djousma
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Posts posted by djousma
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Aha!
The spa tech was just here. Seems the electrician hooked the power supply fr the heater up to the wrong terminal in the spa control box. He swapped the wire over, turned on the power and "click" on came the heater.
Now the wife is calling the electrician to give him hell and see what he intends to do about it. At the very least, we are not paying full price for the job. I feel bad for the poor guy, even I'm scard of my 130 lb woman......
Other than hooking up power wires to the terminals in the box, I'm wondering why the electrician was even messing with the lead from the box to the heater? Are you sure that whomever delivered the tub didnt mess up? Or was it messed up from the factory?
I guess I wouldnt sweat the electrician. It was an annoyance, but no harm done, no damage. You have your tub now, get it warmed up and enjoy it.
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What do you guys think? Should I take the snow off....or leave it on the cover until I am ready to use the tub?
I have a good cover, with the higher density foam so support is not an issue.
It has about 10" of snow on it now.....do you think it is helping insulate much?
Just curious and bored with nothing to do but watch it snow.
I would worry about the weight of the snow causing problems with the cover. I tend to shovel off the cover when there are several inches on it, or if I am going to use it. That snow can get really heavy.
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Hi
I just moved in a house that has a GCS LX11000
I am completely new to SPA s and I would need some guidance to minimize the energy use when I am not using the SPA for some time
What is the best way to keep the SPA barely alive (standby) with water in for a month while I am away?
1 - Can I shut it down and live the water in? or
2 - Is there a "standby" mode that keeps the SPA at it s minimal vital state? or
3 - Is there a best setup to minimize the energy consumption?
I see 3 parameters
- Start Time
- Duration
- Frequency
What should I put for each of them?
I see that Duration and Frequency can be set to 0, is that a good idea?
What would it mean?
I would greatly appreciate your help
My electricity bill is shoking and I suspect that the SPA has a big role to play
Thanks
Eric
Eric,
what part of the country do you live in? If northern climate, then I would leave the tub on, set temp to 60 degrees F, and shortest filtration cycle possible. However, if you experience a power failure and it is below freezing out, you could freeze your tub, which pretty much ruins all piping/pumps, etc.
If I were the one leaving for a month, I wouldnt do anything different than normal, leave it up to temp, fill the bromine floater, and forget about it. My tub costs me about $30 a month to run, so partially shutting it down doesnt save much.
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We drink in the tub too, but usually, when it is just my wife and I. When we entertain, we keep the soaking time short. Mostly because the temptation to whiz in the tub by the visitors might be too tempting for them.....I don't know that, but I'm just sayin.....
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My Viking Heritage II has a heater/pump scheme called Economy Mode. This means that the spa only heats to the preset temperature when the filter cycle runs which is either 2,4,6,8, or 12 hours every twelver hours (2 cycles per day up to 24hrs continuous).
Is there a problem with the temperature cycling up and down? CSI changes with temperature, but even that only goes from 0.03 at my current levels (102f) to -0.12 at 84f.
I'm thinking that winter's not a great time to try it since any savings I get from the heater not being on for 6 hours will be lost when the spa needs to heat on full for an hour or two. Although, I might be overestimating the temperature drop over 6 hours.
I'm not a fan of economy mode. But we also tend to use our tub almost daily in the winter months. If you think your usage will be similar, then I wouldnt use EM, too much variation in temp. On the otherhand, if you only use your tub once a week, maybe it would pay off. It all depends on usage.
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Sory to post two question in a row, but they are different topics.. I had a concrete slab put in and they did a poor job so it slopes the wrong way underneath the tub. If I hose it down or it rains, water pools up undernath it and stay there. I am wondering how to elevate the tub so that the water does not sit on the bottom of the tub. Will the 2 inch bricks/pavers work? Or is there another way? Thank you.
It depends on your tub and it's specs (whether or not it can take being supported in this manner), but it doesn't sound like something I would recommned. But then again, I'm not and expert of that type of install.
I would think a better way would be to use a concrete leveling product on the slab. Your local building supply place will sell it. Make sure you prepare the surface to ensure proper adhesion, if you go this way. The product manufacturer is the best source for info on use and application...
Sounds like "they" should come back and fix their work, if it was not done correctly. YOu paid to have a pad put in, and now you want to compensate for a poor job and setting yourself up for more problems down the road.
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Own a Great Lakes Sunlighter 2006 hot tub for 3 years. Never a problem. We were in the tub and it simple shut down. There was no noise or nothing happened unusual. THe breaker kicked off and it will not reset. Opened the panel when trying to reset the breaker, the tub cliks but no go! No water, no animals underneath. This manuel I have is pretty worthless. Doesnt show a reset or a diagram of the componets. I hate to say this but I dont know where to start. I prefer not to call for service if I can check things out for myself. I need help. What do I need to check first. Boy, do I need a manual instead of this "how to get started" paperwork!!
With the power shut off take off the cover for the control panel and check the fuse in there for continuity.
Thanks-you-I will try that yet tonight. Again -thanks!
Full owners manuals can be found here. I had a similar scenario with a GL tub, and it turned out to be that the heating element went bad tripping the GFCI immediately. A reset of othe GFCI, would trip it again immediately too. I had the service guy replace the element, but I could have easily done it myself.
