otis_skywalker
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Posts posted by otis_skywalker
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try cleaning the connection between the pc board and the control panel.
Power down the spa unplug the panel (its the phone cord lookin one on on upper right hand of board) clean and plug back in.
Sometimes this will get it going again.
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Here's a lil update. I bought a circ pump and haven't installed it yet. The tub will work fine most of the time, but now whenever I lower the temperature, the flo error comes up. It seems like the circ pump shuts off. If it was going bad, would it work most of the time and shut off when I turn down teh temp? or does it sound like something else?
Thats a bad flow sw.
If the flo is displayed solid on the screen it's the flow sw. If it's flashing flo, it's the circ pump.
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First off-
Thanks to those of you who share knowledge on this forum, it has been a huge help getting off the ground with our first spa.
Now for the problem...
We bought a used spa, an older L.A. Spas "Nice" model. The switching is pneumatic. Today, I had my electrician out and we wired everything up. The good news is, the jets, blower, and light all seems to be functioning properly, as are the switches that control them. The bad, is that there is an awful noise that I hear coming from the controller both when I turn off the blower, and when I turn down the themostat. Some poking around has me thinking that it is the contactors "chattering", making a noise kinda like a clothes dryer buzzing at the end of cycle.
My first thought is to replace the contactors. Does that seem like the thing to do?
Beyond that, I am concerned that the high limit switch might be wonky (I don't feel any resistance when I push or pull on it), and the timer looks pretty faded, but may work fine. I haven't wanted to leave the system on long enough to know if I'm getting heat, we live in an urban area and I don't want to bum our *very* nearby neighbors out with the contactor noise.
I'm pretty confident I can replace any bad parts pretty easily. I have rebuilt mixing boards, tube amplifiers and can do some car repair, so what I'm seeing in the tub's guts isn't terribly frightening. Still, I wonder if it would make sense to replace the guts wholesale, and not be stuck with another ongoing project. Any thoughts?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Ryan
Definetly sounds like bad contactors to me... Easy to replace, just make sure you get the right coil voltage.
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I cut about an 1/8 inch slot in the center of the new clip where the strap rides, turn it sideways and feed the strap through the cut in the clip. It's hard to explain but easy to do.
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probally from being banged around.. I'd bet the board is ok. replace the sensor.
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I'll help also... for 2 weeks... aleast.
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Hello- I have a Del Sol Redando Spa that has two temperature sensors (one in the tub and one at the heater core). Both connect to the circuit board. I have taken the temperature sensor out of the tub in hopes of tricking the high-limit of 104 degrees. When I want the temperature of the spa a bit more than 104-105 degrees, I just pull the sensor out of the water. It works somewhat but the reading on the control display is much higher compared to a mercury thermometer I put in the water, even with the sensor back in the water. The differential is 14 degrees. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance. -Phil
So your saying with the temp sensor in the water, it reads a 104- but the water is really 90...
if so the sensor is bad.
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Take my opinion for what's worth, I'm just another fool on the internet...
But, I have been serviceing spas for about 10 years. I am Independent service company. I do not sell spas, so I have no loyalty to any brand per say.
Cal spas are average quality at best. They use they same balboa controls as 80% of they spas out there. I can tell you I have seen a few new shells cracking around the led lights... And quite a few leakers that were brand new.
I don't feel that their customer service is all that great either. Costco can't help you there, where a dealer could.
Go try a sundance, jacuzzi, d1, marq... what ever.
Look around, wet test, and ask questions... Find a dealer who will stand behind what he sells. 5-6 grand is alot of money these days!
I'm not bashing Costco either, I feel that spas are kind of a specialty items that need a dealer with qualified people to handle any issues you might have.
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In my opinion, I would shy away from cal spas at all costs...
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I would definetly stay away from calspa...
Out of the rest I would go for the certa.
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Ivan,
Make sure your in standard mode, Then set the cycles...
I could tell how to set it but you'd be better off to print the manual which can be found here
http://www.sundancespas.com/Communications...als/1997750.pdf
Don't forget, your spa uses military time!
