Seahunt
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Posts
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Posts posted by Seahunt
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The filter tank likely has a max pressure rating of 30-50 psi, although your cartridges will crush long before that point. If the pressure used to be 5 after cleaning, and you can't get it below 12 now, it does indicate that there is debris present that's not being cleaned off. I would recommend a good cartridge cleaning solution to soak the cartridges in for 8 hours or so, then rinse well. Do not acid wash except as a last resort, as the acid will make all oils permanent. Oily substances occur naturally, in addition to the body oils and suntan oils that coat the cartridge elements as well. If you still can't get the pressure to go down, I wouldn't worry about it, unless you're seeing a big difference in the water circulation in your pool. At that point, replace the element/s.
You didn't mention how old your cartridges are. A good lifespan for a set of cartridges with average maintenance would be 3-5 years. Excellent maintenance can get much longer.
The cartridges are 7 years old.
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Hello everyone. I groused about how I screwed up my cartridges using Pool Magic and Phos Free. After several attempts to clean my cartridges of this stuff I'm concerned I may be at the point of no return. I know that generally you clean after PSI increased by 10lbs. However, is there a bench mark for which the PSI should not exceed. I used to be able to get it to around 5psi after cleaning. Now I can only get it down to around 10 and now it is at 12psi. Do you think the cartiridges are toast?
Thanks.
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I already groused about the fact that Pool Magic + Phos Free has clogged my cartridge filters. I have cleaned them twice and they need a third cleaning. What is the best product/solution to clean Pentair cartridge filters?
Thanks!
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I read the directions and added the stuff to the skimmer as it said. My Pentair cartidge filters immediately clogged and the pressure shot up. I turned it off and cleaned the filters. Two days later the pressure was again abnormally high. I again dismantled and cleaned the filters. Just a friendly warning if you plan to use this stuff. I'm sorry I did.
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How do I use what I have to drain the pool? I tried but worried I might do something wrong..
This is my attempt need your opinion:
Skimmer (off) / Vaccum (off) / Drain pool (on) / Injet (on) / Special (off) for water slide / Pump is on high. I see no progress....
It sounds like to have the right combo. By "Drain pool" I suspect this means the drains, in the bottom of the pool, are open. That is good as you will want to draw water from the bottom (not skimmers) to drain the pool. However, there should be a faucet, where you actually let the water out, in the plumbing somewhere. If you hook a hose to it (to get the water away from the pool/house) and turn it on, the water should come out.
I hope I have read your post right. If not, sorry.
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Generally speaking when it goes up by 8-10psi I think is a good benchmark. Mine usually starts around 3-5 so by the time it gets to 13-15 it's ready. Durning opening did you have you had to vacuum alot of debris and was algae present. I generally need to clean the filters not long after opening because of all the debris cleaned up from the pool sitting all winter.
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Fence required in MD.
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Happy New Year everyone. For the first 4 years I put chlorine in my skimmer baskets. Last year I had to use Liquid chlor. cause the CYA got too high. I want to make it easier to sanitize the pool. I know there are several systems (e.g., SWG, etc.). I have a 22k gal. in-ground concrete pool. What would be the best system to get so I can be releived of the daily chlorine chore?
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I have a mesh cover so I can't give you advice about that.
However, as for the pool level you should keep it below the tile. Ice around the tile can damage it. Also, put some empty clorox or other other bottles (with the lid on) in the skimmers. That way it displaces some of the water and when it does freeze, the bottle absorbs the expansion (versus your skimmer which can crack).
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I would ask the contractor that did the plaster. They usually leave instructions on properly curing the plaster. In addition, if you have problems, you will need to work with them to resolve.
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Basically, I believe you are getting algae (from what I read in your post) from inadequate chlorination. The other factor is your CYA (stabilizer) which you mentioned. If it is indeed 80PPM, then you need to maintain the chlorine at about 8PPM (10% of CYA). 10% of CYA is a little high but it needs to be a minimum of 7.5%. 10% is a good number cause it's easy to calculate and with as many times as you are getting algea, maybe starting a little conservative is not a bad thing.
The only way to reduce CYA is to remove water and re-fill. Remember, CYA is needed so you don't want it below 20PPM, for example. Around 50PPM is good but you can also work with 80 if you follow the guidelines as outlined above.
Read the following article, it has all the instructions in battling your algea and maintaining a clean pool. Let me know if you have any questions. You can do it!
http://www.troublefreepool.com/turning-you...asis-t4147.html
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Is it possible it is algae? For example, can you easily brush it off the walls or floor?
