coilerman

I want to add a pump and heater timer. Attached is a photo of my heater/pump circuit breaker - it's the one on top (double pole). I want to order the timer that switches off the heater 20 minutes before the pump to avoid overheating problems. On each pole on the breaker, I have a red and a black wire. Is it correct to assume that the two reds go to the pump and the two blacks go to the heater (or vice versa)? That is, each circuit has it's own color and they share the breaker.

Not just possibly, it is certainly custom. From what I can see the installer worked cleanly but I'm not as sure about how close to code he worked. There are two relays, a 110 to 12/24 stepdown transformer, a 4 amp circuit breaker and 110v outlet into which is plugged a remote control receiver. I can't see the specifics of the wiring and I'm not certain of the function of the two relays but this is what I would do: - Check for 110 at the outlet, correct if missing then - Check for the remote receiver functioning by measuring voltage across the two output screw terminals. Voltage should be present when off, and zero when on. If no voltage in either state check it again by removing one of the wires and check for resistance when switched on and off. When remote on resistance should be near zero, when remote off it should be infinite. fix it it it's bad. Then - Check the input of the transformer with the remote on. It should be getting 110v, possibly also when the remote is off. I can't say anything else from here because the photo is not detailed enough to tell, and I'm not certain what the relays do. From the look of the box I'd say it has some years on it and a bit of weathering but it also looks like a weather-tight enclosure so the weathering shouldn't be too much a problem. Thanks for the detailed reply. Now what would require a 12/24v supply? The heater? Edit: I think I answered my own question - it's the underwater pool lights.

There is nothing but the name and model number for the enclosure. It it possible that this wiring box is custom?

I have a Hayward H series pool and spa gas heater and it started up just fine this spring but now it doesn't seem to turn off and will not change modes. When I turn off the power button, it just stays on. The Pool button is lit. When I try to put it into Standby, the mode button has no effect. I know I was able to put it in Standby when I started up the heater a few weeks ago. But now, nothing. To turn off the heater, I have to flip the circuit breaker. Any thoughts on what may be wrong?

I have an inground pool and spa with gas heater. The spa is controlled remotely using an X-10 transmitter and receiver. I'm trying to do some electrical troubleshooting and trying to figure out what is in this box. I get the Leviton X-10 receiver. But what is the device labelled "Marcus"? And the other two wiring blocks - are they relays? Can anyone tell me how this all works together to control my spa?

I have a concrete/gunite pool and spa. I noticed this spring that some of the coating on the spa has flaked off. I'm not sure of what to call this coating. It's basically the smooth outside coating for the concrete. Skim coat? Plaster? It's a very small area and I was wondering if this is a recommended DIY job? If so, what product do I use to re-apply the coating? I was thinking of pressure washing to blast off any loose coating before applying the new coat. Is this the correct procedure? Thanks.

The TA is actually too low right now. It's at 60ppm. My pool is gunite so I read in another pool that dry acid is not good for plaster pools. No details as to why but since my pool company uses muriatic acid, I thought I should too. My ph is high (8.0+) and when I lower it with dry acid, it keeps going back up a few days later. This is why I think my TA is too low. I'm going to buy a case of baking soda to try to get it up to 80ppm. Funny but the pool maintenance manual my pool company left me never mentions TA. But, I have read everywhere that it is key to having stable ph.

I have the same problem. I have grackles that like to crap in and around the pool. I ignore them and scrub the droppings every once in a while. I look at it this way - a couple of drops of bird poop in a 20,000 gallon tub of water - what's it going to do? Not much. Too diluted. If you really want to solve the problem, there are two ways - 1) a bird chasing dog or cat 2) string fishing line around the perimeter of the pool. The fishing line prevents the birds from landing but might prevent you from enjoying the pool. Plastic owls don't work. Trust me.

Any Canadians here? I use a lot of muriatic acid in my pool and feel I'm getting overcharged by the pool company, mainly because they sell it in small jugs only. Anyone know a cheap source for the big (4/5 gallon) jugs? I called Lowes and Home Depot and neither carries it.

Reading this with some interest because I also have a gunite pool with SWG. Am I reading this correctly - that low TA is normal for a SWG pool? If so, how low? My TA immediately after spring opening is 60ppm. I was going to run out to buy some baking soda to raise that to at least 80ppm but now I'm reading in this post that low TA is normal. Also, this is the first time I am hearing that sodium bisulfate is bad for plaster/gunite pools. Do you have any details on this? Thanks.