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Your better off replacing with a Balboa VS series or a hydroquip pack. These guys here are really good for Balboa Packs. http://www.cedartubs.com/electric-spa-heater.html

The 1/4 inch won't be bad if the filter area is on the side with lowest point on the pad. We have done this and never had a problem. Also think about air circulation if going in the screened porch. It will make alot of moisture

by accident did you get anything wet inside?

keys is out of buisness. If you can describe what the buttons are and the names I could find you a manual maybe. Does it have Mode, temp up and down and jets 1 jets 2

I agree with mark. On the installation side it should take long since cartridge filters do not use a multiport valve.

here in pa we have steel, cement, and fiberglass walled pools installed. The bottom line is the installer and the job they do. We have always done the steel wall pools which are faster to build than cement and never had a problem with any. If a pool is installed correct you should not have any problems. I would think stainless steel panels in the long run would outlast cement being in contact with the ground, but again I do not know what they do to the cement walls to protect them.

look at Polaris pool cleaners. They have a good supply of cleaners. http://polarispools.com/poolcleaners/default.aspx suction cleaners hook up to skimmer pressure cleaner hook into returns.

It's ok to run it dry? no it is not wise to run a pump dry for more than a few seconds. It will damage the seal and maybe the wet end. You are going to have to remove the impeller from the motor shaft first. Then you can let it run as long as you like

Assuming that there is a pump to operate the waterfall already. Any small above ground pool filter system would do it. Hayward and Pentair both make systems were everything comes in a box http://www.haywardnet.com/aboveground/prod...unt_Systems.cfm Of course these are not self priming and need to lower than water level. However the Pentair Sand Dollar system comes with a self priming pump and Hayward makes a cheaper self priming pump also Power Flo 2

I have been selling the Hayward tigershark with good responses from customerso. Polaris also a pool cleaner company just came out with one. Aquabot is also a common cleaner. Did the builder leave any plumbing options for a pressure cleaner like Polaris 380 or 3900?

I would have to think it was more of the dealer taking care of his customer more than Watkins doing anything. They just now released a service procedure to fix the light problems as stated above.

It might be a check valve. Some spas have them installed I have told to replace them when faulty or leave it out. If your has one replace it. A check valve has a rubber flap or spring loaded device to keep the water from going the other direction. look for the word FLOW with a arrow on it. Most are white but some are like a smoke or blue color you can see in. here is link to a picture of one http://www.horizonparts.net/store/main.asp...tem=26-350-1090

On the pump motor is a label which would tell you the voltage the pump runs off of 120 or 230. You can direct connect the pump for testing if you like just follow the diagram on the label. Those old pump motors are built like tanks. It is prob OK. Motors either run or don't run. If you see smoke from the motor turn off the spa. I am guessing what is happening is the electronics are trying to get the motor to run on low and high speed at the same time. The motor can't do it. If you want you can remove the wire that goes to the high speed terminel in the back of the motor. Put some electrical tape on it and see if it will run on low. I most of the time can get the new packs installed in about a hour. It all depends on the tech. You would have to call around for labor rates they are all different

Most Sundance spas do not have shut off valves, so it must be drained. Pumps are hels in by 2 or 4 bolts at the base. Take the unions off and remove the pump. Does it still run? If so it may just be a broken impeller or clogged impeller. Either way you would still need to pull the pump for inspection

If the shell and plumbing are still in good shape and hold water. Yes you can just upgrade the controls systems or replace parts that do not work.

2 part Devcon epoxy sold at lowes or a repair kit from D1 Spas.

The new 2010 models are using the same control system as the Hot spring line except it is has a simpler topside control mount to top of the shell. They also have the same pumps installed. My personal opinion is I like them better than the bigger Hot spring line of spas. They are nice product and never had a complaint from customers who bought them. Wet Test one and see what you think

That one from amazon is for a Hayward Heater. Here is a 25 amp rated switch http://store.poolcenter.com/shared/StoreFr...ELAID=425473897

Witch make was it?

Has anyone seen one in action or have one installed. Interested how its working

Installing A second timer will not do any good. Most times the air leak is located above the ground. It could be any glued, threaded fittings, valves orings, strainer pot lid oring. even a pump seal.

The brackets are not that big and have holes to fasten to surfaces. If you don't mind you can leave the brackets out from the spa. Otherwise I would wait until the spa is empty and alot of times you use a rubber mallet to get them under the spa. i do not recommend any type of prying device. It could break the frame

That is a good idea you have. There are pressure switches rated at 25 amps. Look at spa parts places, since most pressure switches are for the most part pilot duty it might need to be ordered. Another problem is while the pool pump is priming and is surging water and or air while priming it could cause the pressure switch to close and then open right away. Which will alot of stress on the contacts and the booster pump. You really should have a electronic countdown timer installed to the booster pump from starting until the pool pump is at full prime. Instead of going through all this why not find out why the pool pump loses its prime. It should not do this or should recover very quick no matter how long the pool sat. Find were air is leaking in the system. They only other option is a pool control system

I have also seen the backwash from a salt pool kill some vegatation mostly arba vida

If you are going to use the under tub mount brackets, they mount to the the surface the spa sits on. Not the spa cabinet. These are easy to install because you can put it all together before mounting anything. There is tons of adjustment in the lifter and if putting it together you have no need to worry about corner radius. If you going for the bracket that mounts to the spa cabinet from either the covermate 1 or 2. Get a helper to hold a straight object on the back panel of the spa that goes past the corner and measure off of that to find proper location for the bracket