otis_skywalker
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Posts posted by otis_skywalker
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Yeah, I don't know about buying a viking... Cost a whole lot to heat in the winter, And I have had a few with major issues... whatever you do, don't get the stereo system.
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Hello everyone.
I decided to register and ask a question that I hope someone can help lead me in the right direction. I noticed this week that the power to the tub was out...tripped breaker. So, flipped the breaker, which took 3 attempts before turning on and staying on (this is atypical). Looked at the tub and found the temp. was much lower than the set point (90F and set to 100F). Thought I'd let it run for awhile and warm up...no such luck. The tub runs fine, all pumps, light, etc., but will not heat. So, after ensuring no heat for a couple of days, I removed the panel door and started checking to see if there was any power going to the heater. On the board, the section labeled "heater in" was fine. The section "heater out" had no power reading while the tub was on and supposedly heating the water. I also hear a series of 2 clicks coming from that area of the control panel every 20 to 30 seconds. "click....click (then 20 seconds), Click...click". Haven't noticed this before.
The panel seems fine, on startup, the number 503 and then 888 flash, then all's well. Heater light comes on as is supposed to.
Does anyone have any ideas? Also, I don't know where the heater is on the tub. A couple years ago, I replaced the seals in Pump 1, which is the pump that runs when the heater is on, but I'm unable to locate the heater (not sure what to look for).
Help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Take the four screws out and look at the back of the board, I bet on of the heater relays is burnt off.
OK. Thanks. When I get home today, I'll take a look. I assume the 4 screws you're referring to hold the actual board in place?
I took the board off and you are correct. On the opposite side of the "black box", which has wires labeled "heater out", there seems to have been a small explosion. Looked fairly violent too, due to the burnt residue on the metal housing. All wiring appears OK.
What do you think is my next step? Also, why do you think it blew?
Thanks for the info. in helping though.
Replace the board, or send out for repair...
Those heater relays don't last for ever, probally just failed from normal wear and tear.
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Hello everyone.
I decided to register and ask a question that I hope someone can help lead me in the right direction. I noticed this week that the power to the tub was out...tripped breaker. So, flipped the breaker, which took 3 attempts before turning on and staying on (this is atypical). Looked at the tub and found the temp. was much lower than the set point (90F and set to 100F). Thought I'd let it run for awhile and warm up...no such luck. The tub runs fine, all pumps, light, etc., but will not heat. So, after ensuring no heat for a couple of days, I removed the panel door and started checking to see if there was any power going to the heater. On the board, the section labeled "heater in" was fine. The section "heater out" had no power reading while the tub was on and supposedly heating the water. I also hear a series of 2 clicks coming from that area of the control panel every 20 to 30 seconds. "click....click (then 20 seconds), Click...click". Haven't noticed this before.
The panel seems fine, on startup, the number 503 and then 888 flash, then all's well. Heater light comes on as is supposed to.
Does anyone have any ideas? Also, I don't know where the heater is on the tub. A couple years ago, I replaced the seals in Pump 1, which is the pump that runs when the heater is on, but I'm unable to locate the heater (not sure what to look for).
Help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Take the four screws out and look at the back of the board, I bet on of the heater relays is burnt off.
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Hi everyone,
So i have a 2000 Sundance optima sentry 850 spa. Everytime i turn it on it pops the breaker. So a bunch of people suggested its the heater. so i bought a new smart heater for it. while lookin into the wiring on the panel i noticed some wires that have been removed from where they belong coming from the heater. I have searched everywhere to locate a wire diagram for this spa and im having no luck. So does any body have a complete wiring diagram for this spa? or have any suggestions?
Thanks
2000 optima had a "smart heater", (that didn't work out so well) you probally see two gray wires that were cut. that was a bypass for it. nothing new there.
try disconnecting the wires going to the blower motor at the board then reset the breaker, those heaters on them don't usally cause tripping...
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probally a one time deal. power outages some time causes them to blow, otherwise if it keeps blowing it's a pump issue.
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Sounds to me like you got other issues going on, There's no reason to toast 2 pumps in nine months... You might want to check the line voltage going to the spa, If it's low you'll just keep having issues. btw, What part of the burgh you from?
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if it's a solid flo on the screen it's the flow switch. you have to buy the complete switch to replace it.
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I know that sundance/jacuzzi laid off a whole lot people a few months ago.
