JOSH D
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Posts posted by JOSH D
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The newer, past couple of years, Hayward skimmers have a 'knock-out' inside the body of them so that one can install an overflow line - if the pool water ever gets high enough to reach the knockout , it just drains out of the pool (as long as the hole isn't blocked. I've seen other pools with what looks like a regular return plumbed in high on the wall (like in the tile line) to do the same thing. These are passive measures (no pump or sensor required) they work just like the overflow preventer in your bathtub.
I examined the skimmer box for exactly such a thing before I posted - if my skimmer has a knockout, it's still intact. As it turns out, my pool did fill to the very bottom of the liner bead a few nights ago during heavy rains - so I think my builder was blowing smoke. I dropped a section of old garden hose into the pool and siphoned off about 5 inches overnight. But thanks for the reply.
wow you don't have a backwash valve. thats one way to get rid of it plus your super cleaning the filter. if you do have a filter that can backwash then do so until desired level is reached. if not that pool bulider should have installed an overflo drain along the tile line. "what are they doing in miss" wow texas codes says drain it into the sewer via the filter backwash.
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We originally thought that the appropriate CYA level would be roughly in the 30-50 ppm range due to the "bang for your buck" protection effect of CYA since a little does provide a lot of protection of chlorine from breakdown by UV in sunlight. This graph shows that the chlorine half-life (how long it takes for half of the chlorine to break down) is mostly increased up to around 20-30 ppm with diminishing returns above that (the X-axis is logarithmic). However, some careful experiments by a pool owner here showed that there is an additional protection effect from CYA in the range of 50-80 ppm that is beyond what my graph showed. My graph was based solely on the theoretical amount of disinfecting chlorine that is unprotected vs. chlorine bound to CYA (chlorinated isocyanurates) that is protected (still breaks down, but more slowly). Apparently, there is an additional effect and we don't know for sure what it is but I suspect it's related to CYA's direct absorption of sunlight that protects lower depths in the water from the UV rays of the sun -- that is, a "shielding" effect. For this effect to show up as dramatically as it does in the experiment, the water near the surface must not be well circulated, so I'm not sure this is the correct explanation. Nevertheless, the effect is real and means that even having a proportionately higher FC with the higher CYA to keep the same disinfecting chlorine level, the higher CYA makes the chlorine last significantly longer.
So the bottom line is that having a CYA in the 60-80 ppm range (especially 70-80 ppm) shows a large protective effect. With manually dosed pools, this is a bit risky since you have to make sure you don't let the FC level drop below 7.5% of the CYA level, or around 6 ppm for 80 ppm CYA, since fighting an algae bloom at the higher CYA level requires more chlorine (around 32 ppm FC shock level). For an SWG pool, the risk is lower due to the automatic dosing and the FC level can be lower as well compared to manually dosed pools due not only to automatic chlorination that is more stable but due to super-chlorination of part of the water that passes through the SWG cell. So the minimum FC level in an SWG pool is around 4.5% of the CYA level so for 80 ppm CYA that's around 3.6 ppm. The 1-3 ppm FC is incorrect and we've seen many SWG pools at 1 ppm and 2 ppm FC and 70-80 ppm CYA develop algae.
The main reason to have the higher CYA level in an SWG pool is to lower the SWG on-time. This makes the SWG cell last longer, but also reduces the amount of aeration that causes carbon dioxide to outgas from the pool and causes the pH to rise. SWG cells produce hydrogen gas bubbles that aerate the water.
Interestingly, when we contacted virtually every manufacture of SWG system, none of them could properly explain the reason for the higher CYA level except generically that it let you lower SWG on-time (i.e. they didn't know why or they varied in their explanations). Originally I came up with a theory about CYA making the SWG cell more efficient by combining with the generated chlorine, but that is clearly not the correct explanation as the experiments showed.
Richard
the reason (straight from the CPO book they tell you 30-50 is cause tri-chlor adds it and bathers remove it via swimsuits and evaporations, or leaks. to much cya leads to mustard algea pool 101
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My sundance spa was hot and now is luke warm...about 92.. the heater is new in the last few months,, any suggestions????
if the main circulation pump is blocked and the filters are not clean the you should see a low flo or in your case a lowered temp. break the unions apart at the pump and see if the impeller is blocked or impedded. always close the slice valves 1st and shut system off (electricaly) or the obvious would to be to set the spa side control up to 104 degrees. the low speed side of the pump will bring the temp down lower after (non-use) often resetting the control to max ie 104 will correct this issue. If that does not solve the issue then check the temp sensor in the well. use a hand held themostat to very degree.
josh d lead tech
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pro answer first off liquid shock is only 46% booooo cal-hypo is 87% from factory and 67% once it hits the shelf. swimtrine is a copperbased algeacide. shocking and adding a copper based algea side together is this (the copper will fall out of solution) usually staining the pool finsh black (spotted). Use a metal out to reduce algeacide, also a little bit of swimtrine goes a loooooooooooooooonnnnnnnnnnggggg way follow the instructions on the bottle to the tee.
