Peter Smit

Thanks Andy! I started the tub again this week and the problem was gone....... and yes, the temperature said 8 degrees :-) so that will have solved the problem. When refilling again I will make sure to preheat the water.

Hi Isaac, I am located in the Scotland (but originally from Holland). We use fuses, but technically thats almost the same as a breaker. It looks like the fuse blowing is only a side effect as the hottub has been working fine for a few years. The problem is that, without me touching anything the blower and second pump come on at full power continuesly....

We have a Balboa-Spaform DEM-SF273-FCAH When turning the electricity on: the blower and 2 pumps activate and> the 13Amp fuse triggers (in the house, connected by electrician). To solve this I disconnected the 2nd pump and the blower from the unit unplugging the connectors. Now the 1st pump runs normally. But the unit still tries to activate the blower and 2nd pump by itself (as indicated on display and clicking noise). When I turn both these off using the display buttons the jacuzzi starts heating up.... for about 10 seconds and then the pump and blower are activated on the display again (which deactivates the heating again). Any ideas what causes this? Would it be the control panel buttons that connect... or is it more likely to be a problem in the "main control box unit" inside the jacuzzi? Or something else? Trying to save $$$$ on rapairman coming .......

We have the same problem with my wife being allergic to Bromine. I now found out she is also allergic (rash and itching) to Diclor. I have bought Aquablanc and in addition to that shock the tub with unscented bleach (<5% chlorine, Tesco, UK) after every use. Next day I try to have the chlorine to near zero... I still have to figure out how much bleach to use (without an initial dose of dichlor). Any tips to keep this system safe? PS. We always keep pH, Alk, CH in range, have an ozonator and if we have a party we empty the tub afterwards to water the garden. PSS. We travel a lot and are generally at home for 2 weeks and then away for 3 weeks and everytime we shut off the tub and empty it. Enzymes would be a bit expensive for this setup...

I am fairly new at this! To my knowledge there are 2 options: 1: add some MPS (non-chlorine shock) into the filter after each use (dose depending on how many people x time) and set the floater at lower level. alo see: http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=10492) 2: add some liquid chlorine after use and set floater at lower level. Peter

