Seahunt
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Posts
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Posts posted by Seahunt
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Cool. Thanks Scott!
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What is the best way to remove or lighten it? Thanks! It's a plaster pool.
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I was at the pool store picking up some stuff and I overheard an employee ask some new pool owners "How old is your pool water?" Without trying to laugh I thought, oh god where is this going. She told them pool water only lasts 8-10 years then need to be replaced. Really???!! I had to bite my lip but if it is true, the jokes on me.
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Cool. Thanks Scott!
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Many times by the time I get home from work the pump has turned off. Can you test the water with the pump off or do I have to turn it on and let it circulate for a while to get an accurate reading?
Thanks.
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Ok. I will post results when I can but the pool is not yet open. As for last year, I tried to raise FC every day to 10% of of CYA. My CYA ran from 40 at the beginning of the year to around 80/90 when I closed it. Does this sound correct?
For eliminating the black algea, what is the best method? I've heard it is quite a fight. I'm thinking the brushing and laying trichlor right on the spot (since it is on the botton at the deep end) might be the best method.
Thanks again. Will be opening the pool first of May.
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Ok thanks. The pool is not yet open as I took these pictures last summer. What do you recommend?
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I have somewhere around 6 or 8 of these in my deep end. It is a 10 year old plaster pool. They are concave (e.g., a little crater) and will not brush off. Thanks.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f285/schmity1/R1-01509-014A.jpg
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I've always had good luck (price and inventory wise) at Leslie Pool. However, I have a store near me but know they are on-line as well.
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A 6" perforated pipe would need to be about 10 to 15 inches, slightly pitched. The length needed will determine if the high point is on an end or in the middle and if one or two leaders are needed to carry away the collected water. A pitch of 1 inch per 5 feet would give you an effective maximum length of 50 feet. A 1" per 6 foot run would give you 60 feet. Beyond that, it's tough to get the water to flow to the leader that carries the collected water away in any kind of volume. Vent the leader near where it meets the drainage pipe.
Scott
Well id did it and boy am I sore. I sure hope when I take the cover off next spring there is no grout dripping down the tile anymore. Thanks again for the help! I'll report results in the spring
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With a slope rising up from the pool, a drain should be installed to carry run off away from the pool.
A trench with a couple inches of gravel, some perforated pipe for capturing, covered with landscape fabric to keep the rocks out, and another piece of pipe leading down hill and away from the pool, will do wonders for alleviating water source causing the problem.
Scott
What depth would the trench need to be to be effective? Also, the trench would need to run on top of the pool plumbing in one area. Do you think this could increase any risk associated with freezing? I live in Annapolis Maryland. Thanks again!
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I have a 10 year old plaster pool. I read another thread about rust showing through and getting it replasterd. I have some new rust colored stains (size of a dime) in the deep end of my pool. I noticed them cause they did not vacuum or brush away. Swam down and they are almost like small "divits" with rist color in the bottom. Am I nearing the end of the plaster life?
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Well, must have been bad reading on my part. A couple more rainstorms and not a huge drop as I indicated. Thought it was weird. Thanks for the feedback.
Oh, and on the flight path, that is interesting. The planes to BWI airport do go over our house. I haven't noticed the streaks on the gutters but boy is it on the white fiberglass boats at the marina!
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With a slope rising up from the pool, a drain should be installed to carry run off away from the pool.
A trench with a couple inches of gravel, some perforated pipe for capturing, covered with landscape fabric to keep the rocks out, and another piece of pipe leading down hill and away from the pool, will do wonders for alleviating water source causing the problem.
Scott
Awesome! Thanks again Scott!
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Wow! Great information. The pool does have a very small hill on one side and yes, that is where the grout "leaks" can be seen. I have been taking it off with muriatic acid and boy is that stuff nasty. At least maybe I can stop driving myself (and you guys) crazy trying to balance the water, etc. It's just hard to stand by and watch the grout dissapear and eventually the tile to fall off.
Thanks again for all the info!
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is your grout white? Is it possible that your "bleeding" is ground water seeping through and bringing calcium with it?
Thanks. Yes, the grout is white. I am starting to think the same thing. A few years ago I did add "backing rod" and caulk to the area between the coping and the pool deck. It's not water tight. Could it be coming in there an out through the tile? If so, should the area between the coping and pool deck be water tight?
Thanks again.
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I usually try to reach down arms length to get a sample. I guess one data point does not prove or disprove a hypothesis. I'll keep an eye on the weather and run another test. I thought that drop was huge.
Thanks for the feedback.
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I live in MD. Have a 22K gallon plaster pool (10 years old). I use liquid bleach so the PH tends to drift up. Tested the water and PH is at 7.8. Go in the shed and I am out of liquid acid so I put it on the shopping list for tomorrow. We have a rainstorm that night and the next day I go to put the acid in and test the water and the PH is at 7.2. Wow, the rain dropped the PH that much! Don't remember rain affecting PH that much in the past. I wonder if our rain is getting more acidic? Just curious.
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Ok, I did as suggested and bumped up the TA and got the PH right. Current readings are:
FC - 5
CYA - 50
TA - 80
CH - 250
PH - 7.5
I can see the tile grout is still "bleeding." The pool is 10 years old. Is there anything else I can or should do?
Thanks!
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Every year when I remove my cover there are large "drips" of tile grout effluence. It happens slowly over the summer as well. Last year, I set the calcium hardness at 250.
This year the opening numbers were:
CH - 170
PH - 7.8
TA - 70
CYA - 50
FC - 5
I raised the CH to 250 after opening. I am using liquid chlorine. It is an inground plaster pool. Anything else I should do to try to keep the effluence from happening? I'm afraid the tile will eventually fall off.
Thanks!
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I assume you have skimmers? I recommend using your brush to stir any chemicals that may collect on the bottom until you get the drain fixed.
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Sweet! Thanks!
Hayward makes a plastic one. Part number SP-1419T. Wing Master makes a metal one. No idea what the PN is though.
Scott
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Hello. I need the "key" or tool for removing installing the return jet "eyeball." It fits in two small notches on each side of the collar that holds the "eyeball" return jet in place. I have been using two small screwdrivers but I am damaging the collar, etc.
Thanks in advance!
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I want to put a couple of small panels between my pool pump and the pool to reduce the noise. I have some plants and a small landscaping fence but i want something that will really block the sound. Anyone know of anything?
Thanks.
Pool Tile - Diy?
in All Swimming Pools Types
Posted
The tile on my 10 year old pool is falling off. I believe it is because the seal between the coping and the pool deck failed (my bad) letting water in which over the years would freeze and break the tiles loose.
My question is, is replacing the pool tile on a concrete pool a DIY job? It has two rows of 4" tile between the plaster and the coping that I would replace.
Thank in advance.