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10 year pro here. alot of "electricians specialize in residential housing. I agree it sounds like there is no bonding or a break somewhere on the bonding. if it cannot complete the circuit (ie break in line) the yes you the humaan become the ground. STAY OUT OF POOL UNTIL RESOLVED>
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I have never rebuilt it (4years old). I saw a guy on youtube overhauling one. I guess I get the parts at the local pool store. Or do you know of a on line source?
Thanks,
Joey
yes my#is 469-233-8365 call me
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Hi
I have a 20,000 gallon vinyl lined pool. The problem I'm having is cloudy dull water with slight algae that is very difficult to brush off. A couple days ago my TA was was over 200 and pH was I think about 7.4. Messing around with it (mostly just adding HCl) I have gotten my TA down to about 160-170 but my pH is about 6.8.
Some other information:
CYA: 60ppm
TDS: 1000ppm
As it stands I'm trying to balance out the pH and TA by disconnecting my sweep and taking the hose for it out of the pool and shooting it back into the pool in an arc to try and aerate the water pulling CO2 out via concentration gradient to the air. How long does something like this take? I did it for about 8 hours yesterday and it's been going another 8 hours today and I haven't noticed much of a result with my drop based TA and pH test kit. Water is still cloudy and dull.
I have tried blue clarifier and shock to no avail. I am using granulated chlorine (Chlor-Brite I think?) to sanitize.
I don't know if I'll ever be able to get my pH and TA in check, and even if I do, I don't even know for sure if it will solve my dull cloudy water problem.
common vinly pool promblem here. easy fix. you can flock the pool w/ a fluctant agent following directions and the flock. some flocks will need 4-6 hrs circulation the shut the pool off and let the flock settle to the bottom. then vac the flock up and backwash the filter so the flock won't set up inside the filter. follow the direction on the flock. this should clear the pool up. once the pool is clear the TA should correct itself. and since the TA contols the PH the PH should fall into balance after the pool is clear.
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Hi
I have a 20,000 gallon vinyl lined pool. The problem I'm having is cloudy dull water with slight algae that is very difficult to brush off. A couple days ago my TA was was over 200 and pH was I think about 7.4. Messing around with it (mostly just adding HCl) I have gotten my TA down to about 160-170 but my pH is about 6.8.
Some other information:
CYA: 60ppm
TDS: 1000ppm
As it stands I'm trying to balance out the pH and TA by disconnecting my sweep and taking the hose for it out of the pool and shooting it back into the pool in an arc to try and aerate the water pulling CO2 out via concentration gradient to the air. How long does something like this take? I did it for about 8 hours yesterday and it's been going another 8 hours today and I haven't noticed much of a result with my drop based TA and pH test kit. Water is still cloudy and dull.
I have tried blue clarifier and shock to no avail. I am using granulated chlorine (Chlor-Brite I think?) to sanitize.
I don't know if I'll ever be able to get my pH and TA in check, and even if I do, I don't even know for sure if it will solve my dull cloudy water problem.
common vinly pool promblem here. easy fix. you can flock the pool w/ a fluctant agent following directions and the flock. some flocks will need 4-6 hrs circulation the shut the pool off and let the flock settle to the bottom. then vac the flock up and backwash the filter so the flock won't set up inside the filter. follow the direction on the flock. this should clear the pool up. once the pool is clear the TA should correct itself. and since the TA contols the PH the PH should fall into balance after the pool is clear.