Same for me, much time had to be invested . I have concluded that Bromine is the easy way, espacially as my wife has to do most of the maintenance. I am very new to his, so bare with me... but I have started to make a guideline so my wife can do the maintenance (see below). It is a work in progress. _________________________________________________________ Dummies proof... guideline for Hot Tub (with ozonator and approx 250 Gallons) using Bromine Watersource: CH 80ppm / ALK: 80ppm / PH 6.8 To Buy: * CH/Alk/Ph/Brom teststrips * Calcium Chloride (CH increaser) * PH+ * Sodium Bromide * Bromine tablets and floating dispenser * Filter cleaner (chemical) * Foam way * Oxi Shock * ........... (Spa water clarifier. Collects small particles into large masses to be removed by the filter.) _________________________________________ * 1 spare set of filters * 1 small electronic Weighing scale (2- 5 gram increments) * 1 large airtight container for all chemicals * 1 10L bucket to disolve each chemical (individually!) and a stirring stick Starting up from empty * Check if filters are in (bottom right) * Check if emptying valve at the back is closed * Fill with water till halfway down the overflow in right bottom corner putting the hose into the filter compartment (preventing airpocket problems) * Put electricity on and check if jets are working, if not bleed pumps DO NOT RUN FOR MORE THAN 2 MIN IF NO WATER FROM JETS! * Set to STD (Standard) (warming up to 40 degrees Celcius will take around 1 hour per 3 degrees Celcius). * Add 20 gram of Calcium Hardness increaser * Follow: "Getting the right waterbalance" * Add ¼ tablet of Bromine info filter compartment * Put floater in with (4) tablets of Bromine and valve opened to 2 gaps. * Wait 3-5 minutes and put jets to "low" and close cover and straps! * Keep STD mode (and run for 8-24 hours) * When Water at 40 degress Celcius follow: "Getting the right waterbalance" again * Add 50ml of antifoam _________________________________________ Before using the Hot Tub An hour or longer before follow guideline "Getting the right waterbalance" and set menu to STD Check waterlevel (fill to about half way up the top skimmer, if nessecary) After using the Hot Tub: 1: Set Hot Tub to: ECO mode (or to SLP mode when not using it in the next 48 hours--> temp 10 degrees below set point) 2: Add blue/white floater to the water and check if at least 1/2 tablet of bromine and valve open 2-3 vents 3: Put Diverters in middle position 4: Remove headrests when not using hot tub for 48 hours or longer (will deteriorate due do Ozone and chemicals) 5: Add insulation blanket to cover the water 6: Add Cover and strap it "Getting the right waterbalance" * Fold back cover * Press "JETS" button twice to high speed * Take 1 strip out of container (keep everything dry) and close it * Put measuring stick in (30cm deep) and keep it horizontal after taking it out * Check color against levels on the back of container and write down the 4 levels (CH/Alk/PH/Bromine) ADDING CHEMICALS: NEVER MIX! ALWAYS FILL 8L (3 GALLON) BUCKET WITH WARM WATER FROM HOT TUB, STIR TILL DISSOLVED AND POOR INTO FILTER COMPARTMENT. DO THIS WITH EACH CHEMICAL INDIVIDUALLY AND WAIT 5-10MIN BEFORE ADDING THE NEXT CHEMICAL! Calcium Hardness (CH) (ideal level 100-200 ppm) If to low add CH+ (5gram per 10ppm for 250 gallon) If to high add CH- (5gram per 10ppm for 250 gallon) Alkalinity (ideal level 80 and 120) ALK LOW and PH LOW: follow directions for PH ALK LOW ad PH high: ??? ALK HIGH and PH HIGH: follow directions for PH ALK HIGH: and PH low: slowly add PH+ (add 10gr per 2 hours and retest) PH (add PH+-) (Perfect: 7.5; ideal range is 7.4 to 7.6, acceptable 7.2 to 7.8). For each 0.1 point below 7.5 add 2.5 gram of PH+ HIGH: For each 0.1 point above 7.5 add 2.5 gram of PH- Bromine (Ideal 3-4) (when filling the Hot Tub from empty the Bromine will be "0"). LOW: Add a few gram of Bromine into filter compartment, (for next time adjust Bromide Floater to 1 more gap) HIGH: Run jets and air on high power in the open air (sun) for 10min per ppm to high and retest. If still high, continue running and/or remove 2cm of water for every point to high and refill. Do NOT use hot tub when Bromine is above 10ppm! Wait 60 minutes after all adjustments before retesting. _____________________________________________________ After each 6 uses (hours x people) (4 person for 30min = 2 uses) or at least every week days: * Add 20ml of antifoam * Add .. gram Oxishock (till Bromine is 10) and run jet at full power with open cover for 30min * Check Alk/PH/Bromine Every week: Clean sides with vinager Check floating dispenser and add Bromine tablets if necessary Follow directions: "Getting the right waterbalance" Add 10ml MPS and 5ml extra for each hour (multiplied by number of persons) to a maximum of 50ml Every 2 weeks Rinse filter, without using the filter cleaner Monthly Change filters, wash the used ones with hose and put overnight in a bucket with ..ml Spa Cartridge Cleaner. Next day rince them thorougly and let them dry and store them for next change Every 2-3 month empty and refill the Hot Tub *Choose A or B: * A: 1 day before, remove bromine floater and do not add chemicals anymore * B: Run hot tub with: Spa flush or Swirl Away Pipe Cleaner (add ..gr and run for ..min) then -->. * Cut of power to the Tub. * Open valve at the back of Hot Tub and let water run. check tube extension to ensure proper draining. * When empty, add 1/2 cup bleach to 3 gallons (10L) of water and sponge clean the spa shell. Rinse with ample fresh water. * Change filter (see "Change filter") Change Filter: * Remove filter (see picture below) and immediately replace with spare filter! * Rinse filter thoroughly with hose * Add ..ml filter cleaner (or just dissolve a dishwashertablet in hot water) to bucket and add enough water so filters are below waterlevel * Let it stand overnight (or min 8 hours) * Next day rinse out thoroughly and store to dry Holliday empty 0: Fully remover cover!!! 1: Turn temparature to low (30degrees or so). 2: Add +-50 grams of OXIshock to the water 3: Run jets at full power in STD mode 4: Wait 2-3 hours!!! 5: Turn Hot tub OFF at breaker in the Summerhouse 6: Open Valve to empty (3-4 hours...) 7: Remove filters and clean them in a bucket with the hose!!! and put filters in summerhouse to dry 8: Empty last bit of water from Hot Tub with bucket 9: Add 1 Bromine tablet to middle of hot tub in the water 10 Add wooden beam, cover and black plastic and secure it! 11: Done

Search for balboa 501 on this forum and you will find: http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=12117 Also search for Insulation and you will find many tips.