I think they should be able to weather storm. but, you never know.
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It needs a new board...and be sure to fix that one wire with a new connector. make sure all other connections are tight also.
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Is there 240 on the board where the red and black connect to it from the terminal bar? if your getting power there, then check the 1 1/4 amp fuse near the transformer plug.
Ok, I checked, I have 240 power at the board, at the red and black wires, and the fuses work. What could this possibly be?
quick ?, how are you testing these fuses?
I am putting the black to ground and the red to one side, and then I check the other side...is this right?
Nope..... there's your problem. Set your meter for 240 volts, put one lead to each side of the fuse with the power on, if you get "0" volts the fuse is good, if you get 240 volts that means the fuse is bad.
Start with the main fuse, I'd bet its blown.
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I would check out Jacuzzi, Sundance, Marquis, HotSpring, Caldera, Dimension One.
That looks like a good group to me as well.
Go to their websites and you'll find a dealer locator for each where all you have to do is enter your zip code and it'll tell you where their nearest dealer is. Visit them all if you can and then wet test the 2 or 3 that you like best.
Agreed with the above, Try before you buy. Most dealers will make the effort to let you wet test one, don't be afraid to ask.
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Is there 240 on the board where the red and black connect to it from the terminal bar? if your getting power there, then check the 1 1/4 amp fuse near the transformer plug.
Ok, I checked, I have 240 power at the board, at the red and black wires, and the fuses work. What could this possibly be?
quick ?, how are you testing these fuses?
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any messages on the screen? is the heater light on?
Thanks for the reply! No messages on the screen, and I don't think there is a heater light?? Where would I find it?
Thanks again!
first check the filter cycles you may have it in economy mode makes sure it is set for F3.
It's set at F3 and the heater light stays on...It just won't heat above 84???
Probally a bad heater, or burnt up heater relay... open the spa pack cover and see if anything looks burnt.
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Is there 240 on the board where the red and black connect to it from the terminal bar? if your getting power there, then check the 1 1/4 amp fuse near the transformer plug.
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any messages on the screen? is the heater light on?
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check for 240 at the terminal bar where the wiring goes to, if only 120 it's your wiring, follow the wires up from the terminal bar and test for voltage (240) on the red and black at the board. if none it's the fuse or bad connection. test for power on transformer plug, 240 on red and black out on the primary side, 10-13 on yellows secondary side. and let me know what you got.
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I'd double check the main fuse. use a ohm meter.
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I bought a used 2005 Sundance Cayman for $1,100 to replace my 17 year old Jacuzzi. I had the Jacuzzi plumbed for gas and in those days they had a "cut out" section that was designed to specifically for gas.
Does anyone know what the output is in GPM (or the horsepower) in the plumbing that contains the in-line heater for the Cayman? I haven't received the Cayman yet, so I am just going by the schematic/drawing of the equipment panel to figure out where I might tap into the plumbing, which I believe is the circ pump. I might have to tap into one of the stronger pumps just to get the flow necessary to get a sufficient flow to my gas heater, which is about 20' away and has about a 2' head.
The Jacuzzi 3/4 HP circ pump was enough to get the water there (but no longer), even with their funky 2-pump set up which didn't even dedicate all the water to the heater.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
I think they use a Laing SM909 NH 18 low flow circ pump, if i remeber right they are 1/18 hp and about 18gpm, they use 3/4 line also. Not going to work for your gas heater. I would use a 1 hp in that situation myself.
The bigger problem is, the logic on that board would run that pump 24 hours a day, not to mention the crazy replumbing job it would take to get that to work right.
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Btw, For you guys who have that problem you can just replace the backs on those jets.. waterway calls the part a diffuser.
cost about 7 bucks per jet compared to 25 a jet.
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It should run... Don't try to wire the element up unless it's installed in the manifold and the spa is full of water and ready to go! You do not want to dry fire that element!
Thanks Otis.
... It WAS the heater. All is well again.
It hurts to say this.... But, I told you so! Good Luck...
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Thanks so much for all your help!!! I am going to replace the board. It is a blown capacitor. My spa is a 2003 sweetwater bahia I am pretty sure the board I need is a 6600-288. Does anyone know if that is the correct board I would hate to order the wrong one? Once I order a new board and install it will I need to do anything else? How much should a new board cost? I have looked online and they seem to range from $200-$300. I called my local Sundance dealer and they want to charge me $375. Please let me know if ordering online is a bad idea? Are there any online sites that are better than the others? Thanks again for all of your help. I can't wait to get my spa fixed!!
befor you spend the money on a board check the transformer it could be bad.