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Our in ground pool was installed in 1971. We've owned the pool for 3 years. My question is about the coping. I've never seen coping like this. It appears to be steel, which is painted white yearly. Some of the coping had begun to rust and flake, and when getting our liner replaced, we inquired about how to repair it. The standard answer from all pool companies we got was "you guys are the only people in this city with this type of pool". To replace the coping was going to cost $13000 while pouring a new concrete deck, although ours is fairly new. Another co. suggested TruTile, which we couldn't use because of the location of our skimmer. In the end, we removed the damaged pieces of steel, had them fabricated to length and width of aluminum at a metal shop, and installed them ourselves. It appears to have worked great, according to the pool companies that have been back out. Has anyone seen this type of pool before? I have googled myself silly, and can't find any info. The local pool companies can't tell me anything either, only that they don't make pools like this anymore. Other than cosmetics, such as the piece or two that we replaced, and the old liner, we've had absolutely no problems with this pool. I am attaching a picture of one of the sides of the pool. I hope you can see what I'm describing. Those white strips of steel are flush with the edge of the concrete. There is no over hang. This was last summer, pre liner replacement, pre coping replacement. Currently, our old liner is in pieces in our pool as we wait the delivery of the new one. What kind of pool IS this?
you could re-seal it and paint mosaic tiles. Look at it like this you get the exact tile you want even if it isn't avavilable.
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What is the stained area made out of (liner, white plaster...)? How widespread is the effected area? You can use ascorbic acid (vitamin C) to treat and remove small stains, if it's widespread, all the water may have to be treated and a sequestriant added to keep the metal from just falling back out of the water.
although you no its a metal (test w/ jacks magic tester its a 4 part test designed to target the exact metal. Vac the pool and cln the filter ASAP. after using the jacks magic id test follow the jacks magic program to remove unwanted stains. cuping the stains with muratic acids works to remove stains (plaster pools)ONLY!! beware of lowering the chemical balance in a plaster pools if you take the acid route. although the pool will be crystal clear it will also be very acidic until you rebalance. keep everyone out of the [pool] until you correct the balance.
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Hello, I am new here and have a question. I have a Hayward super pump sp-1605z1-m 3/4HP
volts 115/230. I need to replace the motor. Where is the best place to purchase and what type?
Thanks for any help!
Michelle
depends on the filter. often times pump motors are overrated. if you have a small filter than replace the motor with the same 3/4hp. you can buy a full rated motor w an uped service factor of 1.25 or greater this equals about another .25 hp giving you a 1hp for the price of the 3/4hp. if the motor or pump was underrated--for instance you have a larger sgft. filter like 400sgft. cartridge or a fns 60 de than you may want to bump up the hp to something like a 1.5 or 2.0. Beware if you increase the hp more than the full rate you will need to change the impeller and diffuser as well.
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I am redoing my pool and adding a spa. It's color will be French Grey (if that matters or anyone is familiar with it). The cost difference between white lights and colored lights is $700 (includes both). Does this difference seem reasonable? Are colored lights really any better (after the first summer's "wow that's cool" factor)? In case it matters, I assume the lights would be Jandy (300W for spa and 500W for pool) as that's what my pool builder is using for most of the other equipment.
Also, the current specs call for a Jandy Aqualink RS8 one-touch with spa side remote control (one control inside and a simpler controller outside). I think this is a pretty expensive controller. Any suggestions as to how I could save a few bucks here? I don't know how important it is for me to be able to turn my spa on from inside (it's only 15' from my side door).
Thanks in advance for suggestions.
the sam light for the pool (pentair) and the sal light (pentair) are good lights although don't be oversold on the RS8. the sam and sal lights are actually on a recepical switch often installed seperate from the RS8 8= eight relays for eight different functions. each relay or has a function 1=pump 2=booster pump 3=aux(whatever you have more ie heater) 4 aux again if you have another function 5=aux again you get the point if you only have 4 functions then alls you need is an RS4. so if you have 8 functions that power of 240/120 volts than you would by an RS8 only count the lights if there standard 300watt(non color) or 500watt pool light (non-color) Also theres more lighting and better effects with the hayward soon the be released 3.0 hayward color logic. They go as far as having multiply light shows ie (football colors for parties) ect. the lighting works with the hayward pro logic automation. Do more research although I like Jandy too there is other automation especially if lighting in the pool is your focus.
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I have a polaris 280 (?). The tail does not whip any more. Is it due to low pressure? The unit has developed a problem of getting stuck in "corners" of my non square pool.
Any wisdom?
Thanks,
Joey65
This is usually a sign of the 280 giving up. The back up unit is most likely non functioning and the polaris is serioulsy overdue for a tune up. If the unit has been rebuilt already buy a new one. there is a set screw above the tail whip you can screw it in more for more action. and pull the head float back for more crawling action. If upgrading the 480 is the way to go!
Help! Need Skimmer Help!
in All Swimming Pools Types
Posted
use a 2 part expoxy (pool) the come in blk and white or you can melt some pvc w/thinner and create a glue its messy but it works!
the 2 part will have to be water free when repairing it. then set 48 hours