1: Consider turning the tub around so the pump is at the other end 2: make sure the tub does not make contact with the wall of your house (contactnoise) 3: Put some rubberpadds or something like it under the spa, reducing contactnoise. 4: Consider making the sidepanels thicker using wood or something heavy as only heavy materials will do a good job in sound insulation. 5: Search for insulation in the forum for tips on heat insulation. 6: MAke sure the cabinett doors are airtight at the window side (using insulation strips) this will help insulation as well.

If the new one is outside, you might not need the "Sunroom company". Why not take the old tub out in pieces.....? It should not be difficult for some to do that :-)

Somebody had the idea to sit on our cover.... and it broke. I used an expanding (and bonding) filler you normally use for filling gaps insulating a wall, etc. It worked perfectly as the filler also bonded the styrofoam together again. The wholes in the plastic I closed again with glue and after that I put the whole sheet between 2 wooden boards with some weight on it so it only filled the gaps while setting. Another cheap solution for a waterlogged cover I found on: http://www.epinions.com/content_2270142596

This might be an idea--> http://www.rhtubs.com/store/float.htm Floating Blanket Leash If you use a cover lifter and a floating blanket this is something you wont know how you ever did without. The Floating Blanket Leash attaches your floating blanket to your spa cover so that when you open your cover, and remove it with the cover lifter, the floating blanket is automatically removed at the same time. No longer will you need to manually remove your floating blanket, and figure out where to put it when you use your spa. Your floating blanket will also remain clean since it will be gently hanging over your insulating cover on top of the cover lifter. Works on all types of floating blankets, bubble or foam. I do not have one myself.....

I guess it depends n the strength of your cover and on the strenght of the "strings" that secure it. My cover is not that strong/thick (not an Arctic) so for the winter I have a wooden plank under the cover (with cross in the middle (that does not stick out above the hot tub) and also use a strong tarp that is secured with a rope. It is a bit of a hassle, but especially if you expect a storm it will protect the cover/hottub.

Well it does seem like a nice feature. My gf and I did not like the way it sat up high forming a "wall" when it was folded off, we liked having it clean/open air around all 4 sides. Altough the covermate II does provide a lower profile. Also it does cost $250-$300 dollars it seems, which is still a consideration as well. We thought maybe we'll start without one and get it if necessary. We just bought a cover lifter for USD 78 (44 Pounds) in the UK and that was including USD 19 postage. Also I thought that USD 200-300 is way to much for a bit of tub(b)ing. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=320302623108

Keep the dog outside the Hot Tub! I have heard that the urine of a dog has 50 times more bacteria. Do some research on the internet! Also have a look at: http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=13136 for a guide (in developpment) on how to maintain a hot tub with Bromine.

