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Well, after removing the top of the unit to check the blower switch hose and giving everything one last once-over, I found another problem. the small passage with the blower heat switch at the end was plugged up with wet leaves. This must have caused some kind of fault because after cleaning it out, the heater is now running fine! Big thanks to everyone for the help, except grandee1 of course for suggesting I give up! (just kidding) Believe me, I had thrown up my hands more than once, only to find what I thought was another reasonable solution. I have heard too many stories of so-called experts with mis diagnosed problems to give up. Even though I bought a couple extra parts than I needed, I'm glad I worked my way through it, I'll be better educated if/when I have another problem. Thanks again.

SUCCESS!... Sort of. The temp sensor did the trick, the heater fires up, but now will not stay lit. ( Here's the scenario: 1. Turn on 2. Purge/fan high 3. Igniter is visible through window/fan on low 4. Burner lights/fan on low (about 15 seconds) 5. fan turns on high and gas shuts off at the same instant 3 to 5 repeats a few times then I get a fan pressure fault light on the control panel. One thing that is unusual is that during #4, steam is coming out of the fan. We did just have some rain. Any ideas? Thanks for the help so far.

10-4, it's on the way.

OK, with my meter set on 20k, I get a reading of 2.25. That means a value of 40.5 ohms right?

thanks again, ive been out in the desert playing all week. I'm more of a nuts and bolts guy, tell me if i;m reading the multimeter right. I set the switch on the arrow with a + sort of attached looking symbol and it reads like 1.764. That is out of range? with that reading, does my heater think the water is really cold or really hot? Hot, i hope... can I trick this circuit to verify? I've been all over this thing looking for loose wires and bad grounds, I'm pretty sure there are none. Yes, it's a low nox.

Still trying to figure this thing out. Since there's no fault codes, I'm wondering if the temp sensor might be faulty. Anyone know what the range of resistance should be? I measured about 1.8 ohms with a water temp of approx. 70 deg. Anything else that would cause no call for heat? Thanks. Pool Clown, you have an email.

I am now pretty well stumped. later in the same day that the heater fired up after I disconnected the RS remote, I hit the heater button and nothing, I'm right back to the original symptom. Voltage up to the controller, no voltage on the way to the limit switches. No idea why it decided to fire up that one time.

found an aqualink troubleshooting guide. It sys if the heater doesn't fire, check the temp sensor. The display on the device does show an accurate temp, can it still be sending an incorrect signal to the heater?

After figuring out that the jandy RS remote signal comes through the firemans switch block, I simply disconnected it and ran a loop. Sure enough, the heater functions fine when turned on manually. My aqualink manual has no real diagnostic info, where can I get some? The time calibration says -24 5 now, doesn't seem right. How do I calibrate? Thanks again. At least I can use my spa now,I understand that I should run the pump a few minutes after I turn off the spa though.

under diagnostics on my aqualink, time calibration says "-24 2". Is that a problem? I found noting in the manual on calibrating time.

I do have an aqualink RS. With no fault codes, I thought maybe the senor? A "call for heat" sounds exactly like what I'm not getting. I'll start reading that manual and see what I find.

I just love it when a plan comes together. Unfortunately, this is not one of those times!... Replaced the control panel and still nothing. The only thing that happens is the led's on the panel do their little test sequence. from there I get no fan pre-warm up thing, no light, no nuthin'. I also do not have any fault lights on the front panel and no fault code where the blinking led would show under the service panel. I have used a multi meter to confirm that the transformer, fuse and pressure switch are all functioning correctly. There is no voltage leaving the controller on it's way to the limit switches, which is the next diagnostic in the sequence. Anyone else have any ideas? Anyone here a service tech in so cal that needs some work? I also saw the diagnostic flow chart, but that all seems to be based on fault lights or codes, which I have none. Am I missing anything there? Thanks again.

The one hi limit can go it is on the right side up top near the exhaust fan port. I can't remember off hand if it has a red reset button in the middle or not. One other thing to try is to jump out hi limits, pres sw etc one at a time and see if the heater fires. The problem is that there is no voltage to jump across the limit switches. Voltage in the limit switch circuit is supposed to travel FROM the controller, to the input of the 150 limit switch, output of the 150, input of the 135, output of the 135, then back to the controller. I have no voltage coming out of the controller. Sounds like i'm answering my own question, it's just not what I want to hear...

My heater basically quit working completely. After a bit of dilly-dallying, I got down to business and went through the exact step by step circuit troubleshooting in the manual with a volt meter. Transformer, OK Fuse, OK pressure switch, OK Next up is the limit switch test, which basically says if there is no voltage coming out of the control panel to the 150 limit switch (test point 11 on the wiring diagram), then either the entire control panel, or the 10 pin harness needs to be replaced. A harness is something that would generally show some kind of visible failure like a burnt, pinched, etc. wire and I found none. The controller itself is a circuit board, which is of course not as easy to "see" a failure. My questions are these: 1. can anyone comment on if a controller failure is common or likely? 2. Have I followed the correct path of troubleshooting? 3. Any other tests that arent in my manual to verify that the controller is in fact the culprit? The followed the troubleshooting sequence to the letter and it points straight to the controller, but I want to be sure before I drop $600 on a non-returnable part Any help will be greatly appreciated.