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I have a pentair cartridge filter so I'm not sure how similar they are. But....I have had several pressure valves leak. They are plastic. I find that if you screw the gage too far into the valve, it cracks the valve. Have replaced 2 of them in 5 years (at least they are cheap
)Good luck
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Not sure of your set-up so it hard to give adivce. Pictures always help.
I have heard disconnecting at the heater and placing the blower in the line at that point is a good idea. However, I don't have a heater so I don't have experience with this. I disconnected my return lines from the filter to connect the blower. Also, I got a fitting (from a plumbing store) that screwed in to the drain plug from the pump. I then connected this fitting to a compressor to blow the main drain. Your blower probably has enought power to do the main drain but my shop vac did not.
As a last bit of advice, I found lowering the water below the returns allowed me to not only "blow" the lines but I also vacuumed out any last bit of water. Did this for both returns and the skimmers.
Good luck.
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I have three gate valves. One for each skimmer and one for the main drain. To drain my pool for winterizing, I did close the skimmer valves and let the main drain do the work. Do you have valves you can shut off and see if it stops in the skimmers. Maybe then you could isolate the main drain line?
If not, how about plug your vacuum hose into the skimmer and put the vacuum head at the bottom of the pool to get the water out?
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Pentair Whisperflo Model: WFE-24
Thanks again.
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...you may want to invest in buying a threaded portion of the connection thats on your filter...
Do you know where to get one of these?
Thanks again Pathfinder. I don't mean to be such a nuicance but I was not happy with my performance blowing out the pipes last year so I just want to get it right.
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From your pic I would just disconnect from your filter and blow the lines from there. Your intake line I would make sure your pump lid is sealed and only do one line at a time. Now If you have a main drain. Your going to need compressed air or a bike pump works too. Anderson has the proper equipment you need check the link www.leaktools.com/products/pressure_induction/
Cool. Thanks! How about the connection from the shop vac to the plumbing pipes. What's the best way to connec them? Thanks again!
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Where would I connect the shop vac for the skimmer and return lines and the compressor for the main drain? Thanks.
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A shop vac wont have enough to blow the main drain. Check the anderson leak detection website for an open ended test plug 1 5/8 you can put your compressor to that for your main drain. For your returns i put the shop vac at any union connection after the heater then blow if one return line T's off the other then one will purge first. When this happens you will need to light plug it so the air can move over to the other return. One that is fully purged then return to the first one and open it up until you have no more water. With the skimmers I blow from the pool equipment then suck the remainder out at the skimmer.
I don't have a heater. Here is a picture. Where would I connect the shop vac:
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I have always used a shop vac with a blow feature 4 peak hp or bigger.(Just bought a new Rigid 6.5peakhp with detachable blower closed 4 ingrounds so far and im impressed) Shop vacs push the volume of air necessary to properly remove all the water from the lines especially if there are dips in the lines underground. If you live in a non freezing area and not worried about getting all of the water from your lines then I guess a compressor would be sufficient. The way I see it your using an airstream the size of a straw to push out water in a 1.5-2"pipe with a compressor. Shop vac hose about 1.5".
Thanks Pathfinder. I see your point. Where would you recommend I connect the shop vac. In the past I have connected the compressor to the pump drain port. I have two skimmer lines, two return lines, and one main drain line (with two drains). Is the shop vac also strong enough to blow the main drain?
Thanks again.
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a compressor will not give you the volume needed to properly remove the water in your lines. A compressor should only be used for the main drain, slide or waterfeature line.
Really? Hmm. I swear I saw the pool co. using a small one to blow the lines? So, what should I use?
Thanks for the feedback.
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Does anyone know where to get an attachment that will let you screw your compressor into the pool pump winterizing drain hole? Want to use it to blow out the pipes.
Thanks!
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Hello everyone. This is my first post. What brings me here is that i have a 15k Gal inground concrete pool. I currently see some staining on the bottom and sides of the pool. the stains are a green color. I tried 2 gal of acid (muriatic) and nothing. I also tried to brush it and nothing also. I am curious to know if any of you encounter this problem and know how to approach it. Thanks.
Gerry
Is it a new stain or has it been there for a while? Is the water cloudy? How old is the pool? What kind of filter (cartridge, DE, etc.) do you have? Is the pump running at least 8 hours per day? What part of the country are you in? Is there anything that was recently added to the water or fell in the pool that could have stained it? Did you recently have a storm? It could be green algae. Two gallons of Muriatic acid is going to significantly affect the PH of your pool It would be helpful if you could post the numbers for your water such as:
PH
FC
Alk
Ch
CYA
Pentair Clean And Clear Plus Pressure
in All Swimming Pools Types
Posted
Yea, sigh. Thanks for the feedback!