As far as I understand the added Ozon will help kill bacteria. It will lower the amount of chemicals used... I just bought a Hot Tub and because I can not find an all in one guideline to maintain the water, etc. I am in the process of writing one. Below is my first draft. I have choosen Bromine because they say it is one of the easiest systems. Dummies proof... guideline for Hot Tub (with ozonator and approx 250 Gallons) using Bromine I first tested the watersource. Results: CH 79ppm (info from watercompany) / ALK: 80ppm / PH 6.8 To Buy: * CH/Alk/Ph/Brom teststrips * Calcium Chloride (CH increaser) * PH+ * Sodium Bromide * Bromine tablets and floating dispenser * Filter cleaner (chemical) * Foam way * Oxi Shock * ........... (Spa water clarifier. Collects small particles into large masses to be removed by the filter.) _________________________________________ * 1 spare set of filters * 1 small electronic Weighing scale (2- 5 gram increments) * 1 large airtight container for all chemicals * 1 10L bucket to disolve each chemical (individually!) and a stirring stick Starting up from empty * Check if filters are in (bottom right) * Check if emptying valve at the back is closed * Fill with water till halfway down the overflow in right bottom corner put the hose into the filter compartment (preventing airpocket problems) * Put electricity on and check if jets are working, if not bleed pumps DO NOT RUN FOR MORE THAN 2 MIN IF NO WATER FROM JETS! * Set to STD (Standard) (warming up will take around 8 hours...........) * Follow instructions "Getting the right waterbalance" * Put floater in with 4 tablets of Bromine (and valve opened (2 gaps at bottom). * Only go in the Hot Tub 8 hours after startup. * Keep STD mode (and run for 8-24 hours) * Wait 3-5 minutes and put jets to "low" and close cover and straps! * 8-24 hours later follow: "Getting the right waterbalance" again * Add 50ml of antifoam _________________________________________ Before using the Hot Tub An hour or longer before follow guideline "Getting the right waterbalance" and set menu to STD Check waterlevel (fill to about half way up the top skimmer, if nessecary) After using the Hot Tub: 1: Set Hot Tub to: ECO mode (or to SLP mode when not using it in the next 24 hours--> temp 10 degrees below set point) 2: Add blue/white floater to the water and check if at least 1 tablet of bromine and valve open 2-3 vents 3: Put Diverters in middle position 4: Remove headrests (will deteriorate due do Ozone and chemicals) 5: Add insulating cover on top of water 6: Add Cover and straps "Getting the right waterbalance" * Fold back cover * Press "JETS" button twice to high speed * Take 1 strip out of container (keep everything dry) and close it * Put measuring stick in (30cm deep) and keep it horizontal after taking it out * Check color against levels on the back of container and write down the 3 levels (CH/Alk/PH/Bromine) ADDING CHEMICALS: NEVER MIX! ALWAYS FILL 10L (3 GALLON) BUCKET WITH WARM WATER FROM HOT TUB, STIR TILL DISSOLVED AND POOR INTO FILTER COMPARTMENT. DO THIS WITH EACH CHEMICAL INDIVIDUALLY! Calcium Hardness (CH) (ideal level 100-200 ppm) If to low add CH+ (5gram per 10ppm for 250 gallon) If to high add CH- (5gram per 10ppm for 250 gallon) Alkalinity (ideal level 80 and 120) ALK LOW and PH LOW: follow directions for PH ALK LOW ad PH high: ??? ALK HIGH and PH HIGH: follow directions for PH ALK HIGH: and PH low: slowly add PH+ (add 10gr per 2 hours and retest) PH (add PH+-) (Perfect: 7.5; ideal range is 7.4 to 7.6, acceptable 7.2 to 7.8). For each 0.1 point below 7.5 add 2.5 gram of PH+ HIGH: For each 0.1 point above 7.5 add 2.5 gram of PH- Bromine (Ideal 3-4) (when filling the Hot Tub from empty the Bromine will be "0"). LOW: Add ??gr Sodium Bromide for each point below 3, (for next time adjust Bromide Floater to 1 more gap) HIGH: Run jets and air on high power in the open air (sun) for 10min per ppm to high and retest. If still high, contunue running and/or remove 2cm of water for every point to high and refill. Do NOT use when Bromine is above 10ppm! Wait 60 minutes after all adjustments before retesting. _____________________________________________________ After each 6 uses (hours x people) (4 person for 30min = 2 uses) or at least every week: * Add 20ml of antifoam * Add .. gram Oxishock (till Bromine is 10) and run jet at full power with open cover for 30min * Check Alk/PH/Bromine Every week: Clean sides with vinager Check floating dispenser and add Bromine tablets if necessary Follow directions: "Getting the right waterbalance" Add 10ml MPS and 5ml extra for each hour (multiplied by number of persons) to a maximum of 50ml Every 2 weeks Rinse filter, without using the filter cleaner Monthly Change filters, wash the used ones with hose and put overnight in a bucket with ..ml Spa Cartridge Cleaner. Next day rince them thorougly and let them dry and store them for next change Every 2-3 month empty and refill the Hot Tub *Choose A or B: * A: 2 days before, remove bromine floater and do not add chemicals anymore * B: Run hot tub with: Spa flush or Swirl Away Pipe Cleaner (add ..gr and run for ..min) then -->. * Open valve at the back of Hot Tub and let water run. check tube extension to ensure proper draining. * When empty, add 1/2 cup bleach to 3 gallons (10L) of water and sponge clean the spa shell. Rinse with ample fresh water. * Change filter Shut Hot Tub down and remove electricity socket Drain Hot Tub, open valve at back, and clean inside gently with pressure washer Change Filter: * Remove filter (see picture below) and immediately replace with spare filter! * Rinse filter thoroughly with hose * Add ..ml filter cleaner to bucket and add enough water so filters are below waterlevel * Let it stand overnight (or min 8 hours) * Next day rinse out thoroughly and store to dry Problem solving: .................