Skywalker is right bad diagnostic did you try to unplug the sensor harness from the board?yes 240 is right.when the pumps shut off does it keep going back to the 888 then 355? or does it say anything else on the screen?
I had a spa repair guy come out today. He told me the problem was the circulation pump. He told me the cost to replace was about $220 including labor. He told me the circulation pump went out and thats why the pumps would only work for a second and then stop and reset the display to star up again showing the 888 and 355. He also told me that why the light will not stay and that the circulation pump also controls the heat. He said it is common for the circulation pump to go out because it runs 24/7. If any one has any experiance with this please let me know. I hope that what he said is right and that our spa will work after the part is replaced.
Bad diagnostics... if it keeps restarting, and saying that 888 355 stuff he's way off track. great price on the circ pump and labor though!
Just unplugged the sensor harness then plugged it back same thing happens. Hear some clicking noise then the display flashes 888 then current water temp then 355. Then if I hit pump one bottom it turns on for a split second and then stops and the display start flashing again. Thanks for all of your suggestions I really appreciate the help
I'd guess a smoked capacitor on the pcb. needs a new board. anyone else agree?
Yeah thats right. 6600-288, and the price is fair.
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Hi yall. Owned this tub for 10 years since new. It has it's second pack. A balboa m7 system. Very good for past five years. It heats great, but the temp is off. I have replaced the temp sensor based on the earlier symptoms of temp being off with 2 brand new sensors. The first sensor did the same thing and so i returned it and received a new one and same thing occurs. I switched the hi limit with the temp sensor and it read almost correct on the top side, but then it was off (under temp) I switched the temp sensor and hi limit and same symptoms are occuring.
I wonder if my cirucit board is toast. It keeps heating over the what I set it at on the top side control.
Pumps run fine
Light works
Jets work
heats
NO CLUE!!! I don't want to pay my hot tub guy. He's earned enough. Any ideas?
is there any restrictions in the line, like half closed slice valves? way too dirty filter? something stuck in the pump? all the jets closed?
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Skywalker is right bad diagnostic did you try to unplug the sensor harness from the board?yes 240 is right.when the pumps shut off does it keep going back to the 888 then 355? or does it say anything else on the screen?
I had a spa repair guy come out today. He told me the problem was the circulation pump. He told me the cost to replace was about $220 including labor. He told me the circulation pump went out and thats why the pumps would only work for a second and then stop and reset the display to star up again showing the 888 and 355. He also told me that why the light will not stay and that the circulation pump also controls the heat. He said it is common for the circulation pump to go out because it runs 24/7. If any one has any experiance with this please let me know. I hope that what he said is right and that our spa will work after the part is replaced.
Bad diagnostics... if it keeps restarting, and saying that 888 355 stuff he's way off track. great price on the circ pump and labor though!
Just unplugged the sensor harness then plugged it back same thing happens. Hear some clicking noise then the display flashes 888 then current water temp then 355. Then if I hit pump one bottom it turns on for a split second and then stops and the display start flashing again. Thanks for all of your suggestions I really appreciate the help
I'd guess a smoked capacitor on the pcb. needs a new board. anyone else agree?
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yes 240 is right.
when the pumps shut off does it keep going back to the 888 then 355? or does it say anything else on the screen?
I had a spa repair guy come out today. He told me the problem was the circulation pump. He told me the cost to replace was about $220 including labor. He told me the circulation pump went out and thats why the pumps would only work for a second and then stop and reset the display to star up again showing the 888 and 355. He also told me that why the light will not stay and that the circulation pump also controls the heat. He said it is common for the circulation pump to go out because it runs 24/7. If any one has any experiance with this please let me know. I hope that what he said is right and that our spa will work after the part is replaced.
Bad diagnostics... if it keeps restarting, and saying that 888 355 stuff he's way off track. great price on the circ pump and labor though!
Pressure Filter
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
Like the good Dr. said, that bypass got nothing to do with it.
Your spa probally has the old poly jets in them, they have a oring on the back that goes bad and stop drawing air in with them.
you might need to remove them and replace the orings.