped instantly. So my logic is that the fuse works (at least in allowing current to get to the rest of F4's circuitry) because the breaker tripped. If the fuse was "Open" it would be the same as not having a fuse at all. The breaker trips due to something after the fuse... right? Does this logic work?
  19. Home Depot... same thing I suppose. Just found out that "Keys Backyard" is Defunct. Great. I hope I can still find parts for my VS Series controller. Any 'Parts folks' out there? Luna13
  20. Are they the 2 pair 16awg black/red cables? If so, I tried those as well, but thanks anyhow
  21. Most of time, tripping on Balboa packs is the heater... disconnect both lines going to the heater and see if it still trips. Are they the 2 pair 16awg black/red cables?
  22. Hi All, I have a Keys Backyard Spa Model # KB331dx - with an internal "VS Series" controller unit #54358 Model#keys100d. The spa has been running perfectly for a little over a year now. This morning I noticed the outdoor disconnect breaker (that is mounted on the outside of my house) had tripped. I reset the breaker and it tripped again instantly. Each time I tried I heard a light click and then the breaker would trip. I open the VS Series unit and pulled off all the external wiring (to motor, to top side unit, to light, to heater, ...etc) one at a time to eliminate a trouble source downstream, but the outdoor breaker kept tripping. I then started lifting 1 side of each fuse one at a time to isolate board circuitry. The breaker once again kept tripping until I got to fuse F4 - 300 mA - 250V I started putting everything back into place (wires & fuses and F4 as well - all back to normal) and the breaker tripped again. I then lifted one end of the fuse F4 and the breaker did NOT trip this time. The problem has to be downstream of F4 but I don't have a schematic. Does anyone know where I can get a schematic or can offer advice? I'm an engineer so I should be able to figure it out with the schematic. Thanks for your help, Luna13
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