As a test, you could try disconnecting the heater, and see if the tub will start, and stay on. Only do this if you are comfortable with electricity and wiring however.
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We have been using our spa and we keep it outside, covered, and at 101 F. Today, the pool was a little cooler, and it was flashing EC on the code. Assuming my husband didn't fiddle with it, I reset the temp 101. just now, I am checking the temp, it says 101 but alternating with EC. I reset the electrical breaker, but it still doing it.
The setting how to's are not in the manual, anyone have a clue? What does EC mean "Economy? Why is it doing this all of a sudden and what is Economy anyways?
Thanks
I don't have an answer for you, but you can call this dealer in my area, and they will know what it means. They have a website www.greatlakesspaparts.com . If you poke around their site, they have a lot of the owners manuals online, where you may find your answser too.
FYI, I am not affiliated with them, other than purchasing two hot tubs from them over the years.
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I can't for the life of me figure out why the pump seal keeps going bad,starts to leak and then takes the motor out. This is the motor and pump assem. that I have had to replace once a year >> http://www.poolsinc.com/store.cfm?Dept=Poo...FTOKEN=55969202 << I don't have hard water and I keep the chemicals right where they are suppose to be. I have yet another replacement pump and motor coming in by the end of the week. I am thinking of taking the pump apart and putting vasline on the seals in hopes of it lasting maybe 2 year. My wife and I us the spa about twice a month. Any suggestion or ideas anyone can think of that might prolong this failure???
When you say "takes the motor out", what do you mean? There is a replaceble seal inside the pump that can be replaced. The failures you mention do see excessive. I dont have any comment on that.
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My mother has a hot tub and for some strange reason the circulation pump runs at low speed all the time, this pump is used to circulate the water when heating and althought the heater does turn off when it gets to temp the pump remains on all the time. If I manually alter the control panel and drop the temp setting down by 5 degrees or more the pump stops the equipment on the tub is Hydroquip 9000, I am unable to find much information on it regarding 24hr circulation and if it is possible to stop this or is it a problem with the tub look forward to some help here.
Generally, you want the circulation pump running all the time. It keeps things fresh. That said, look for settings for the filter cycle. That is usually what controls the circ pump. If it is a Gecko system, there are settings for how long the filter cycle runs from continuous to something less than that.
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Just wondering where you plan on setting it up? If on a raised deck, better look at reinforcing it. that tub full of water and people could be 4000#'s.
I wouldnt put it directly on the dirt either, as that will also cause problems. Minimally, you could use concrete tiles, or build a wooden deck that sets right on the ground.
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Its the same age-old question. Which is more efficient? Maintain the temp, or let it rise and fall? We always leave ours up to temp. I think it uses less juice to maintain, plus we dont plan that far in advance if we are going to use it or not. takes a couple hours to go from 80's to 104.
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Just purchased the GL4 spa. Having buyers remorse. Looking for any input. I saw no comments posted about this spa.
So, are you asking for help, or just wanting to complain? The new GL spa's are made by Emerald. Emerald bought out the old Great Lake Spa company some number of years ago. I used to have one of the old GL spa's, prior to buyout, and it was a great tub. lasted over 10 years.
If you are in the West Michigan area, there is a dealer in Holland who sells GL spa's and has a great service department. I've bought 2 tubs from them.
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that or any flatbed trailer. an empty hottub is 500-800 pounds. Not real heavy.
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I know you shouldnt put tablets directly in the skimmer but is it ok to put a small floater with bromine tablets in the skimmer?
I have done it in the past, no problems. However, they do dissolve much quicker with a steady flow going over them all the time. A floater contols the speed by opening or closing. I just take the floater out while we are in it, so that it doesnt annoy anyone.
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Hi all, I have a Coyote Drifter (by Arctic) with an ozonator. The manual says 3-5ppm for bromine, except if you have an ozone system, consult the ozone manual. Well....I don't HAVE a manual for my ozone system and don't really know what system is used in the Coyote's. The brochure just says "Lippert™ Ozone Water Treatment...The Lippert System creates maximum ozone benefit by utilizing a Corona Discharge generator for higher output, a unique mixing chamber for more contact time, and a Balance Barometer for higher ozone concentration.".
So, is there a general rule of thumb for bromine levels to use with such a system? Thanks!
You are going to get a lot of responses to this.
The correct answer is going to depend on your personal use of the tub. I believe in "less is more" if the water stays clear, and smells good. You may have to experiment over time. I keep a bromine floater going in my tub, that is hardly cracked open. My ozone runs 24/7 on a circulation pump. When I use test strips, Bromine doesnt even register. Water is clear. We dont do much entertaining in the tub, usually just the wife and I. If it gets heavy use, then I usually crush up a bromine tablet and toss it in afterwards.
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Don't know the condition of the tub, but why not just put the pump/heater back in the tub, and fill it with water, and test it that way? I'm afraid that with a high pressure/high volume jet pump, you might fire that baby up, and lose control of it.
