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About zillafan

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  1. Thanks, CYA = Cyanuric Acid, correct? Does the 'boost' on the SWG have the same effect as shocking the water? The owners manual never really talks about when to use boost.
  2. I got the same info from my pool guys. Heat pumps are fine when working with small differences between air temp and water temp. If you want larger differences (warm pool on a cold day) go with the fired heater.
  3. Not sure what it is, but how do I get rid of it? (Chloramines?) The water looks fine.
  4. Is power actually supplied to the heater through the firemans switch or is it just an open/close switch with no power supplied? 220v is supplied through the timer as power to the pump but does that go through the firemans switch also?
  5. OK. Pumps installed running at 220v. Issue resolved. Check out my new post. More electrical advice needed.
  6. I was told by the installer guys that it's a good idea to install a timer on the pump and heater so you don't to remember to turn them off. He added that the timer should have a fireman's switch on it to turn off the heater ahead of the pump. This will allow the heater to cool down a bit before the water pump shuts off. Is this necessary? I'm sure the heater has an overheat shutoff built in. My question is... is it worth spending the extra money for the firemans switch or should I just get the regular timer that shuts off the pump and heater at the same time? Thanks.
  7. I'm starting to setup my new Pentair pump/filter and I can go 110 or 220. What's the difference? (besides the wires & voltage) Is one any better than the other? Thanks,
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