Have a look at the tips here: http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=13095. Regarding thickness: As thick as possible... especially if the outside temp is a lot lower than the 100 degrees in the tub.

I am VERY new to this!!!, but logically you can run it for a long time as long as nobody goes into your spa ..... The question will be how much bacteria the users will add ...... I guess you can use it the longest time when all user have a thorough shower (and scrub) just before using the SPA (shower next to it might be a good idea).And I guess a toilet... because the waterquality will go down quickly when somebody empties its bladder.... So a next question will be how well you can control these variables.. are you having guests (and/or children) or is it just you using it? So the question is how much bacteria your ioniser can handle and if it kills ALL bacteria....? I guess the only way to be sure would be to test the water (in a laboratory) for bacteria. Maybe there are other options, like a chemical that completely evaporates.... or Baqua spa or adding hydrogen peroxide after using some chorine??? Also make sure you supershock your tubb just before emptying to make sure all the piping is clean....

Close for the winter??? NO, we are going to use it, but with a lower electricity bill.

I have about the same project coming up in the next 2 months or so. From reading other messages my plan is as follows (some ideas might be to much for you, as our electricity is very expensive in Scotland): Important: Make sure the pump motors do not get to hot I will test cabinet temparature afterwards and make adjustments (ventilation, maybe with tepm controlled ventilator or open vent when using hot tub and on warm summerday) if nessecary! 1: Put (waterresistant) 10mm underfloor isolating boards under hot tub 2: Air tighten cabinetdoors with insulation strips 3: Add 1 inch of styrofoam panels to inside of cabinet (doors) finished with reflextive bublewrap. 4: Add floating Spa cover onto the water. 5: Fill up 3/4 of hot tub (not the machine compartment) with waterresistent and easily removable) insulation material (empty plastic botles, bubblewrap).

It must be possible to set up a few guidelines depending on each system for waterbalancing people use.......... I will try to make one for using our hot tub and post it here, so other people might profit from it as well. I am travelling a lot and my wife, etc. should also be able to maintain the hot ub when I am away without spending hours of reading, etc.

Thanks for the help. I adjusted my buying list. I got a bit confused with all the new names. I now understand that the Shock and the waterclarifier that you add about weekly are different. Next will be to make a scedule of what and how to do when.....

Any remarks / ideas? Guideline for Hot Tub (with ozonator and approx 250 Gallons) using Bromine I first tested the tap-water. Results: ALK: 80ppm / PH 6.8 / CH 79ppm (CH is info from watercompany) To Buy: * Alk/Ph/Brom teststrips (50) * Calcium Chloride (CH increaser) (1Kg) * PH+ (1Kg) * Bromine tablets and floating dispenser (1Kg) * Filter cleaner (chemical) (2L) * Foam way (2L) * Oxi Shock * Spa Sparkle (Spa water clarifier. Collects small particles into large masses to be removed by the filter.) (1Kg) _________________________________________ * 1 spare set of filters * 1 small electronic Weighing scale (2- 5 gram increments) * 1 large airtight container for all chemicals * 1 10L bucket to disolve each chemical (individually!) and a stirring stick PS We bought second-hand Spaform Prestige 30... (6 years old) on E-bay and have no instructions!

Update I contacted the seller and their details are wrong, it will not work above 50degrees celcius So does anybody have a (simple) plan B?

Our Hot tub has very poor insulation. I am thinking of adding full insulation on all the cabinet doors using polystyrene and reflective bubblue foil. Because the motor(s) might get to hot (how hot is to hot? 125degrees?) when the Hot Tub is fully used an heat sensored extractor would be best, but to difficult and expensive for me. As an alternative I thought about an: Heat-Activated Window (cabinet door) Opener http://www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?...amp;cat=2,43224 like the ones used in greenhouses. I would hinge the cabinet door next to the motor and add the opener. Does anybody has any experience with this? or comments?