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Since I was right, Do I get a free weekend at the cabin???
Just kiddin' Your welcome ~ Otis
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My guess... It's set to economy mode.
Press and hold the up and down temp buttons, then set to f3, It should stay on and heating in that mode...
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if it has a "excellent" (brand name) transformer in it, that is the problem... replace it.
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I seen a guy at one of the spa/pool shows a quite while back selling just this type of thing, it was a frame on metal ball bearing looking wheels. He was marketing them for showroom floor use which I thought was a good idea, but I don't know anyone who bought one.
They kinda looked like this with wheels instead of pads. http://www.thespalevel-r.com/index.html
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Hello everyone, this is my first post and I need some advise.
I have not run my sundance since last fall. When I filled it and turned it on the watchdog ---- showed on the panel. I called a service guy(no sundance dealer around here) and he showed this morning and tested the tub. Everything showed good, so he says the board needs to be replaced.
The board #6600-027 rev4.50c. There seems to be two boards for the 750, are they interchangable?
Any advice or help you can give me will be much appreciated.
Ivan.
There are 2 boards, 6600-027 (This is the correct one) comes with rev4.50d and is for spas that have a circ pump, 6600-059 for a non-circ pump model, you can use this board and reuse you original eprom.
But, I'd bet you don't need a pc board. Most of the time, It's a bad temp sensor on sundance spas that cause a watchdog mode. (part 6600-167) It's about 40.00 as opposed to 400.00 for a board.
If I'm wrong your only out 40 bucks, but if I'm right you saved 400.00... definetly worth a shot, and you could change that sensor your self.
Let me know if it works.
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Is the light you are reffering to lit up in green on the top? If so, there is no problem. that should be lit, it indicates that there is good water flow.
If the spa is flashing "flo" on the red temperature display that would mean there is an error and you should call service, otherwise your good.
Your owners manual can be found here http://www.sundancespas.com/Communications...ls/99750850.pdf
Good Luck
Otis.
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if I remember right, there is not one... it's all hartford loop deal on that one, if you just moved the spa thats probally why it got wet in there... (flipped on it's side to move).
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http://www.spaandpoolsource.com/6500-75965...-speedpump.aspx
here's one. make sure it comes with the bracket, or order one also.
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Thats a hack move to me...Those pumps are not hard to come by... Sundance part# 6000-125, old part# 6500-035. both are interchangable.
Although it will work if they changed the Eprom chip to a non-permaclear logic one . (Which I would make sure they did)
I like a circ pump on them, because it's quieter, more efficent, better filtration and more ozone in the water.
Is this being done at a cost to you? or is this under warranty from spring? Either way it's yours, and if you happy with it this way... leave it.
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it's normal.
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The circ pump does not "send error information" to the board... The flow switch reads if the circ is functioning correctly or not, if no flow threw the switch, then it flashes flo on the screen and disables the heater.
From what you are describing, The circ pump is just probally bad.
When the flo error was on the screen, did it go away when ever you turned the two speed pump on low? If so then its the circ pump...
The circ pump draws water off of the pressure side of the 2 speed pump, when you turn the pump it will push water through the non-op circ, heater & flow sw... so the spa will heat when the 2 speed pump is on.
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the one with the sunstar label is the new one.. it will have a flat lock on it, where as the other will have kinda like 2 prongs on it... they are both equal quality.
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that looks right to me.. the open end is the air intake.
Sundance Marin Heating Problem
in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Posted
the second pump (one on the left) is a single speed pump, so that is ok.
the 3 relays on the bottom of the board are all for the heater, no pumps connect there.
are you sure the spa is calling for heat? is the little icon on the screen lit up?
make sure that the spa is in "standard mode" then and that icon is lit. if so, test for 240 combined volts (NOT FOR POWER TO GROUND ON EACH WIRE)on the red and black at the heater. if no 240 the relays are probally bad. if 240 is there the heater is bad.