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What does the SPA manufacturer recommend/require? Could have warranty problems. For my tub, the manufacturer clearly states:
Place your spa on a solid, flat surface. We recommend a 4 inch thick reinforced concrete pad as the best surface.
• DO NOT PLACE YOUR SPA ON THE GROUND, BRICK, STONE, OR GRAVEL BASE.
• It’s a good idea to have a builder/contractor review your proposed site to see that there are no support problems, i.e. deck, or
cement foundation.
• Keep in mind natural elements such as wind, view, falling leaves, etc.
• We recommend you locate your spa in a locked, fenced-in area to prevent access to the spa by children.
Not saying I agree with them, but if you want warranty coverage, you may have to live with it.
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I am new to the tub world....and thinking about the different chemicals and doses.
I wonder why no one has come up with pre-measured chemical doses.
Wouldnt it be great to have 1/4 oz pills of dichlor kind of like the cascade pouches you throw in your dish washer. You could just grab a couple throw them in the tub after you are done soaking and walk away....easy for when you have had way too much to drink!
Maybe this is me just obsessing about making things easy for the masses...but it sure would be handy.
anyways...just a rambling thought.
Easy for the masses would be auto chemical dispensers that inject the proper amount of chemicals automatically based on testing. You just fill the hopper, so to speak. The problem is that what works for one person may not work for the next. There are a lot of "rules-of-thumb", but no one's recipe is the same. I subscribe to the "less is more" theory for chemicals, others subscribe to "if a little is good, more is better".
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So surprisingly enough Baqua never replied to my questions on how to eradicate white mold. Although there is no evidence of the white mold after super shocking and adding sanitizer to the high end of the test strip (50+ ppm) I did contact my dealer today and they had no idea of what to do in respect to curing a white mold infection. Additionally my dealer never asked my bather load and automatically crossed out the 'heavy use' column out of the recommended addition table, which I feel led to acquiring a white mold problem in addition to only testing weekly. So the result is that I will stick with Baqua, buy the Taylor biguanide test kit, test at least twice a week, maintain biguanide levels higher than my dealer recommanded 'low' levels, and go from there. Although I probably won't post my results again since it's apparent that biguanide has acquired such a bad name and no one seems to be interested in this system of spa chemistry.
SPAFISH,
I think there are two difference scenarios going on. The first, is your situation, heavy use, mold came, you got rid of the mold, no more problems. I am glad to hear about that. The second situation, which is far more common(and is what happened to me), is that after about 3 years of use, the stuff just seems to stop working, period. Kinda like antibiotics in your own body if you use them too much. It is this second situation that everyone seems to talk about, and is what caused me to switch too. I see from your original posting that you are about 8 months into this. So, if the common scenario pans out, you have about 28 more months to go
Enjoy it, don't feel putdown. Just continue with what works for you, in your tub. That is the bottom line. -
A couple of comments.
My experience with Baqua is that once the white mold starts, there is no getting rid of it, and still use Baqua. What happened in my case, is it would appear to be cleared up but was growing in the air lines at or just above the waterline. when you get in the tub with more than the normal people, forcing the waterline higher, and you turn the jets on, you get quite the shot of the built up mold.
I then converted from Baqua to Bromine and have not looked back. The key is figuring out how much Bromine it takes to keep your tub sanitized. A lot of it depends on whether you start with well water, or city water, usage, etc. I am able to run with a fairly low level of Bromine, and keep the water crystal clear. So I was surprised at your comments about the skin irritation when sitting in someone elses Bromine tub. I use a floater to dispense Bromine, and typically only mess with it once a week when checking PH, TA, etc.
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I am looking to purchase an ISP spa, the IS600L. Looking for input on quality and pricing. Any advice would be helpful.
First off, I think you mean IST. And I just bought the IS600(non-lounger).
My opinion is that they are very well made, although not a lot of frills, for about 2/3's the cost of comparably equipped "big name" manufacturers. This tub replaced my 10 year old Great lakes spa, and uses much less electricity.
I am very happy with my purchase.
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I screwed with it some more and I have the threaded kind.
Sorry been away for a few days. so you got the socket out. the new LED light upgrade should just plug into the socket, and then you just put the whole thing back in. You should be good to go...
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Use a hammer and bust the old impellar then use vice grips to hold shaft and wrench to spin the brass insert from the impellar off the shaft. Clean threads and shaft then put new seals and new impellar on. I always put a good silicone lub mon the threads so the next time you need seals I can remove the impellar without breaking it.
That is one way ;-)
There is room on the opposite end of the motor shaft to get a wrench on there to hold it. you will have to take off the cover to get to it, make sure the motor is unplugged before doing this. On my old tub, I had to do this every 2-3 years. It was a tight squeeze but you can get a open ended wrench in there. BTW, it might be reverse threads too, I cant remember offhand.
when replacing this seal, be careful not to touch the graphite/ceramic mating surfaces as this will diminsh the life of the seal.
Once you have done this repair once, it is a 15 minute job.
Dave
Hot Tub Cover
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
I've had this problem, it is normal to some extent. what the dealer told me to do was to take entire styrofoam insert out of the cover, and flip it over and put it back in. Do this for both sides. I did that, made a huge difference.